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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Front door seals (surround)
Tried to re-align the drivers door to make the hip part of the door line up with hip part on the B pillar post.
Got this a little better but with the door seal in place, the door still is not flush with the B pillar.

There appears to be a hard rubber insert in the door seal where the hip is.

Is this correct? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #476779 27th Nov 2015 7:50pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

LR Door seals or Blue box parts seals ?

LR seals rubber softer, blue box seals harder rubber

also make shore rubber seals are fitted properly
Post #476786 27th Nov 2015 8:14pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2555

Scotland 
Yes. It prevents the seal collapsing.

The close position of the door is set by the striker position. If you move it further inboard the door will close tighter against the seal.

If your seal is non-genuine it will be too stiff and the door will not close fully.
Post #476789 27th Nov 2015 8:17pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Not sure if the seal is genuine LR or not, always been on the car since I purchased it 5 year ago.
Is there an alternative to genuine LR seals, which I guess are not cheap? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #476811 27th Nov 2015 8:42pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 901

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
A genuine door seal has a thicker rubber insert inside the the hollow rubber seal at that point. If it is in place it is likely a genuine seal. Yes it is supposed to be there. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)


Last edited by 4RF RDS on 28th Nov 2015 3:06pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #476986 28th Nov 2015 1:55pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2555

Scotland 
Aftermarket seals have the rubber insert too.

I've never found anything other than genuine ones to be of satisfactory quality. To the extent that 20+year old genuine seals were better at the job than brand new Britpart seals.
Post #476995 28th Nov 2015 2:37pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Replaced the passenger and drivers door. The passenger door shuts the same as before and has a bit of spring when opening. The drivers door needs a bit more assistance shutting.

What I have noticed is with the door seal removed the door aligns better with the hips but the top of the door is a good few MM in at the top i.e not flush. Maybe this is causing some issues with shutting the door.

I have 3 spacers between the top door hinge and the door. So I was thinking of removing a space or two to see if the door aligns better.

Is there a certain number of spacers needed? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #486575 29th Dec 2015 2:51pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2555

Scotland 
Add/remove shims to get the door flush with a pillar at the leading edge.

If the top of the door up near the roof is slightly out but the door frame at the waist is fine then the only solution is to gently bend the door too the correct way. I find a knee against it and heaving it works well. Just don't snap it off!
Post #486629 29th Dec 2015 6:03pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Leading edge flush with a pillar or the A pillar? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #486640 29th Dec 2015 6:34pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2555

Scotland 
With the A pillar, apologies.
Post #486657 29th Dec 2015 6:58pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Thanks. That makes more sense in my head now. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #486659 29th Dec 2015 7:02pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2052

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Please let us know how it goes, and post some pics if you get chance excossack. Thumbs Up

Do you intend to purchase new door seals? If so it'd be good to hear from others if there are any decent (softer) aftermarket offerings that are better than the blue box product yet cheaper than LR.

Mine look like the originals and have seen better days, however this thread has made me think twice about some of the less expensive options Wink

It sounds like you have a plan. Best of luck!
Post #486771 30th Dec 2015 12:01am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
I took a chance and purchased door seals from LRi Solutions via their ebay site.
When I get a break in the weather I might venture back outside and have another look 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #486859 30th Dec 2015 1:34pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
I fitted bearmach seals a while back. Fitted well and still nice and soft. Doors dont touch them at the top but thats a different issue! 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #486868 30th Dec 2015 1:58pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5745

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Retroanaconda wrote:
Add/remove shims to get the door flush with a pillar at the leading edge.

If the top of the door up near the roof is slightly out but the door frame at the waist is fine then the only solution is to gently bend the door too the correct way. I find a knee against it and heaving it works well. Just don't snap it off!


Leading edge on both doors flush with A pillar 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #487169 31st Dec 2015 9:53am
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