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potspeedy



Member Since: 13 Feb 2016
Location: Bucharest
Posts: 14

Romania 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
new 110 chassis - shall I galvanized?
Got the new chassis this morning. Should I galvanized it now? That means sandblast, galvanized and then special paint, right? Or should I just treat it well now as it is easy to reach all the parts.

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 2012 MY, Defender 110, 2.2 Puma
2016 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Autobiography
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Post #519485 31st Mar 2016 8:26am
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alfajock



Member Since: 12 Jan 2011
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 227

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 V8 Petrol CSW Bonatti Grey
I'd say if you are going to the trouble of fitting a new chassis, and it is brand new and bare, yes get it galvanised. It doesn't make the truck immortal, but it gets pretty close! Fully Restored 89 110 CSW V8

CLS 350 CDI for the sensible stuff
Post #519499 31st Mar 2016 9:17am
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jimbob7



Member Since: 06 Jul 2013
Location: uk
Posts: 2055

Nope,roller paint it with quality chassis primer/paint/then waxoil it,good for 50+years,if your on a budget.If money is no object get it galvanised then roller primer/paint it.Galvanised then quality primer paint/waxoil,good for 100 years+. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
Post #519543 31st Mar 2016 11:54am
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Galv and leave, it should not need painting it's an external finish in it's own right and looks all the better as it weathers in.
Post #519621 31st Mar 2016 3:19pm
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Timo



Member Since: 14 Jul 2011
Location: Peterborough Ontario
Posts: 171

Canada 1984 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Alveston Red
Is this the forever truck? How long do you plan to keep it? Do you usually keep cars of flip them quickly?

If it will always be yours, you will take care of it. Or piece of mind, it will last longer if galvanized even if you stop looking after it.

Sorry, not really an answer...

If I had the choice I would galvanise it. Then I would not have to worry about rust!

Cheers

Tim Series II in pieces
1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI)
Post #519659 31st Mar 2016 5:25pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6294

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Put a good coat on it like you say.

no point having a good chassis with just dust on top of it as the rest rusts / corrodes away Very Happy
Post #519669 31st Mar 2016 5:50pm
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Landy-Novice



Member Since: 22 Jun 2013
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 118

United Kingdom 
Supacat wrote:
Galv and leave, it should not need painting it's an external finish in it's own right and looks all the better as it weathers in.


but galv' is a sacrificial layer and doesn't last. seen ones fitted in the '90 with rotten crossmembers.



i would get it galv'ed/t washed/primered and plastering inside and out with a good quality paint. and keep pianting it every couple years then it will last forever. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #519701 31st Mar 2016 7:06pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
The sacrifical properties of the coating are one of its benefits in self healing any damage. Zinc corrodes in preference to steel and sacrifices itself to protect the steel. The corrosion products from the zinc are deposited on the steel resealing it from the atmosphere and therefore stopping corrosion.

With paint coatings, additional protection would have to be applied immediately after the damage occurred or the steel would rust with eventual break down of the whole coating as rust crept underneath the paint film.

If it's not lasting then it's been applied badly or the steel has been prepared poorly.

Read more here:

http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/galvanizing-se...lvanizing/
Post #519780 31st Mar 2016 9:06pm
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Mike_B



Member Since: 23 Jan 2011
Location: Moray
Posts: 550

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Java Black
Why wouldnt you galv it if you're in the enviable position of being able to fit a new chassis? I'd galv it and then coat in in that new buzzweld coating before the rebuild.

I'm slightly jealous!
Post #520348 2nd Apr 2016 6:38pm
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Disco_Mikey



Member Since: 16 Nov 2014
Location: Dundee
Posts: 531

Scotland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Keswick Green
The chassis has to be taken back to the bare metal, both inside and out.
The acid does not strip off the paint, and so not protected by the galvanising

It takes a lot of careful and thorough blasting to take the full chassis back to bare metal
Post #520386 2nd Apr 2016 8:20pm
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rover



Member Since: 26 May 2012
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 146

United Kingdom 
Be carefull, steel warps when galvansised, I think the likes of Richards make the chassis sections thicker/ stronger because of this.
Post #520461 3rd Apr 2016 9:01am
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potspeedy



Member Since: 13 Feb 2016
Location: Bucharest
Posts: 14

Romania 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
guys, thanks for all the input on this, It s difficult for me to do it here as it is not a commune operation so I think I will stick to a good treatment... 2012 MY, Defender 110, 2.2 Puma
2016 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Autobiography
past:
2015 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Vogue
2013 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Vogue
Post #520700 3rd Apr 2016 9:41pm
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