 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Badge ghosting on paintwork |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19654  
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Changed my front badging today from Land Rover to Defender, all went well except one thing.
I was worried there would be UV marks from the old badging but this wasn't there which was good. But, there seems to be ghosted outlines of the letters on the paintwork that looks like in grained dirt and is dull. Tried shifting it with alcohol wipes and that didn't work nor did a sponge or claying. It's not very noticeable but it's there in the light. As I said no IV damage or colour of pain difference just this dirt like outline which is not glossy either but dull. Imagine dirt faintly drawn around the letters. I normally wax (the LR!) but I don't think that'll solve it. I was thinking this would do the trick http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p...;_from=R40 It just seems to me like it should come off just on this outline and the polish up to a glossy shine. Any ideas? If I can't sort it I might have to go back to Land Rover lettering just to cover up these marks which will be a pain cost me a new badge and waste the new one. It seems to me just like very ingrained dirt over the years, no issues behind the old badging or colour difference just this annoying outline. Will try and get a photo tomorrow. |
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30th Mar 2014 8:56pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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May be try a little t-cut ? Or cutting paste
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30th Mar 2014 9:06pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069
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TBH Steve it would have been easier to mop the leading edge before fitting the new badge but t-cut or anti-swirl paste should do the trick! have a look on the detailing web sites but meguire do some pretty good compounds
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30th Mar 2014 9:17pm |
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558 
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FARECLA G3 REG GRADE is what most of the body shops use for polishing new or good paint
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30th Mar 2014 9:20pm |
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| SailingTom Member Since: 19 Nov 2013 Location: ESSEX Posts: 1709
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Steve I swapped mine over on my last one. Ideally you should have done it first when there were non there but just T cut it and I guarantee it will go.
Cheers Tom Defender puma dormobile camper Last edited by SailingTom on 30th Mar 2014 9:24pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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30th Mar 2014 9:23pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19654
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BP - Indeed, I thought I wouldn't have much trouble with removing it hence fitting but I'm sure I'll get it sorted.
Munch - Ill have a look at that. Just thought I'd ask on here, lots of knowledge available which is really helpful! |
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30th Mar 2014 9:24pm |
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| sweepc Member Since: 19 Jun 2011 Location: uk Posts: 568 
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Yep id say a little cutting compound would do the trick no problem. Personally I like the 3m cutting compound
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30th Mar 2014 9:34pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19654
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Here's fitted:
 Click image to enlarge Managed to get a screenshot of the photo I took earlier you can see the outline of a V especially, you can see what I mean by an outline. Click image to enlarge |
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30th Mar 2014 9:43pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1874  
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Gtechniq have the best products I've seen, and I am very fussy, they have two polishes I would recommend P1 and P2 either would sort you problem with ease! You will be so impressed you will want to do the whole landy
http://gtechniq.com/shop/ 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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30th Mar 2014 10:05pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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Farecla g3 as said above, but you should have done the whole lot before sticking the new badge on because it's going to be right pain now.
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30th Mar 2014 10:32pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19654
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^^^^ That has some good reviews on it on Halfords site. I know it'll be a bit annoying but I don't mind spending time on it.
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30th Mar 2014 10:43pm |
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| Phoenix90 Member Since: 04 Mar 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 377 
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Others have said Farecla G3, but having used both I would go for the G10 rather than the G3.
The G3 is a lot rougher compound and can easily leave marks in the paintwork if your too enthusiastic with it. The G10 is finer but perfect for taking off what you have, just use it with plenty of water from a little spray bottle at the same time. When I got my 110 from Matt it had decals all down the side so I had to take off all of the adhesive and G10 did it all really nicely. |
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30th Mar 2014 11:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19654
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I did notice that when I looked at the G3. This is why I asked on here you see, the last thing I'd want to do is actually damage the paintwork. If that happened I'd rather it was left as is.
Cutting compound when used incorrectly can be disasterous. |
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31st Mar 2014 12:03am |
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| Maxxed_Ross Member Since: 06 Jun 2012 Location: Bathgate / North Sea Posts: 340  
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avoid t cut at all costs
I didn't realise I had time warped back to the 80's where it was still acceptable 
Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 would probably be ideal for that. It's mild enough that you won't screw the paint up but should still shift the marks. Down side is that it may take a few more passes to get perfect results but if you're worried about damaging the paint then that's a good compromise. It'll need a polish after too with a decent product to finish it off. |
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31st Mar 2014 6:16am |
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