 | Home > Td5 > Rattle after replacing brakes? |
 
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245  
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Hub nut?
I just fitted a new one and tightened it as tight as l could with my 15" bar. My local specialist said that this should mean the preload is as it was before. To increase the preload you need to exert a lot more force. Before fitting the new nut l tried refitting the old one, when it would not go any tighter it was in exactly the position it was before l took it off. |
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16th Sep 2016 7:07pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Discs yes, new bearings not necessarily. It comes down to manufacturing and installation tolerance compared to the tolerances required to set the axial load on the taper bearings. Too loose, and the bearings will load up asymmetrically and especially when side forces are applied maybe even cyclically lose contact with the bearing faces (which could make 'tsssssh tsssssh' like noises) , too much and you're basically compressing the bearings which =heat=expansion=heat=wear (which could also make 'tsssssh tsssssh' like noises) ... With the stakenut system this disctance is simply set by the spacer, which allows the ol' 'do it up as tight as you like' approach (205Nm). Somewhere in the WSM there are instructions on how to measure what spacer you require (which means a trip off to your favourite parts supplier in the middle of your job). Once this is set, you're good to go for things like disc swaps, which assuming you keep all the parts to their respective wheels shouldn't affect the system. (unless you somehow managed to get all the same 'colour', in that case you can swap all you like  (the colour by the way, is just a painted dot on the side of the spacer))
However, I would say that swapping out the bearings would mean a recheck might be in order - if the bearings are the same brand, their manufacturing tolerances are good, you managed to seat them perfectly (again) and/or just plain ol' luck; it'll say use the same spacer. In that case it is effectively the hub manufacturing tolerances that determined the spacer... Now you might understand why I went with the two nut system, as I'm relatively remote, rather then order a set of 'what if' spacers ($$) for the moment when I discovered my new bearings changed things, I just set it at the time of hub install with the old two nut system. I hope this discussion is on topic though, maybe the OP's problem is caused by something else... Any news? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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18th Sep 2016 3:45am |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245
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I took it apart again today.
The brake pads are really quite a loose fit and l have read that this is so they don't jam and still work when full of mud. I put rubber O rings on each end of the pins to stop them rattling as they are also a fairly loose fit in the calipers (although this won't make the pads any tighter on the pins) I also stretched the "anti rattle" springs a bit to increase the tension on the pads. As the pads wear down the springs compress and maybe this is why it did not rattle before, the old pads had about 2mm of lining left. I have not driven it since then but l will report back when l have, although l don't expect it will make any difference. |
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18th Sep 2016 8:48pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2548 
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What brand were the calipers, pads and retaining kits?
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18th Sep 2016 10:01pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245
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Ermmmm.....Britpart XS
This evening l took off the front wheels and the front pads are also a loose fit in the calipers. These were replaced a few months ago by a local LR specialist. These were not Britpart items. I've done the same as the rear, so let's see if it is any better.... |
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19th Sep 2016 8:39pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2548
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That would be my suspicion then - crappy quality Britpart parts with poor tolerances.
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21st Sep 2016 7:40pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245
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Well, it's still rattling.
The front pads are just as loose in the calipers and they were OE items at over twice the price! You can only hear the rattle with the windows down. I think the only solution would be to fit proper anti rattle springs. There have been similar issues with the tdci rear brakes rattling and LR produced a kit to fix it....but the calipers are different to TD5 ones. |
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21st Sep 2016 10:43pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769  
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You can get some anti rattle springs off a Volvo (can't remember which model) that need a little cut off the end and will then fit td5 rear callipers. I bought some from the Landrover centre in Huddersfield, but if you wait for your new pads to get caked up in brake dust they'll stop rattling as that's the only reason they didn't rattle before you swapped them.
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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21st Sep 2016 11:55pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245
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I have solved this rattling on my Defender at last!
What l did was to fit a small 0-ring at each end of the anti rattle spring. Also a thin washer between the spring and 0-ring. What this does is to stop the brake pads from being so free to move around, as they now have an O-ring pressed against them at each end. The rattle has gone! You can buy boxes of assorted 0-rings on Ebay for a few pounds, choose a small one that's a push fit over the caliper pins. The washers l had already, but l bought them from my local hardware store. I checked and the spring will still compress enough to let the pads wear right down. |
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22nd Sep 2016 9:40pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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 Surely with the amount of heat that goes through brake pads the o ring will just melt over your pads and discs which can't be good? Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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22nd Sep 2016 10:50pm |
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| lightning Member Since: 23 Apr 2009 Location: High Peak, Derbyshire Posts: 2245
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I shouldn't think the pins will get that hot on the rear brakes, but l will keep an eye on it.
The O-rings are rated to at least 100deg C as they are used in central heating boiler valves. |
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23rd Sep 2016 7:31pm |
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