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| mustafasoleiman Member Since: 21 Jun 2016 Location: London Posts: 103   
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Hello
My TD5 is punishing me because I bought a Mini Electric for my wife so the Defender is not used every day... My battery now dies if I do not use my TD5 everyday... It sounds like I need a new battery... Any advice on which to get, and is it difficult to replace? Many thanks Alex http://instagram.com/h4vou/ |
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25th Jan 2022 11:58am |
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| ibexman Member Since: 13 Dec 2008 Location: kent Posts: 2879
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Varta LFD90
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25th Jan 2022 1:07pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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A lof off people will probably not agree with me but I say the bigger the better. (next to the trickle charger what I don't use).
The problem with starting a td5 with a lower charged battery is that if the voltage drops below a certain voltage (8,5v?) the ecu stops working and then there will be no diesel injection. A bigger battery will keep the voltage up longer as the load % is lower. And this works double as if the voltage will be higher the amperage will be lower with the same load. However a good battery should be able to start your td5 even with -20C. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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26th Jan 2022 1:54pm |
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| mustafasoleiman Member Since: 21 Jun 2016 Location: London Posts: 103
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"A lof off people will probably not agree with me but I say the bigger the better. (next to the trickle charger what I don't use). "
Thank you for this, so which battery do you suggest? Alex http://instagram.com/h4vou/ |
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26th Jan 2022 4:19pm |
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| mustafasoleiman Member Since: 21 Jun 2016 Location: London Posts: 103
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Thank you... which ctek model would you suggest? Best Alex http://instagram.com/h4vou/ |
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26th Jan 2022 4:20pm |
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| mark1200 Member Since: 09 Oct 2011 Location: peterborough Posts: 64  
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This is what i have in my truck https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/enduroline/ygd100860/ its the same size as the original battery so fitting it is no problem
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26th Jan 2022 4:51pm |
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| Rabbitwabbit Member Since: 31 Mar 2021 Location: Blackpool Posts: 38 
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My Defender was starting to struggle with my 110A/h (935CCA) battery. This is due to many cold starts and short runs. I've just bought a CTEK - MXS-5 from Amazon and that's restored things perfectly. I've also used it on my other vehicles just to recondition and top up their batteries.
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26th Jan 2022 5:06pm |
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| Intercept Member Since: 27 Feb 2017 Location: Suffolk Posts: 587 
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I've had one of these plugged into the 12S socket for the last few months. It works very well. Total cost <£25 (the charger price has increased by £10 since I bought it). The ability to operate on 12V or 24V is useful to me because the 101 is 24V.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293757451737 I added a de-latched pair of XLR connectors in-line just in case I forget that it's connected and drive away... 
 Click image to enlarge |
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26th Jan 2022 5:21pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16946 
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I agree with your sentiment that size matters! Re. the cranking voltage, it would be interesting to know at what voltage the ECU does shut down. Some time back I had a complete alternator failure on my TD5 Disco2, which I accept has a completely different electrical system, but a similar ECU I think. It was fascinating driving home as directly as I could to see the vehicle progressively shutting its electrical system down as the battery voltage dropped, but unfortunately I had no way to monitor the voltage at any time. It was (fortunately) daylight, but the ICE was the first thing to stop working, then things like the indicators stopped, eventually the whole of the IPAC shut down. By the time I got home, the only electrical system still working was the ECU and presumably fuel pump and to my surprise the engine kept running (although I was very careful not to stall it since it would not have restarted). It was remarkably similar to what I would expect to happen with a 200TDi with no engine electrical system. As a survival strategy it was very impressive. |
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26th Jan 2022 5:47pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1760 
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While you may well be due a new battery, it's probably also worth doing a once over, checking for any loads running when its off and draining the battery overnight.
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26th Jan 2022 7:40pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 375 
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[quote="blackwolf"]
My Series 3 had a 19J lump in it when I bought it, and (unbeknown to me at the time) a pretty much non-working alternator. presumably the seller had charged the battery up for my arrival and test drive. On the 200 mile trip home in daylight everything was fine, but as darkness fell, everything started to go rather dull. I was definitely in the position that I'd used all the power in the battery up, and the mechanical fuel pump and injection was keeping itself running. Engine was running absolutely fine, but the headlights were so dim, it was hard to work out if they were still 'on'. voltage must have been very low indeed. It now has an (equally mechanically fueled) 200tdi lump in it, so once started will still run happily without any electrical assistance. |
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26th Jan 2022 8:06pm |
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: aberdeenshire Posts: 510 
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Apart from the injector pump solenoid, which will give up the ghost once voltage drops.
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26th Jan 2022 8:10pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1802
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 plus a ctek 5 or 7 charger (as long as you have a garage or drive as it’s mains powered) and you are in a strong position. |
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26th Jan 2022 8:17pm |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039
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I also had an dead alternator on an offroad weekend. Every night I put the charger on and I could drive during the day. I even shut it off. When the engine is warm it starts easily. On the Monday I stopped early to clean it a little and charge it before driving the 200 km home with a trailer with a lighweight on it. I had to use my lights on the second half off the trip and I might have made it but I didn't want to risk it. The first thing that stopped was my rev counter. We changed the batteries, the one from the lightweight and from the 90 and we continued. I don't know exactly when the ecu cuts out as my in car old Nanocom 1 cuts out before that. As asked before I don't really have an recommendation for the battery brand as I currently use an old Land Rover original Discovery 3 V8 battery. The D3 is even more voltage sensitive. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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28th Jan 2022 8:00pm |
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