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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
Clonk Gone
There are a lot of posts on here about clonking when taking up the drive and often the answer is said to be the A frame fulcrum.
My last Landy had it and I lived with it for years then may latest TDCI had it and I thought I just can't stand it any more. Even though I couldn't pry any movement in the joint I bit the bullet and swapped it for a new one pre-mounted on the casting. What a difference! It's not too difficult to swap and now I think why did I wait all the time. Moral is, got a clonk on take off, don't put up with having to nurse it away from junctions, go swap that joint.
Post #405106 6th Mar 2015 7:34pm
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redzob



Member Since: 16 Jul 2014
Location: St. Peter Port
Posts: 137

Guernsey 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
Interesting post - can you provide more details?

thanks! Thumbs Up Defender Puma 2.2 XS 90
Vespa GTS 300
Way too many racing bikes.
Post #405107 6th Mar 2015 7:37pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
Not too much to say, horrible clonk on taking up drive which I originally thought was drive train slack but half shafts and driving members plus heavier oil in diffs didn't improve. So, bought the Britpart joint on a casting so disn't need a press. Jack the chassis up six inches leaving wheels on ground to enable a spanner on the big nut (or on a 110 ispanner hits the fuel tank) undo big nut and two bolts and replace. That's it. No more clonk and the little bit slack that is naturally in a Landy drive train doesn't actually make any noise, it's the joint that makes the noise.
Post #405150 6th Mar 2015 8:59pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
+1

I did mine a few weeks back and swapped it for the Britpart extra articulation adjustable one. Also have lost the clunk.

It's a simple job but I did have to grind a socket down to fit perfect as there's a lot of torque in that main nut.

On the first photo, you can see the main nut and on the left next to the exhaust, two of the 4 bolts on the A-Frame which attaches to the fulcrum. The other 2 are on the other side.



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #405185 6th Mar 2015 10:25pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I didn't consider grinding down a socket as I found that I could get a big ring spanner on it once I had jacked the chassis up, and I then whacked the spanner with a copper mallet to get it going and to tighten the new one. Anyway, it's a pretty easy DIY job if you have a tool for the big nut.
Post #405238 7th Mar 2015 9:38am
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6266

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I know you get it any way to an extent but did this solve any of the horse cart type suspension (bang clatter) you get when driving along over small pot holes with no weight in the back?
Post #406853 12th Mar 2015 11:20am
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Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
That sounds like the rattly brake pad syndrome? Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #406861 12th Mar 2015 12:02pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I've got rattley brakes at back but am going to try new pins and springs. It seems that works sometimes.
I think that the more modern 110s have too high rear tyre pressures. On my old 110 it was 48 for towing now it's 48 for normal and 65 for towing. It makes anything rattle.
Post #406909 12th Mar 2015 2:28pm
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SimonDavies



Member Since: 15 Mar 2012
Location: Swansea
Posts: 244

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
When you say the ball joint pre mounted on the bracket, do you mean like this .. http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html

Also, what mileages are you guys changing these at? I have the symptoms but my truck has been doing it from around 32k miles.
Post #407043 12th Mar 2015 9:34pm
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Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Yes, but I went for the new adjustable and extra articulation one.

http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-brack...ation.html

As for mileage, I guess there's loads of different variables that contribute to wear rate but 32K mileage isn't too surprising if it is that.

You can check it by either removing it or get a long bar and lever the A Frame to see if there's any excessive movement. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #407046 12th Mar 2015 9:41pm
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SimonDavies



Member Since: 15 Mar 2012
Location: Swansea
Posts: 244

Wales 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Zambezi Silver
I think I'll get it off over the weekend to have a good look. I have been living with it for quite some time now so it wouldnt hurt. Thanks for the swift reply.
Post #407047 12th Mar 2015 9:44pm
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Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Once it's off, you might think that there's nothing wrong with it as the ball joint isn't loose. However when you wiggle the main pin, there should be a lot of friction and not move easily.

Whichever new one you get, you'll probably have a grease nipple on there make sure that it's been filled with grease. I couldn't really tell on mine so I put some in there anyway. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #407050 12th Mar 2015 9:51pm
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Nevillerover



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 224

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black
I didn't get movement with a pry bar but as you say, once it's off, if it moves easily its knackered. The new ones are very stiff.
I didn't see a grease nipple, I'm sure there isn't one on a standard replacement.
Post #407055 12th Mar 2015 10:06pm
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Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I maybe only the adjustable ones that have the nipple. Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #407059 12th Mar 2015 10:10pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6266

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
talking about using a pry bar.....

I presume you can see some movement by just pushing up on the A frame (albeit not very much) using your hands?


I'm pretty sure the knocking / clatter I'm talking about isn't the brake pads albeit it's not all the time.

Also when pulling off do / did you sometimes get the feeling of the suspension 'sitting down'.....a bit like if you were doing a max speed pulling away from lights in rear wheel sports car....the suspension kind of sits down onto the tarmac just before you get forward movement?
Post #407067 12th Mar 2015 10:32pm
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