 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Access to fuel pump on a 110(Td5) |
 
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443   
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I had to bite the bullet and change the fuel pump in my Td5 110 the other day and for a change I took pictures.
First of all locate the floor in the back of your motor, I ply lined mine then built a box between the wheelarches that ends up being filled with more junk as it is out of sight;  Click image to enlarge Then it is choose your weapon of choice after measuring and marking where you're going to make the cut. The magic figures are 530mm from the outside of the rear door seal along the floor to the second row seats and 380mm from the nearside wheel arch into the middle of the floor. These measurements are to the middle of the pump looking from above. Click image to enlarge My first cut was to take out the layer of ply and I cut out a 200mm square Click image to enlarge More to follow |
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14th Apr 2014 10:44pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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I'm having big issues loading pictures at the minute, Internet Explorer is playing up and I'm getting a "problem loading to gallery" message. I'll try again later.
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14th Apr 2014 10:52pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Change your weapon and cut out the original floor, I cut mine about an inch inside the ply cut which will be explained later
[URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] This then exposes the strengthening ribs, these have to be trimmed, my new weapon after the grinder wouldn't reach was broken hacksaw blades held with a pair of molegrips [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Now you can get at the pump proper [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] I had already disconnected the electrical plug and tucked it up under the floor to keep from snagging it with the hacksaw . The retaining ring is metal, there is a special tool to undo it or you can go as the Haynes book of lies and make a gadget out of two strips of steel and some threaded bar but all I did was to use a hammer and a good screwdriver to tap it round. When the retaining ring undoes the pump will pop up under spring pressure, the pipes are held in with clips that need squeezing in then the pipes will pull out. Just lift out the pump paying attention to the float arm that runs to the right. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The difference between a Defender pump and a Discovery pump is the length of the float arm, this pump was sold as a Defender pump but I noticed the arms were different lengths [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] I erred on the side of caution and swopped them, not a big job, just unclipped and pulled it off and replaced it with the other. Replacement is. as they say a reversal of dismantling. It is easier to put the rubber seal on the tank opening then feed the pump back in taking care of the float arm and mechanism for the gauge as you feed it through the seal. There is a flag on the top of the pump that locates in a slot on the top of the tank. You need to push down on the pump against spring pressure to enable the locking collar to engage on its thread, it does get there but is very fiddly. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] The pipes and electrics are easy to put back, but with mine the locking collars were slightly different so I had to snip off the old ones and fit the ones that came with the new pump [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] Now when it is all fitted is the time to test, I took mine out due to issues with contaminated diesel, when it first came out it looked like it had come out of the engine sump, covered in black slime which was causing fuel starvation when going uphill with the engine stopping through lack of fuel. I put a new filter on and all has been perfect ever since. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] When I put the cut out bits back in I Gaffer taped the metal piece in position, placed the ply bit on the top in place, drilled pilot holes through the ply in the middle to leave a mark on the cut out part then removed them to drill properly and screw together. [URL=] Click image to enlarge[/URL] I then put it back in position, drilled the outer edge and screwed the access hatch down to the existing floor, sorted for future access if needed The job in itself is not difficult, just be logical and keep your eye on the bigger picture. No need for any special tools, just a means of cutting the floor, I used a 4½" grinder and some hacksaw blades, a pair of pliers to squeeze the clips on the fuel pipes and that was about it. I know some people have used circular cutters and used a circular inspection hatch bought off the shelf from a building supplies shop, also found used for inspection hatches in plastic tanks. As long as you end up with a hole 165mm as the smallest that should give you enough room. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
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15th Apr 2014 12:32am |
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! Outa curiosity,do you drive in a lot of wet conditions,muddy fields,rivers etc. which may cause the sludge build up and did you at any point try diesel biocide additive?| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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I can pinpoint mine to a particular garage. For the past 7 months mine has had nothing but Sainsburys own brand, receipts to show for it. One Thursday morning I used a Tesco Express with Esso branded fuel and 5 miles down the road at the first long hill the problems started. Far too much of a coincidence to be ignored.
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15th Apr 2014 12:31pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
I assume you think it may be Sainsburys fuel then,coz a dont think bio "infection" would happen within 5 miles of fillin up. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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15th Apr 2014 1:20pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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No, I think the opposite, it was all most empty and I put £60 of Tesco diesel in, that's what makes me think it is Tescos.
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15th Apr 2014 2:15pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5744  
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Old thread revival alert!
Looking to have the rear x-member replaced and one option is to cut a hole in the floor to access to the fuel pump so... JWL. When you cut the hole are the measurements you mentioned, from the metal of the wheel arch or from the ply-lining to the middle of the floor? "Then it is choose your weapon of choice after measuring and marking where you're going to make the cut. The magic figures are 530mm from the outside of the rear door seal along the floor to the second row seats and 380mm from the nearside wheel arch into the middle of the floor. These measurements are to the middle of the pump looking from above. " Looking at the clips for the fuel pump, these just look like the squeeze inwards with the help of a long pair of needle nose pliers? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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8th Dec 2015 8:42pm |
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| Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550 
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Why not just drop the fuel tank and remove the pump? I heard all the sories about it being a total pain and it wasnt too bad at all. While you're there you can give the underside of the tub and give your chassis a good wash. I'd much rather do that than know I'd cut a big hole in the floor in my defender all for ease.
Whilst I was there I replaced the plastic fuel pipe connectors with stainless ones from nakatanenga. The plastic ones become brittle and snap. Drop the tank.... Its easy! Honest! |
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8th Dec 2015 10:09pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Different ideas on which is the easiest way is what makes us all different and that in itself is a good thing. In my case I went in from the top as I didn't want to disturb all the tow bracketry plus for me it's less than a 10 minute job to gain access to the pump and can be done, and has been done, on the side of the road since.
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8th Dec 2015 11:56pm |
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 
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Here the details for the 110
http://ilmiodefender.altervista.org/botola110.pdf and for the 90 http://ilmiodefender.altervista.org/botola90.pdf All dimensions are in mm. I made it on my Puma for add the Webasto fuel pick up..... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition
IID Pro MV License |
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9th Dec 2015 12:02pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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Sorry John I hadn't noticed your question above, I measured from the outside of the rubber door seal and I took into account the ply, so from the tinwork of the wheel arch, just measure the flat of the floor.
The clips on the pipe connectors are just squeeze type, I usually use a finger and a flat screwdriver, mainly as I never have the long nose pliers handy. |
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9th Dec 2015 12:47pm |
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