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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
Engine cutting out at Motorway speeds
Hi everybody. I'm having an intermittent problem with my 110, that's really starting to grate on me.

I just got back from a long Easter trip, where on the autostrada/motorway, it was stopping intermittently.

For the first hour, I can charge along at 75mph with no problems, then it seems to choke up, and the engine stops. If I pull it over to the hard shoulder, it will immediately restart (in fact, even if I dip the clutch and bump start it after turning the ignition switch off and back on, it will bump start at speed, and extinguish the warning light)) But usually it will do it again every few KM's.

I reached my destination, and drove it around locally with no issues, even doing a couple of green lanes.

But then on my return journey, driving at motorway speed, after an hour it started all over again. On the return journey, it persistently did this at any speed over 55mph, meaning it has become less intermittent, which might make it easier for a workshop to analyse it properly...

I've put in injector cleaner recently (just incase), I've WD40'd every electrical connector, and cleaned the big red plug that goes into the ECU under my seat. Does this scream "obvious" to anybody? I'd really appreciate any thoughts.

Last edited by Limey on 18th Jun 2014 11:02am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #325397 22nd Apr 2014 7:28pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443
England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I've recently been having a problem along the same lines but mine has been completely conking out going uphill, completely normal on the flat and downhill. Cleaning the injector harness cured it for a short while, putting a new one on did the same but it would still stop uphills, misfiring first, losing power then engine stops. The MIL light was only on because the engine had stopped. After a pump change the problem has disappeared, just had a weekend with some longish trips and towing.
Post #325419 22nd Apr 2014 8:06pm
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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
Thanks for your input JWL, I think it's time that I took it in and got it plugged into to find the error code.
Post #325611 23rd Apr 2014 3:25pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443
England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
The trouble is that a lot of fuel flow problems won't show on the diagnostics, I have a nanocom1 and even when plugged into the PC all that it would show is injector imbalance...........that would have been lack of fuel to the injectors at the time of the problem. No fault codes were registered in the code log.
Post #325613 23rd Apr 2014 3:35pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265
2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Worth checking the Red plug at the ECU, if the Oil has made it all the way down. Changing the injector harness will stop further/new oil but the oil already in the loom will take a while to flush through.

Pull Red plug out at ECU if it's got oil in it clean it up and see if it improves, clean every few weeks until it stops leaching oil Twisted Evil
Post #325624 23rd Apr 2014 4:43pm
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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
When I took the red plug off the ECU the last time, it was swimming in oil. I'll keep an eye on it.

I'm hoping this doesn't turn into one of those long running issues. Shocked
Post #325665 23rd Apr 2014 7:36pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265
2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Buy some electrical contact cleaner and clean it out every few weeks

It will clear
Post #325729 23rd Apr 2014 10:50pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443
England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
Mine was swimming at the red plug as well, I began to suspect that with so much at the plug, that it had got through to the ECU itself. I even went as far as to take the ECU out and opened it up, there was no sign of any oil ingress into the business bit so have just resolved to keep cleaning the plug out with contact cleaner and a blast with the compressor.
Post #325735 23rd Apr 2014 10:58pm
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psimpson7



Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: Gold Coast, Qld.
Posts: 221
Australia 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Loire Blue
Possibly faulty crank position sensor would be my guess. see what the codes say.

I had one go 'noisy' at high revs 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto.
2003 90 td5 soft top.
2014 90 XS SW 2.2.
Post #325747 24th Apr 2014 12:45am
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897
England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Watch your temperature guage when it cuts.
If it goes high it indicates going into 'limp' mode (105°C), means your radiator needs flushing either externally and/or internally. 
Post #325748 24th Apr 2014 2:09am
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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
Well I'm glad to read that even when swimming in oil, that the inside of the ECU was still dry, because I suspect that is a parts bill I don't want to pay. Since seeing the shocking amount of oil that was sitting inside the red ECU plug connector, I'll just build it in as a regular check and clean job (forever probably)

Although even when clean, the cutting out problem continues, unfortunately.

I tend to always keep an eye on the temp gauge in any vehicle, and even when it was stalling on me maddeningly regularly, it was still in the perfect spot re. engine temp. However, I've no idea when the rad was last flushed, so that might be an idea for the near future anyway.

I'll make myself remember to let you Gents know what the codes say, it will be next week I think. I'm quite happy repairing almost anything on a classic car (or bike) as I find the simplicity of them easy to understand, but I'll admit that I feel out of my depth on anything with sensors and an ECU. So while I am taking it to a new (to me) local workshop who seem good, I still wanted to ask for opinions on here: as firstly, the local LR dealership didn't actually resolve this problem, and so I'd like to be forearmed with some information before taking the 110 into this other workshop, and secondly, because I would like to understand what's going on with my own vehicle.

It worries me that this could be anything from a sensor, to a fuel pump, to sediment in the tank, etc. etc. That the codes only give you a vague direction, and that an LR dealer already tried to address it, without success.
Post #325776 24th Apr 2014 9:02am
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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
Info for you guys who tried to help with analysing my problem, the ECU code identified the problem as the crank position sensor. So I'm hoping that's the end of the silly issues, for a while at least.
Post #328287 4th May 2014 4:07pm
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psimpson7



Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: Gold Coast, Qld.
Posts: 221
Australia 2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Loire Blue
Glad its an easy fix. As I said mine did this with the exact same symptoms 2001 90 HT 6.0LS/6spdAuto.
2003 90 td5 soft top.
2014 90 XS SW 2.2.
Post #328428 5th May 2014 12:47am
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Limey



Member Since: 18 Oct 2013
Location: Northern Italy
Posts: 193
Italy 
An addition,

The sensor was fitted, the Landie started up and revved, and the check engine light came straight back on. The workshop have diagnosed this as being caused by the flywheel, i.e. it is running out of true in some way, and therefore skimming the tip of the crank sensor. So, has anybody else ever encountered this?

Last edited by Limey on 18th Jun 2014 11:04am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #329661 9th May 2014 3:13pm
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Macpaul



Member Since: 26 Mar 2013
Location: SW Surrey
Posts: 439
United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Loire Blue
Seems odd but IF that is happening, you can put a spacer between the crank position sensor hole and the sensor itself, distancing the tip from the flywheel.

It looks like this:



Click image to enlarge 2003 Td5 110 Hardtop
Now a 2013 110 USW too.
Post #329664 9th May 2014 3:16pm
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