 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Defender 90 Access Panel for Fuel Pump "How To" |
 
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| pj2106 Member Since: 20 Dec 2012 Location: Huntingdon AKA The Shire Posts: 1500   
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Hi All,
after some issues with my TD5 running lumpy I narrowed it down to the in tank pump being fubar. I really didn't want to remove the tank and therefore decided to make an access panel in the floor. Measurements and Pics on how I did it below: standing at the bank of the vehicle measure 330mm from far back edge of rear cross member. then measure 400mm from bottom of left hand side wheel tub centre the 2 measurements and make a square hole 200mm squared I used a angle grinder so I could control the depth of the cut as at the sides there isn't a lot of clearance underneath to the tank about 25-30mm prise the cut out section there will be a rivet holding it to the tub floor support I then cut the support out as this makes it so much easier but I'm sure it could be done left in place if you really wanted Then clean and hoover any loose dust/dirt/crap out from round the pump retaining ring the retaining ring undoes anti clockwise and has notches on it to be able to use a blunt screwdriver etc to help undo it pump is sprung loaded to putting some pressure on the pump will help to undo also I then removed the old pump being careful not to break the pipe retainers as you can't buy these seperateley (only with a new pump or new pipes) once out I gave the aperture a good clean before fitting the new pump replace the retainer clips if you have them then fit the new rubber seal in the top of the aperture place new pump into position with the retaining ring on as difficult to get past the pipes once pump is in push down pump and replace retaining ring (pump is sprung loaded so some downward force is needed. once in and secure refit pipes and lastly the plug once I checked that all was ok I then ran the fuel prime sequence and miracle she started straight up. I then cut a 3mm piece of alloy 230mm square to give 15mm overlap all round I then cut a piece of sound proofing to fit the hole I had cut and fitted to underside of panel I then placed panel over hole and drilled 12 holes equally around then I put some silicone underneath replaced panel and pop riveted in place it now sit exactly flush with the sound proofing and doesn't protrude at all. I will replace the carpet all back to normal  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I hope this helps anyone who needs to do the same thing  2008 110 2.4 XS Utility (Hagrid)
2002 90 TD5 Hardtop (Sully) Sold 1998 300TDi D1 (Billy) Sold |
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12th Jan 2014 5:52pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578
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Well done Paul.
Daniel of Mungo in Australia has been doing an access panel for some years now. His fitting instructions which includes diagrams with measurements can be found here Sometimes a diagram is easier to follow then words. Brendan |
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12th Jan 2014 6:39pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1411 
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Excellant write up and pictures
 Top Man for shareing - Worth making a sticky Martin ? |
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12th Jan 2014 7:14pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1534
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Good write up
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12th Jan 2014 7:51pm |
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| Laurie Member Since: 22 Feb 2008 Location: Sussex, England Posts: 2897  
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Having removed one of the floor braces does the floor flex under load?
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12th Jan 2014 7:56pm |
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