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jont



Member Since: 02 Apr 2011
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 242

2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Santorini Black
wiring size/gauge ?
Any advice on the gauge/thickness/rating of the wires I would need to go from the battery/earth terminals to something like the Blue Sea 6 fuse box ?

Thinking of using it to power the sub, spotlights and rear camera - and some spares - so no heavy load apart from the spots - but would have a relay in-line for those like below: (thanks to Paul at landrover-connectors for the pic and a cheap genuine aux lighting switch Thumbs Up )


Click image to enlarge
Post #273628 14th Oct 2013 11:43am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
0 gauge for that. Amp and spots combined are big on power draw.
Personally I would keep the amp power feed independent from the rest for best performance and power transfer. Also the earth should be relatively short.
I'd also be looking at Autoleads proflex, not cheap but well worth it. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #273634 14th Oct 2013 12:28pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19677

United Kingdom 
Better to go over kill than not enough and if you want to add something that will draw too much power, your current power cables will be useless and you'll have to buy unrated ones and refit yet again. Not cheap or a job you'd want to do often.

Some to look at here: http://www.incarmusic.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=0+gauge
Depends really on what power the items consume. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #273637 14th Oct 2013 12:45pm
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mikeh501



Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1142

United Kingdom 
ive got a similar setup as your wanting to build but with more accessories.

I believe the Blue sea 6 way fuse box is rated for 100 amps so i wired mine with cable which would take at least 100 amps, and put an inline fuse in there too at 150 amps IIRC.

Given im not old enough to remember SWG/AWG I sorted it out like this!
1.) add up the load in watts for the thing(s) you are wiring. It will say on bulbs or amp etc. Your looking for maximum watts i guess on the AMP.
2.) Now youve got your total watts number e.g 500watts.
3.) Divide 500 by 12. 12 because your landie is powered by 12 volts. Tip: I normally divide by 10 to give a little headroom as the lower the voltage the higher the amps!
4.) That gives you the number of amps you need.
5.) goto this website (or others) and pick out the cable you need which will carry at least the amps necessary, and then go for the one which is next size up (within reason)
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...inwall.php
6.) You will see that in our example 500watts of load gives us approx 50 amps, and a 7mm2 cable gives us 57 amps.

(only caveat im aware of is that the longer the cable the lower the amps you can pass through it, but runs of 10' or less doesnt make a big difference)

Id also chuck one of these into the power feed to your fuse box.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...lders2.php
MEGA Fuse holder and 150amp megafuse.
Post #273640 14th Oct 2013 12:51pm
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
Just did my Blue Sea - Original earth and (1st) battery cables remain 50mm2, live cables between batteries and Blue Sea are 35mm2, cables between 2nd battery/earth and fuse box are 25mm2.

Tim at Mobile Centre sorted them out for me and they work a treat Thumbs Up Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #273669 14th Oct 2013 2:55pm
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leeds



Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8578

United Kingdom 
The Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block is rated at 100 amps total current per block with a maximum of 30 amps per circuit.


As a rough rule of thumb on larger cross section area cables you are looking at 7-8 amps continuous rated per square mm of cable.

Much easier to remember that then SWG/AWG/CSA against continuous current ratings.



Brendan
Post #274194 16th Oct 2013 10:36am
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ZeDefender



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Germany 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue
That's a neat way of calculating it - useful in future Thumbs Up Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...
Post #274241 16th Oct 2013 2:02pm
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jont



Member Since: 02 Apr 2011
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 242

2006 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Santorini Black
So gone for some of this (CM16) to wire the fuse box in to battery:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...ycable.php

and some of this (ref 65) to go to spot lamps/relay:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...dcable.php

Does that look about right ?
Post #274540 17th Oct 2013 2:34pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Sorry to hijack but what relay etc (diagram would be good if anyone has time) should I use if I don't want to rig the spots upto the main beam? I just want to run an led light bar from the switch without being on with the main beam.
Cheers
Ray
Post #274544 17th Oct 2013 2:41pm
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