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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3755

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
"Melting" Rear Left Mudflap, Defender 90.
We've now had our 90 just under a year & have travelled around 10,000ks.
A problem with Aussie Defenders is that the exhausts exits to the rear of the vehicle via a cutout in the mudflap. The mudflap, at speeds of over 90KPH, is pushed up by the airflow into the path of hot exhaust gases causing the mudflap to "melt" around the cutout area of the mudflap.
We have some long distances in Aus, where you can sit on 90/100ks for hours, during which period the mudflap is continually in the path of hot exhaust gases!
I guess none of you have had this issue, because your exhaust exits to the left side?
Pickles.
Post #369626 5th Nov 2014 12:27am
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2726

United Kingdom 
Not sure I follow you? We're RHD same as you, so yes our exhaust is on the left but isn't yours also?

I've never seen it but maybe it's just because it's not hot enough here? Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #369630 5th Nov 2014 12:38am
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3755

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
Aussie exhaust does not curve around to the side of the vehicle. It exits staight out the rear, through a cutout in the mudflap. At cruising speeds, the mudflap is forced into a more horizontal position by the airflow, placing the mudflap in line with the hot exhaust causing the rubber to melt!
Pickles.
Post #369636 5th Nov 2014 4:08am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5430

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Click image to enlarge


This is how a uk 90 exhaust sits.

Andy
Post #369646 5th Nov 2014 8:16am
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
Without modifying the exhaust the only solution is to stiffen up the Mudflap. Removing mud flaps would be a bit antisocial on gravel roads.


Am sure I have seen someone does a kit which includes stiffeners for the Mudflap. A couple of strips of say 10x 3 mm Ali. Do not take them all the way to the top as the Mudflap needs to flex a bit.

Might be worth an experiment.


Brendan
Post #369647 5th Nov 2014 8:40am
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Regard



Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: RSA
Posts: 251

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey
Well, I do not have a 90 (had one but with the normal "bend pipe to the side") but I have a 110 with a "straight pipe" to the rear also with the "cut out" in the flap.

We genarally do the same (in fact faster speeds) around here (120-125km/h) for +_ the same distances.

I've never seen or heard of this "problem" here?

There is not maybe an issue with your mud flap bracket that might be bent?
Post #369649 5th Nov 2014 8:53am
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Pickles



Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3755

Australia 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green
It's a well known issue in Aus, but is common only to the 90??!!,..and only above speeds of 90/95 kph, for long periods of time.
Brendan, I've been thinking of something like that, or maybe even some heatproof tape around the mudflap cutout to stop the heat getting to it?.....but I'd have no idea of what tape to use.
The issue I speak of is well known in Aus. Dealers will even replace the mudflap under warranty,....one owner I know has had three replacement mudflaps fitted,...under warranty!
Pickles.
Post #369655 5th Nov 2014 9:24am
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Regard



Member Since: 08 Dec 2011
Location: RSA
Posts: 251

South Africa 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Orkney Grey
Try to post a pic if you do not mind.
Post #369659 5th Nov 2014 9:54am
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SailingTom



Member Since: 19 Nov 2013
Location: ESSEX
Posts: 1709

United Kingdom 
You could cut 2 strips of curved stainless shaped to follow the cutout 1 either side bolted together to look a neat job?
As said a picture might help if you have the time Thumbs Up Defender puma dormobile camper
Post #369663 5th Nov 2014 10:20am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5430

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Would have thought it easier to put a sleeve over the pipe, so mud flap touches that not the hot pipe.
Post #369667 5th Nov 2014 10:27am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2290

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Pickles

I agree with the advice so far, the solution is to tackle the mudflap not the exhaust.

Mine was re-profiled to deal with a sports exhaust, not perfectly as it turned out,
I had the opposite problem to you, at speed it was good being pushed out the way,
but at rest it settled too close to a hot exhaust and slightly melted the flap.

I have re-cut this and are also taking the opportunity to replace the mudflap brackets
which had rusted & pitted very badly, on my 3 year old, 7K mile Defender, always garaged!
to a set of stainless steel brackets.

I know the 'through the flap' exit arrangements you refer to...stiffen the flap, but be aware
of the possible problem of the mud flap not 'getting out the way' on a tight departure angle
when off roading.


Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #369670 5th Nov 2014 10:44am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Might a metal ring bonded in your mudflap do the trick:


or even a heat shield on the outside of the flap:


or the chelsea truck company option:



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green
Post #369680 5th Nov 2014 11:24am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16947

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Remove the rear mudflaps altogether?
Post #369743 5th Nov 2014 4:35pm
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Pam W



Member Since: 25 Oct 2011
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1169

England 1998 Defender 90 Td5 SW Auto Oslo Blue
It is also worth noting that the last mounting bracket (at least on the Td5) has a fair amount of adjustment available in it. It is possible that just adjusting the mounting position could get the exhaust to point slightly further out and to the near-side, thus ensuring it isn't touching and/or there is a bit of air-flow around it for the gases to get away from the back of the flap. I have a custom exhaust (as my vehicle was custom rebuilt from ground up) but even so, we've not had a problem with melting (or even rattling) once we got the mounting position fine-tuned.

Perhaps the general quality of the Puma final assembly and/or exhaust mounting brackets are not done as well as on previous models, going by some of the warranty claims and issues people here on Defender 2 tell us about! Our blog - http://landytravels.com/

Yorkshire Off Road Club - http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net
Post #369767 5th Nov 2014 6:24pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7715

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
we have the same problem with our 90 at work towing a cattle trailer. solution for us was to cut a section out of the top of some front 110 mud flaps, recut the exhaust groove back in and refit. its shorted than std which is enough to stop the air flow pushing it up.

you could also reinforce is with metal strips

or hook it/chain/bungee to stop it going fwd but allowing rearward travel? Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #369838 5th Nov 2014 10:15pm
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