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2004_TD5_NZ



Member Since: 13 Dec 2020
Location: Auckland
Posts: 10

New Zealand 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Santorini Black
TD5 COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN / FILL
OK so I know there are a few different topics on this but I'm just hoping for some clarification on the steps outlined in the workshop manual. This may also help a few other people as I've read a number of other posts mentioning that you need to remove alternator to drain coolant from cylinder block (often 5-6 litres remain in there). The manual says you only need to open the drain plug on coolant feed pipe to get it.


1.) Can someone please confirm air inlet hose referred to is (4) (connects to intercooler and manifold)?






2.) The drain screw is noted as (20) - also referred to in diagram as drain plug?



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Post #996329 15th Jun 2023 4:33am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1572

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Some have a soft pipe and some have a solid pipe with the drain plug that goes along the bottom of the fan cowling. Just remove this bung to drain the system.

You can get at the bottom radiator hose but it’s fiddly if you remove the back top fan cowling (four screws)

I wouldn’t bother stripping the alternator etc out to drain its madness. Worth noting it’ll drain out quicker once you remove the expansion cap so be careful with your bucket Mr. Green


Why do you want to take the inter cooler hose off?
Post #996396 15th Jun 2023 5:25pm
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2004_TD5_NZ



Member Since: 13 Dec 2020
Location: Auckland
Posts: 10

New Zealand 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Santorini Black
Hi Nick, thanks for response. I'm following the procedure in workshop manual - step 6 I have highlighted there states to remove hose from intercooler. I also can't really figure out why that needs to come off??
Post #996416 15th Jun 2023 8:46pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1572

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Ignore it. There’s normally a bleed valve in the top hose and in the fuel cooler line, best advice is to look at the condition of the top bleed screw before you start this, part of my spares inventory for them.

I’ve done them for years draining the bottom hose bung or removing the bottom radiator hose, I do have the proper tool for the spring clips though.


Try not to get coolant on your belt when bleeding the system as it’ll squeal after.


Last edited by NickMc on 15th Jun 2023 9:08pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #996420 15th Jun 2023 9:02pm
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2004_TD5_NZ



Member Since: 13 Dec 2020
Location: Auckland
Posts: 10

New Zealand 2004 Defender 110 Td5 SW Santorini Black
OK cheers, top bleed screw has been replaced at some stage with an anodised aluminium one. Looks good.
Post #996424 15th Jun 2023 9:07pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1572

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
No problems, not too hard a job, just make sure you get it up to temp and bleed the air out at both bleeders, a few squeezes of the top hose normally helps. No harm in cleaning the hose at the head on the top too as they’re a bad spot for corrosion and leaks while it’s drained.
Post #996425 15th Jun 2023 9:11pm
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