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excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5744

1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue

Trailer axle help

Just picked up one of these wee beasties

this is the brake linkage

Click image to enlarge

This is the axle

Click image to enlarge

The drums have the markings, Axles Watford HB 6-10

Questions.
How does this type of brake linkage work? from what I have tried it looks like the rods going to each drum brake operate when the rods are pushed inwards and release when pulled outwards?

Any ideas on the maker of the drums? A quick google doesn't show much

Next task is to get the drums off, which might be easier said than done as the brakes on one have seized.
Looking the hubs, there is a split pin and a big castle nut that comes off and hopefully the drum will pull off. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

1st Dec 2013 2:32pm

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey

Looks old enough to be Ford 100E based.
Many caravans and trailers up to the '70s used 100E wheels, hubs and brakes.

1st Dec 2013 2:52pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5744

Cheers Laurie, it did come with leaf springs as well. I can tell you its bloomin heavy and has no hydraulic brakes .though. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

1st Dec 2013 2:59pm

Laurie

Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

Trailer brakes would use the car handbrake mechanism.

1st Dec 2013 3:21pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White

The rods would have to pull to put on the brakes to apply enough force into the system.

I was under the impression all 'new' trailer now have to have auto reverse brakes fitted if over a certain weight, over run brakes with a reverse 'blocker' either manual or electric off the reverse lights can't be fitted. Quite how any one wold know if it were new or a rebuild is a different matter.

Good luck, are penetrating oil, copper/hide hammers and hammerite on your Christmas list?

Keith

1st Dec 2013 3:55pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5744

I am aware that trailer uses the hand brake mechanism, what I meant was there are nohydraulics fittings so wasn't sure on it being a car hub., Unless 100E's used cable operated rear brakes?

Copper hammer I have, penetrating fluid I need to buy and hammerite...errr no. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

1st Dec 2013 4:47pm

238kirk

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

The brake rods look the same kind of layout to the drum braked sankeys, can't remember if they push or pull though, yours do look like they push to operate the brakes

1st Dec 2013 5:20pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5744

The rods do indeed push to operate , which I assume is via strong rod and not attached via a small shackle as it is now. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

1st Dec 2013 5:26pm

ickle

Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1728

Someone must have built that up wrongly then, a 24" length of 1/4" bright bar would flex too much in compression, but under tension would work well.

Hence the D shackle on the front that was either attached to a hand brake or over run brake hitch with a flexible steel cable.

Shackle is pulled forward, pulls either bar in.

1st Dec 2013 5:35pm

238kirk

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

Yeah the sankeys have 3 the same as the 2 you have going to the wheels, d shackle thing looks odd

1st Dec 2013 5:36pm

238kirk

Member Since: 03 Nov 2012
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 233

The sankey defiantly pull to operate, your best option is to strip it to see how it works (which you'll probably be doing anyway) and take it from there, what are your plans for it anyway?

1st Dec 2013 5:51pm

excossack

Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5744

ickle wrote:
Someone must have built that up wrongly then, a 24" length of 1/4" bright bar would flex too much in compression, but under tension would work well.

Hence the D shackle on the front that was either attached to a hand brake or over run brake hitch with a flexible steel cable.

Shackle is pulled forward, pulls either bar in.

Just been out and tested, if I push the broken rod in the drum thats free stops and release it works.
So if I swap the rods over, broken bit going to the left and the remaining rod going to the right wheel.
As shown in the picture below.
Blue arrow being the hand brake being put on & pull direction.
Red arrows showing the swapping around of the rods.

Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

1st Dec 2013 5:54pm

Romadog

Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1746

A friend of mine has a trailer with this type of mechanism. I found this out when we tipped it on its side to sort the electrics out. We then realised that the rods werent functioning correctly and some were seized. The threads were Whitworth I think and the rods of different lengths. He just re cut a thread on some metric threaded bar and a good coating of copper grease every where to aid adjustment in the future.

1st Dec 2013 7:33pm

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