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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
Spare wheel bearings - what's needed...?
I want to carry a couple of spare wheel bearings, apart from the bearing itself, what else do I need in order to change one..?

cheers

simon
Post #477699 30th Nov 2015 5:07pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

FTC 4785 seal and RFD 100000 stack nut for a start

Drive flange gasket (hub gasket) 571752
Post #477707 30th Nov 2015 5:21pm
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rallysteve



Member Since: 10 Feb 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 2200

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Keswick Green
-A 52mm socket and a big bar to get the old hub nuts off (assuming you have the later staked nut type, if not the box spanner type affair will do);
-17mm socket to get the drive flange nuts off
-pry bar/soft faced mallet to break the seal with the drive flange and hub and remove/install the hub seal;
-punch and hammer to remove the outer bearing races;
-Suitable wheel bearing grease;

Assuming you are travelling on an overland trip to want to carry spare bearings, in which case a stub axle would be advisable too.

Steve[/list] 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale
Post #477722 30th Nov 2015 5:53pm
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
cheers guys, just what I wanted to know...Wink Thumbs Up
Post #477728 30th Nov 2015 6:18pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7688

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
plus 13mm multi point to remove the caliper bolts and spare caliper bolts, tube of RTV and grease to pack bearings with

personally i wouldnt use a stake nut, i would carry the two nuts with washer to bend over them to hold in place. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #477737 30th Nov 2015 6:41pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

personally i wouldn't use a stake nut, that right Idea

one big torque wrench 210Nm Whistle
Post #477790 30th Nov 2015 8:56pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7688

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
i prefer the older method and ability to reassemble in the field without needing new parts like a stake nut. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop
Post #477813 30th Nov 2015 10:06pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

your right if i was filled striping and rebilding wheel bearings

FTC3185

FRC8700 or RFD100000 and TFC 3179
Post #477817 30th Nov 2015 10:15pm
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
I changed to the old system too.
I allways carry a tube off blue silicon to seal anything except the fuel system as you need gray silicon for that. Smile



Click image to enlarge
 Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #477880 1st Dec 2015 7:52am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
You might also want to consider changing to oil lubricated bearings - more prone to leaking but also much less prone to "catastrophic" failure. You need to use the RTC 3511 seal on the hub if you do this though as the "greased" seal doesn't provide a good enough seal to keep oil in (or water out). http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #477894 1st Dec 2015 9:04am
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Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230

Australia 
roel wrote:
I changed to the old system too.
I allways carry a tube off blue silicon to seal anything except the fuel system as you need gray silicon for that. Smile



Click image to enlarge

I changed to the two nuts and locking tab but retained the original spacer.
Just did the first nut up as tight as I could with the tools I carry in the Puma.
Lock tab and second nut as per the normal method.
Undoing the stake nut on the side of a track would be big ask, I don't carry 3 foot of pipe to slip over my hub spanner.

I carry 2 bearings, hub seal, flange gaskets, spare lock nuts with washer, spare lock tab plus grease.
The reason for the spare nuts in case I damage one or need to fit bearings to another vehicle on a trip. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #478030 1st Dec 2015 6:16pm
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yetiman45



Member Since: 22 Dec 2014
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 69

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Blenheim Silver
The problem with keeping the spacer is you can't take up any play in the bearings when they wear, if you're using the old system of locking nuts and tab washer, just bin the spacer.
Post #478276 2nd Dec 2015 10:45am
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Alien



Member Since: 18 Jan 2015
Location: Bacchus Marsh
Posts: 230

Australia 
I had no movment after a full clean and regrease on all 4 wheels with the spaces fitted.
If I do get any movment I'll take your advice and remove the spacers Wink
At this stage they are no worse than doing one nut up stupidly tight. Cheers,
Kyle.
Post #478374 2nd Dec 2015 5:04pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5424

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I've got the parts to convert to twin nut system if you want.

Also four timken bearings, one old bearing race altered to install new bearings, couple of oil seals, 52mm box socket.

Let me know if interested



Click image to enlarge


Andy
Post #478663 3rd Dec 2015 11:09am
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