 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rust around a rivnut - what to do? |
 
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907  
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Once again, on seeing the word 'Waxoyl', I find myself pointing people here:
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes And more specifically, here (scroll down the page to 'A Comparison'): http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50 To translate, Panel 1 is Dinitrol, Panel 2 is Waxoyl, Panel 3 is Dynax S50. Make your own mind up. I appreciate Eric that shipping could well be prohibitive for you, but if you're in the UK and want THE BEST corrosion protection available, then Dynax S50 is the one to use. I've gone around all my cappings today for their initial treatment with Dynax and it was remarkable to watch the capillary action draw it into every little gap. That is straight from the aerosol incidentally, with no heating, thinning, mixing or anything else other than an initial shake of the can. |
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23rd Mar 2014 10:43pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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We are all aware "Waxoyl is rubbish" Joe. The Bilthamber advertising has certainly worked it's magic on yourself. Undoubtedly it is good stuff nevertheless there are suitable alternatives unless of course it is everone's intention to subject their Defender to a hot salt spray trial after an extremely aggressive 2000 hours then Bilthamber would be my weapon of choice too.
Eric have a look and see if perhaps 'Fertan' is available and not cost prohibitive to you. It is used prolifically in the marine industry and conditions be they test or not don't come much harsher, Fertan also reactivates if it gets damp. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Mar 2014 8:25am |
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| ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328
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K9F Sorry the Polish Car Wash is far more aggresive than Salt
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24th Mar 2014 8:29am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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Mal, as said I already ordered a liter of ACF-50 from a UK supplier who will ship to Switzerland.
Will this be as good as the Fertan you mention there? Or is Fertan again a better and different product? This morning I will go to my dealer to show them this rust. It has been there for years now, albeit to a lesser extent, so each year at the corrosion inspection they missed it. Now, my opionion is that this qualifies as "perforating rust", since it is clear that the rust around the pop rivet is not coming from paint damage at the outside, but is creeping outward from rust devellopping at the inside of the metallic capping.... Let's see what they will say about that, but I won't let them get away with a "no" all too easily. Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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24th Mar 2014 8:36am |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
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It's not the advertising K9F, it's practical first hand experience over the last eight years. Up until 2006, I used Waxoyl.
I'll try to calm down a bit, but I hate to see people wasting their money and time on a product that won't do what they're expecting it to when a modern alternative that will is freely available if they only knew about it. Good luck at the dealer Eric. |
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24th Mar 2014 8:38am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Eric,
As you may know I work in the marine industry and through the course of conversation heard many good things about Fertan and indeed we use it on our anchor chains before greasing once a year. I have tried it and used it on my Defender with excellent results and would always use this as a treatment first. As with my cappings Land Rover have an authorised paint process that does not include rust treatment. A year after the rot returned. I had it done again and supplied my own Fertan to the body shop. I mentioned it on this thread a while ago and there are a few people that recommend it too. As stated it does reactivate if it gets damp and belt and braces would be to perhaps apply it and then Dinitrol it. It also may be easier for you to obtain from a chandlery perhaps if you have one in your area. Thankfully Bilthamber is mentioned in the thread too so Joe please 'rest easy.' 
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic24835.html?highlight=fertan From another thread if you do get a dealer solution.....supply you own treatment! 
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Mar 2014 8:47am |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816
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OK, just been at the dealer. They admit this rust should fall under the "penetrating rust" denominator. They took pictures, as they still have to get formal approval from Land Rover Switzerland. So not shouting hurray yet, but dealer had their body shop people come over already, they will have to make an estimate already now for LR Switzerland, but the car is already booked for 2 days next week to take care of this.
As the cappings will have to come off completely for this, I will ask the dealer/body shop to properly paint the inside of it with an anti rust coating, even if that portion would be for my account..... Let's first see what LR warranty say now about this... Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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24th Mar 2014 10:02am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Hopefully good news for you Eric. Pleased for you. Getting work under warranty such as this can be a postcode lottery and a lot to do with the attitude of the dealers. Sounds like you have a good one!
I have no experience of ACF50 but again have heard nothing but good reviews and comments from users.
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! Last edited by K9F on 24th Mar 2014 10:50am. Edited 1 time in total |
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24th Mar 2014 10:21am |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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is waxoyl that bad?
99 reg Suzuki jimny treated once from new , no rust anywhere ,never been garaged 03 mg zr treated once from new , no rust anywhere, never been garaged 57 reg defender treated once ,no rust anywhere owned before now sold 93 defender treated once used daily ,sold 07 no rust anywhere when sold 86 defender pick up treated once sold 93 no rust anywhere when sold 86 maestro van treated once sold 95 no rust when sold admittedly all treated by myself proplerly ,door cards off etc and by injection gun and the list could go on , is it that bad? |
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24th Mar 2014 10:30am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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No it's not! My previous comment was a poor attempt by myself at sarcasm....Sorry! 
Just fatigued at being forcefed the Bilthamber brand...... 
There have been significant advancements in the treatment and prevention of rust since waxoyl first appeared and waxoyl itself has had updates and additions to it's chemical mix since it was first introduced. It is still down to personal (not enforced) choice, budget, application in which it is to be subjected to harmful elements, experience and availability whatever you decide to use to protect your truck, be it old engine oil that costs nowt, to a few grand getting it teflon coated. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th Mar 2014 10:38am |
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| Joe the Plumber Member Since: 18 Dec 2013 Location: Midlands Posts: 907
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Sorry chaps, I have been going on about it too much. I'll give the BH obsession a rest (a rust?!) for a bit.
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24th Mar 2014 7:52pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
FWIW, I would touch it up myself, couldn't be bothered leaving it with an un-interested stealer.Regarding what to spray underneath the cappings,ACF has it's uses but they are short term,especially when comparing it to Waxoil/Dinotrol/Bilt Hamber type products and it wont fill the gaps or crevices so it will still allow water in.
What I would spray under the cappings is the Bilt Hamber stuff,you may find Waxoil or Dinotrol leaves run off marks down the bodywork after you have washed it  , especially in hot weather when it softens up. The hard waxy finish of Bilt Hamber would be a better bet. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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25th Mar 2014 12:12am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19579
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Dinitrol gets my support but Waxoyl must be similar, I've used this on everything that needs to be done on a comprehensive DIY application over a few days.
IMO it's prep and where it is put that makes all the difference. ACF 50 I've never used but IMO if it I did it would be it's clear protection properties that would be it's bonus. (It is clear isn't it?) So if it's applied on visible areas that can turn rusty then it's ideal rather than making everything look oily and black. I've not ever known Dinitrol run unless it's immediately after applied, in a short while it sets into more of a wax and that doesn't run. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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25th Mar 2014 1:40am |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
/\/\/\Wot I mean by "run off marks" is any water running over Waxoil/Dinotrol (when you washin it with a hose pipe)is likely to carry some residue with it (after all it is a non setting surface) staining the bodywork,where as Bilt stuff forms a hard wax surface. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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25th Mar 2014 11:17am |
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