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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
Replacing rear wiring loom
The electrics to my rear lights is pretty much shot, I have completely lost one earth and when cutting back a live, the wires are all green and will not solder so forcing a temporary crimped joint.

Where do people normally cut back to when running new cables? all the way to the fuse box? 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #300174 19th Jan 2014 8:17am
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lambert.the.farmer



Member Since: 11 Apr 2012
Location: harrogate
Posts: 2006

England 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Rutland Red
On the basis of do it right do it once I would be inclined to agree or better still a whole new loom more work but better results. Rhubarb and custard let fly with their secret weapon.
Post #300179 19th Jan 2014 8:29am
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RobKeay



Member Since: 19 Jul 2009
Location: Stafford
Posts: 1568

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
You can buy a complete new rear loom. Think I got mine from autosparks. Wont break the bank.
Post #300214 19th Jan 2014 10:37am
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
Rob, that looks a great price. I'm struggling to remember, where does it all plug in, is it on the fwd side of the bulkhead in the engine bay? 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #300246 19th Jan 2014 12:09pm
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dondiddy



Member Since: 13 Nov 2012
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 224

Scotland 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
It plugs in under the bonnet on the drivers side of the bulkhead. Most peple run the new loom along the top of the chasiss to the rear rather than through the chassis like the original. If you do it that way it is a good idea to get some plastic conduit or similar to help protect the loom. If you run it through the chassis tape the new loom to the old one so that you can use it to pull the new one through the chassis. Its a bit of a hassle but it can be done! Smile
Post #300248 19th Jan 2014 12:19pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 487

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
thanks Don, I remeber the plugs there from when I changed the chassis, just wasn't totally sure they were the rear loom ones. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #300249 19th Jan 2014 12:23pm
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dondiddy



Member Since: 13 Nov 2012
Location: Hamilton
Posts: 224

Scotland 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Hi Dave, Much easier to do when the body`s off but not really too bad as access under the bonnet is quite good! Up until recently I had a 2008 Puma,now got a 1998 Wolf but some of the pins on the plugs on the Puma wiring to the rear lights had corroded away due to water getting in so had to be repaired. What I thought was a quick 2 minute job to change a blown brake light bulb ended up a much bigger job! Laughing
Post #300254 19th Jan 2014 12:39pm
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
The people that do my vehicle M.O.T.'s informed me that all cables run outside the chassis need to be encased in plastic conduit then tie wrapped, this is due to changes in the regs. I cannot find any ref to this on the web but it may be worth checking with however does your vehicle. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #300255 19th Jan 2014 12:41pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
It might be worth thinking about using multi-core trailer cable to recreate the rear wiring loom. I guess it depends on how bad it really is.

Also, if you are struggling to get solder to stick to old blackened wires there is a very easy way to clean them up ready to take solder. [Que suitable backing soundtrack] It is time to raid the kitchen cupboards... All you need is some white spirit vinegar and a J-cloth. Dowse the cloth in vinegar and wipe over the exposed wires, making sure to get the vinegar in to the twisted wires. After a little light rubbing the wires will lose the black oxidation and will return to shiny, solder-able metal again. This method works even better if you can leave the wires to soak in a container of vinegar.

Might mean you do not have to by a new loom...
Post #300278 19th Jan 2014 2:42pm
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