 | Home > Technical > Help with lurch/clunk when pulling away.... |
 
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201   
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Having a strange issue with our 110. When pulling away there is a strange lurch when pulling away from stationary. If I gently lift the clutch from stationary the car takes up drive (no clunks) and starts to move off, then after a small movement it lurches/clunks almost like you had dropped the clutch too quickly.
For other reasons the car has just had a full front axle rebuild. Also today fitted all around springs, dampers, radius arms and trailing arms. None of these have helped. A frame ball joint was replaced for a lemforder one about 4 months ago which at the time got rid of the terrible clunk when changomg gear or pulling away. A frame bushes are a little worn but dont seem to have excessive play with the pry bar which would generate this movement. Rear propshaft was replaced about 5k ago. Front prop seems fine. Car had a new dmf and clutch just before we bought it but I do not know the brand fitted (possibly cheap). Have tried the car in diff lock. The symptoms are the same. Although it seems that if I accelerate from a standstill then dip the clutch and brake gently, it doesnt always seem to do it all the time when pulling away. On another possibly unrelated/related note the clutch does judder terribly when pulling away unless you are gentle with the clutch/use higher revs. Can anyone suggest anything, hoping its not going to be gearbox issues, although im sure it cant be. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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1st Nov 2014 6:33pm |
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| muckybeast Member Since: 07 Mar 2014 Location: kildare Posts: 13  
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try you half shafts cheap and easy fix I had the same syptoms on mine before I replaced them
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1st Nov 2014 7:34pm |
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| Fifth Horseman Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 322 
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Have you checked the engine and transfer box mountings, if these are failing then this could be the cause of the judder, also check all the bolts are tight.
Other than that I think judder when releasing the clutch is most likely to be the clutch or DMF itself. The clonk when pulling away could be the a frame ball joint again, although unlikely as a quality replacement was used. In my experience pay in the drive flange splines presents more as a click than a clonk and more usually when changing direction (forwards/reverse). You mentioned that you had checked the A frame bushes, but have you checked the radius arm bushes, especially the ones at the chassis end, these do wear and can cause vague handling as well but are also easy to replace. Unfortunately the other cause of a clonk when pulling away is gearbox related, specifically the gearbox output shaft splines where they fit into the transfer box input gear. You do not mention the milage of your 110 but if its high then this is more of a possibility, although was supposed to be "fixed" on later boxes. To visually check you can remove the PTO cover plate on the rear of the transfer case, use wheel chocks to stop the vehicle moving, then with the box in gear and the handbrake off (engine off) jack one rear wheel off the ground and get someone to rotate the wheel back and forwards whilst you look for play. I hope it ends up being something cheap. BTDT |
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1st Nov 2014 9:53pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201
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Thanks for that.
I replaced the radius arm bushes when I re-fitted the refurbished front axle so they should be okay. The front axle has good CV joints with Ashcroft HD drive flanges so no slack in them. Rear axle drive flanges are fairly new I had the bottom cover off the transfer box not long ago to change the gasket and had a poke around whilst I was in there. Didn't see anything with excessive play. I will whip the PTO cover off and take the input gear out to check the splines anyway though so I can hopefully rule this out. The truck has done just over 100k The strange thing is that it only seems to do it after you have started moving away, not as you take up any slack in the drivetrain. Had a bit more of a play with it when I went out earlier and it doesn't seem to do it at all if I set off in second gear or in low range! I am starting to think that it is a clutch/dmf problem. I will have another pry of the a-frame bushes and ball joint to make sure that is okay and hasn't come loose or anything. Other than that I am out of ideas really! Cheers Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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1st Nov 2014 11:07pm |
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| flying_low Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Masai Mara Posts: 19  
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Hi,
Did you find the problem was the gearbox output shaft splines then? Just wondering am dealing with very similar symptoms that ended in complete loss o drive with no other warning signs that there was anything wrong. Turns out it might be the intermediate shaft bb/w g-box and t-box. Splines worn. This is on a 2011 2.4 puma tdci which has the MT82 gbox mind. Anyway be interesting to know what you found? Thanks! 2011 110 Tdci 1982 Range Rover V8 Classic (Gone) |
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19th Jan 2015 10:31pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201
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Sorry meant to update! Problem turned out to be the ckutch hydraulics (or lack of!). Other half asked me to have a look at it as the pedal didnt feel right and it had randomly stalled with foot still down. After finding the clutch master empty i pulled the slave cylinder out to find it was very wet with fluud and didnt operate smoothly. Master was also a bit scabby.
Changed both and bled and judder/lurch dissapeared almost straight away. Pefal does feel a little heavier than before. I think the lurch was due to the slave sticking and the judder was due to fluid contaminating the clutch friction plate. Hope that helps someone else. Dont think the mt82 uses the same slave design though. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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19th Jan 2015 11:07pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201
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Well to re-open this. The issue has returned again. Doesnt seem to get any better once warmed up. Will investigate the fuel pressure regulator I think in case its leaking into the clutch. I am going to take the wading/drain plug out of the bellhousing i think to make sure no liquid has accumulated in the bottom of it.
I am certain this is not driveline (post clutch) related though as it happens after you have already started pulling away so all of the slack has already been taken up Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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2nd Feb 2015 2:43pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1762 
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Hi Steve
I had a problem with the FPR on the Td5 peeing diesel onto the bell housing and starter when the engine was running, whn fitting the new FPR and starter I gave the clutch and bell housing wash out and a good spray with cleaner, it removed the worst of the contamination and reduced the judder. Hope you get to the bottom of it. Cheers John 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon 1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 250D XS |
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2nd Feb 2015 4:12pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346 
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I would be interested to know the outcome of this as I have very similar symptoms too.
Only ever happens in first gear, never in reverse, low range or any other gears. Feels like your not giving the engine enough revs and it (the vehicle not the engine) judders but once you have started moving. In a weird way feels like the axles are "fighting " each other a bit i.e. one is moving, then the other. Also can feel like the handbrake is grabbing but doesn't get warm or do it in both directions so not that. Only thing I have changed was new clutch and flywheel - before this it never happened. Also changed rear drive flanges but made no noticeable difference. Interesting what you say about the clutch hydraulics- will give them an investigate over the weekend. I have had a pair of technicians look at it, first one suspected drive flanges, the other I could not replicate it for despite having done it all the way to the garage  Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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2nd Feb 2015 10:43pm |
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| Sam. Member Since: 05 Feb 2015 Location: Bristol Posts: 3
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We had a bad clunk that ended up being very worn UJ's on the centre prop...
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5th Feb 2015 10:22pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266  
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any up dates ?
dodgy clutch master cylinder? |
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26th Jun 2015 7:39am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2201
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The problem persists. I am 99% sure that it is either the clutch or DMF causing the issue. Problem disappears completely once fully warmed up.
The FPR does look as though it is developing a leak but has not changed the symptoms at all. Currently just living with the judder as the clutch/flywheel is only about 7000 miles old but is unknown brand as it was fitted before we bought it (most likely britpart or similar) Will stick a new clutch, flywheel, rear mainseal and FPR on it later in the year. Cheers Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread 84' 90 3.9 V8 Caged Pickup Build Thread - Now For Sale |
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26th Jun 2015 10:06am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6266
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hope it holds up until you get round to it
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26th Jun 2015 1:50pm |
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