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Egghead



Member Since: 25 Nov 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 255

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Painting mirror covers
I got some paintable mirror covers off Ebay and intend to paint them Java Black (Paint: 697), so I'm off to buy a can of primer and a can of Java Black, but does anybody know if I need to buy a lacquer too please?
Post #332513 21st May 2014 12:27pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Yes you do Thumbs Up
Post #332520 21st May 2014 12:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19578

United Kingdom 
With out going OTT use a few coats of a Lacquer too because they get smacked a bit by hedges brambles, vegetation etc.
Of course depends where you go though..
Post #332525 21st May 2014 1:21pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5084

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Have the mirror backs been treated with Plastic Primer if not them you will need to buy a spray can of it. Unlike metal primer Plastic primer is designed to provide a tight bond for spray painting on plastic surfaces. If you use ordinary primer the paintwork will flake off.
Post #332535 21st May 2014 3:09pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello Egghead

The key here (IMO) is to first key the surface, a good etch primer will do this, plastic primer is also ok
but I would still key the surface manually with a fine wet & dry...'Stage 1'

...'Stage 2' plastic primer, or standard primer (if the surface is keyed)

Check the material of your covers is not a 'rubbish plastic' like polypropylene as this can (will) cause issues
if they are designed to be painted then they are likely to be ABS.

I would use a super etch epoxy primer, that works on almost anything as a first coat,
but this is through a gun.

...'Stage 3' Lacquer or clearcoat is required to protect your Java Black, or any other colour, and some alternative finishes... mine were the standard mirrors, cleaned, etched, dipped and then finished with clearcoat.


Click image to enlarge
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #333048 23rd May 2014 4:50pm
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Egghead



Member Since: 25 Nov 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 255

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
Thanks guys, I have the plastic primer, the paint and the lacquer. Done several coats of primer after cleaning the covers with degreaser. Started spraying on the paint but Censored me if I can't get a nice even finish on it, especially on the sides as the paint runs a little. Will give it a very fine wet and dry to smooth everything off, then try again but not sure if I should be holding the spray can from afar or what? Will only apply the lacquer layers once I have sussed out how to get a nice smooth and even paint layer without any drips...
Post #333174 24th May 2014 9:49am
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Spray can should be about 12 inches away from cover and release the spray button after each pass, don't keep it pressed all the time. Just build up with thin coats as you don't need to get it covered in one go.
Post #333177 24th May 2014 9:59am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
leave any undercoat 24 hrs to dry and shrink

thin colour coats ,but if you got a few coats leave to dry long time before lacquer as lacquer reacts with base coat to harden if you got thick base after a few thin coats it will be soft under lacquer and can go orange peel finsh

don't touch base coat before lacquer

but all really depends on what type make etc of paint you got , as they act differently

warm up bits to be painted carefully helps stop runs and try and warm up carefully after painting , but don't use blown heat (hairdryer etc )as your blow dust and cr@p into paint if poss a heat lamp of some kind is best but only gentle heat

MAIN THING DONT RUSH THE JOB !
Post #333178 24th May 2014 10:04am
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airpusher



Member Since: 04 Sep 2011
Location: South Wales
Posts: 363

Wales 2006 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Zambezi Silver
X4SKP wrote:
Hello Egghead


...'Stage 3' Lacquer or clearcoat is required to protect your Java Black, or any other colour, and some alternative finishes... mine were the standard mirrors, cleaned, etched, dipped and then finished with clearcoat.


Click image to enlarge



Did you put the Dinoc carbon fibre wrap on then? They look nice, I'm thinking of trying that myself. 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver
Post #333361 25th May 2014 6:30am
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hello airpusher

My 90 was initially prepared by BLR for a customer who moved on to a 110. Some of the parts were made to look like carbon fibre, the technique here is known as 'dipping' or 'hydrograhics' it is not vinyl on these parts.

I have the door mirrors and the internal double din fascia treated in this manner. It's obviously a fake carbon fibre effect, (but needs more than a passing inspection to see this), some of these finished now are reasonable in IMO, and work best when not too intrusive.

I you pursue this route get to see the exact film applied to an object before you go ahead.


Click image to enlarge

Defender Double Din Fascia with carbon fibre hydrograhic film applied SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #333462 25th May 2014 3:38pm
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airpusher



Member Since: 04 Sep 2011
Location: South Wales
Posts: 363

Wales 2006 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Zambezi Silver
X4SKP,

Thanks for the reply and the info. I'll have a look around and make I can see the finish first.

Thanks again Thumbs Up 2006 Defender Double Cab- Zambezi Silver
Post #333518 25th May 2014 6:20pm
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