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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
EGR removal tips?
Hi all, apologies if this has been covered before but I am new to this forum having come up short on LRO.com forum

I am looking for tips to get the EGR valve removed to either service it or replace it, the bolts on the rear of the engine seem to be completely obscured by a metal tab and I cannot get access to remove it. Any tips would be appreciated
Post #425139 20th May 2015 5:24pm
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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
Forgot to mention it is a 2.4 2012 defender (last of 2.4 engines)
Post #425140 20th May 2015 5:25pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2626

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I got at one part from the top, other the bottom it's a pig with little tips...

Why don't you just blank it?
Post #425143 20th May 2015 5:46pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Cant blank them on the puma. You can deactivate them.

To get the EGR off it is simply 4 bolts all 10mm headed. But, as you say awkward to access. I too approached one of the bolts from underneath. As with most bolts near exhausts, the hard part is loosening the bolt initially. Once you cracked it off finger tips will unscrew the rest of the way. My question is do you have a real need to access the EGR? Or are you hoping to prevent future failure by cleaning it?

I stick hard to the term if it ain't broke ....

Many of my jobs have been a result of people toying with things they shouldn't have, commonly on the defender the suspension. Lifts and drops all altering the tolerances on the geometry and straining bushes.

If the EGR is making the chucka chucka sounds when the engine is switched off, then its cleaning it self.
Post #425148 20th May 2015 6:00pm
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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
I am getting rough running at idle and fault code is occasionally thrown up that the EGR valve cannot reach commanded position, had a go at removing to clean it but gave up as I couldn't get access to rear bolts, guess I need to just keep trying with scraped knuckles thanks for the replies.
Post #425154 20th May 2015 6:29pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Shame you're no where bear me ! Would only take a few hours to talk you through it all and show you the tricks. Maybe a rum or two as we go. An option is to squirt a bit of cleaner up the inlet side not alot though this may free up the butterfly a little. Not really advisable but may be a temp aide.
Post #425160 20th May 2015 6:46pm
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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
Tried one of these inlet cleaner cans as well to attempt to avoid removal after I failed to get access but it hasn't helped!

I am fairly skilled having rebuilt several series land rovers, just not used to access as poor as this....
Post #425168 20th May 2015 6:56pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Its a new world modern engines the bread of my mechanical knowledge is older engines, not because I'm old, and learning how to mangle my hands into a modern engine bay has become a skill of mine. Despite being a HGV mechanic haha.

Access from underneath with twelve 1/4" drive extensions and crack em off if you need to bud
Post #425185 20th May 2015 8:35pm
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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
Still having fun with this! The rear lower bolt is completely obscured by the clip that holds the egr coolant hose onto the cooler, I can't get any sort of tool near enough from top or bottom to remove it or to even snap it off! It has been placed on without any thought in the factory so as a result I am looking to have to strip all of the hoses etc on this side of the engine from below to get at the clip before I can even consider removing the bolt...... Not a happy chappy!

On another note, noticed that all of the breathers for the axles, transfer box and gearbox are sitting up to the level of the top of the engine, is this normal for the puma? Was led to believe that I may need to fit a full breather kit at some point but may just extend these to the top of the snorkel instead unless anyone thinks that's a bad idea?
Post #425995 24th May 2015 10:19pm
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theorangebandit



Member Since: 03 Jun 2013
Location: Stowmarket
Posts: 862

Create access any way you see fit to buddy, the time will increase on the job but it will at least be done right.

The breather pipes finish at the top of the engine on all defenders its simply how they do it. Extending those breathers with quick connecters' and lengths of pipe will do the trick nicely bud. Which is exactly how we all do it. Quick connectors and pipe costs very little
Post #426029 25th May 2015 6:15am
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Eau02467



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 48

Scotland 
sorted, running better and a much quieter self clean cycle just annoyed that a 45 minute job took nearly 5 and a half hours
Post #426242 25th May 2015 9:59pm
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Cheshire110



Member Since: 26 Jul 2013
Location: Cheshire/London
Posts: 2724

United Kingdom 
Mines blanked and deactivated, runs much nicer at tickover and starts easier Thumbs Up

2.4 110 Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8.
Post #426261 25th May 2015 11:27pm
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