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| chrispy Member Since: 14 Mar 2015 Location: Gwent Posts: 347   
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Good question, i'll be following the advice on this thread myself.
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5th Dec 2015 2:26pm |
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| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5085 
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Will it be left outside or inside, either way check your anti-freeze and lift the wiper arms away from the glass, consider using a fuel stabiliser additive to prevent the oxidization process in your diesel creating deposits that can damage fuel injectors and block filters when the engine is run again after a long storage period.
As for staring the engine I would run it at least fifteen minutes a week at tick over and move the 110 a couple of feet so that the tyres are not stressed in one position. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at.. http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1 |
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5th Dec 2015 2:46pm |
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| leonski Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 205  
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Many thanks Gilarion!
It's stored inside and it sits on a concrete floor, no heating but plenty of inadvertent ventilation! It hasn't been run for a good few weeks, so I will start to run it weekly as from now! What sort of fuel stabilisers do you recommend? Cheers, Leon. |
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5th Dec 2015 2:54pm |
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| flydive Member Since: 27 Aug 2015 Location: Lugano Posts: 290  
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I would also suggest to fill up the fuel tank to avoid condensation
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5th Dec 2015 5:00pm |
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| randjafloat Member Since: 13 Oct 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 9 
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Hi Leonski
We store stupidly large amounts of diesel in boat tanks during the winter period and have to avoid all the same issues that have been mentioned already. The fuel is often over a year old by the time it is finally burnt. You asked about fuel stabilisers - we use and love Stanadyne Performance Formula http://stanadyneadditives.com/performance-formula/ (the blue can version). We see just how well it slows down the natural degradation of the diesel by the condition of the filters when we change them! John Deere recommend the stuff for regular use, not just winter storage with their marine diesels and we've found that it really helps reduce wear in older mechanical fuel injection pumps too (we have those in generator sets) which run on red diesel (poor lubrication). You can get it on eBay / Amazon easily enough. We love the stuff! Hope this helps |
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5th Dec 2015 5:12pm |
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| leonski Member Since: 14 Dec 2009 Location: Northumberland Posts: 205
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Thanks guys!
We have a local John Deere service depot, so I will pop down next week at some point and see if they have fuel stabiliser in stock. But if it keeps raining, I will have to break out the 110 as the road conditions and river levels are getting crazy high! Cheers, Leon. |
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5th Dec 2015 8:31pm |
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| dave18 Member Since: 11 Jul 2015 Location: Gorleston, Great Yarmouth Posts: 497 
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Depends how far you want to go!
-Ctek battery trickle charger, -De-Humidifying bags / boxes what ever think a 110 would probably need a couple can be picked up from B&Q and the likes -FULL tank of diesel with the additive added, -Coolant checked and topped up, -All other levels checked and topped up, -Vehicle jacked and supported by axle stands till the wheels are just off the deck or remove wheels and fit cheap n nasty ones as they are only used for storage - Remove the likes of jackets, bags etc so they don't go funky! - Light smear of wax / oil on door seals, - Lithium spray on all hinges, - Lift wipers or remove completely, - Ensure all doors and windows are closed - Pressure wash the underside to get rid of all traces of leaks - Place trays under known leak points. - Cover interiors with old bed sheets to prevent the sun bleaching it if its in the sun, Most of this is OTT but will make sure when you come back A- You can see and trace all leaks, B- Filling the fluids gives less space for damp air to get into, The interior should be like you left it ( Ive lost two jackets due to sitting in the back of my old 90 HT when I was away for about a month at a time as they got bleached) |
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8th Dec 2015 10:56am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Dint really read other threads,I would add fuel stabiliser (marine people are the best for this).
Heavy,Heavy duty wash underneath and on top.For the ultra lazy use Demon shine spray on shine. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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8th Dec 2015 1:37pm |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3327
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I park my lightweight in the shed in October and take the keys out.
Go back in May, put the keys in and start it up and drive around for the summer......  |
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8th Dec 2015 1:46pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2664 
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The last couple of years mine has been stored away during December, Jan, Feb. Kept in a well-ventilated, dry garage.
All I do is give her a good wash, and spray the underside liberally with Scottoiler ACF on the painted parts, and ACF50 on the bright parts. Also a short run to make sure any water left in the chassis or any other area is able to drip out. I don't have mains power in the place I store her. Initially I had a solar charger attached to a South West facing wall, but in Scotland that's not quite enough (not enough daylight in December/January!) so I take the battery off for the worst of winter and use the C-Tek in my own garage (on the mains). She's always started perfectly after 3 month left idle. I usually use "Ultimate" or V-Power diesel immediately before and for the 1st tank after the storage. I don't start her unless I intend to drive somewhere - I am not personally sold on the benefits of leaving it ticking-over for long (or short) periods. I also change the oil/filter soon after starting her in spring. I have a FEMCO oil drain so that's really easy now. Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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8th Dec 2015 2:37pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101  
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Isn't the winter the best time to have a Landover on the road?
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8th Dec 2015 2:53pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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So I do it completely wrong. I park it outside, maybe cleaned after off-roading if I had time. When I am back and have time I use it again. Sometimes it's stored for weeks other times for a few months. My D3 has not been on the road since july as it is slow in the oilfield and the job I am now working on is in Belgium so I use the 90.
You should be able to park your car a few months otherwise something is wrong.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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8th Dec 2015 6:56pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3616 
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moisture anywhere is your enemy when storing a car, if indoors and secure leave a window slightly open allowing the inside to ventilate.
Regards starting the engine the good reason for doing this is to stop any condensation rusting bores, rings , valve seats or exhaust and any other nice internal bits, alternatively you are actually better to turn the engine over but not start it, every time you start it you increase the chance of introducing moisture. If I was storing for more than a few weeks 1/ wash and clean well underneath 2/ grease everything that needs greasing 3/ change engine oil (old oil has acids etc in it that damages bearings if stood) change other oils if it has been off roaded in deep water 4/ use good fuel or additive, drain water from fuel filter 5/ drive around for a good distance to dry out the brakes etc (do this before storing even for a few weeks as water between the pads and disks kills them and the pistons) 6/ jack up and place on axle stands with all wheels off the floor unless your storage space allows you to push it back and forth (stops bottom of tyres cracking and perishing and helps with 6) 6/ every few weeks turn the engine over by hand at lease 2 complete revolutions or by using the starter (need to stop it from starting) do this whilst in gear, hence moving grease and oil in all transmission points and bearings)(alternatively if your storage space allows leave it on the ground but push it back and forth to turn everything over a few revolutions) 8/ keep battery on a maintenance charge 9/ Leave the handbrake off it may seize on if damp If storing for less than about 4 weeks ignore all of the above except 5 and 9 but be prepared to charge the battery before you want to use it +1 for ACF50 but then I use it all the time DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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8th Dec 2015 8:12pm |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Just use it, after all it's what they are for. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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8th Dec 2015 8:36pm |
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