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yanto



Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: caerleon
Posts: 230

Wales 
cv joint
Hi all
Think the cv joint has started to give up so where is the best place to buy them?Thanks.
Post #548287 12th Jul 2016 9:48pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
In terms of online sales I just bought some Bearmach CV/shafts from brit-car.co.uk.

Genuine are quite spendy.

I rate the folk at brit-car, they're quite good in terms of after sales back up.

Paddock - veeery slow and inconsistent communications.
LRDirect - fast, but zero comms and after sale back up.

Also, Brit-car are consistently are either the cheapest or 2nd cheapest for the same part across other stores, and they offer pattern/OEM/genuine for most parts.

Path of least resistance... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #548320 12th Jul 2016 10:29pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I don't know what you drive but if you don't have abs, try to find a non abs version as they are stronger. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #548329 12th Jul 2016 10:43pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
I understand removing material (milling out the ribs) generally reduces strength in any part, but I thought the point of failure would be the shaft, or in terms of wear, the splines or the balls/ball housing (internally) ?

Keen to learn something new though!

*edit, just looked at a cross section ... the ABS ribs are indeed close to the ball housing, is this what you mean? If so, ouch! I'm keen to know what a failure look like Shocked Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...


Last edited by agentmulder on 12th Jul 2016 11:37pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #548333 12th Jul 2016 10:48pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Someone will likely know better but IMO you're going to also need to replace:

Flange/hub gasket: 571752
Stub axle/swivel housing gasket: FTC3648 or FTC3650 (not sure which is TD5, they're cheap, order both, might turn out to be very similar)

Maybe not required but I'd do them (if not a complete overhaul):

Flange: RUC105200
Inner stub seal: FTC5268
Inner hub seal: FTC4785

(since they cheap(ish) and/or consumable(ish) and/or going to be right there and accessible) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #548341 12th Jul 2016 11:34pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
My first CV break at about 49 sec.
I broke my CV's both times at almost full lock.

First one:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpB1HKRpTzc


Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge


So replaced both.


Click image to enlarge


One was an ABS version and one was a none ABS version. The none ABS was the last one in his stock as all he could get were now ABS versions.

The ABS version didn't survive very long.



Click image to enlarge


There is a little more scrap in this picture as I put everything in one bag. Twisted Evil

As mentioned before I broke both the CV joints at allmost full steering lock. The first one very slow as you can see in the video the second at full power 2nd low gear in the mud. I have 35"Simex tyres with a standard front axle so that maybe part off the problem. Mr. Green
I have Aschroft in the rear axle with a Detroit locker and a True Track in the front axle, That True trac doesn't do much if one wheel is in the air but it clearly works if both front wheels are on the ground.

I like to change the front also to Aschroft so if somebody from Aschroft read this and offers me a good discount Whistle as currently I find them a bit expensive. Big Cry Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #548387 13th Jul 2016 8:52am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Oh Censored !

Well, I'll take that as 1x compelling evidence Thumbs Up

I suppose the milled/broached slots act as stress risers:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_concentration Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...


Last edited by agentmulder on 13th Jul 2016 9:05am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #548388 13th Jul 2016 8:58am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
The none abs and the abs versions are almost the same the none abs has the abs ring but are not cut out so they have a thicker ring on the edge.
The abs version have the slots cut in in this ring so they have less wall thickness and as it is not smooth you probably get stress concentrations on the points were the slots are cut. Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #548390 13th Jul 2016 9:04am
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Was the replacement ABS version Britpart by any chance? Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #548391 13th Jul 2016 9:07am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
No original Land Rover part. I now have one original and one All-makes non-abs.

If you lift them you feel the difference between a britpart and the others. The britpart is much lighter. Shocked Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #548393 13th Jul 2016 9:11am
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