 | Home > Tdi > Good Price for a clutch? |
 
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| theorangebandit Member Since: 03 Jun 2013 Location: Stowmarket Posts: 862  |
No idea why you need a crane the box drops away from the engine nicely. Then its simple remove the old clutch and bolt on the new using the corect torquing pattern then refit box. But the output seal is even easier prop off the strip down had brake drum access seal. Seal out new in rebuild. It makes no sense to me to remove the engine when the box drops away so easily. If your output seal is gone change the output seal and leave the Clutct unless you think its actually gone
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2nd Oct 2013 1:04am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3346  
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Have thaught about doing it that way as would meen I could do the rear Crank Seal and spilt the gearbox and transfer box and do all there seals at the same time.
Reason for doing the clutch at the same time is that as I need to split the gearbox and engine anyway to get to the rear crank seal so makes sense to do it as im in the area because I'd only kick myself later. Plus I think the amount of oil from the rear crank may have contaminated it. Only fly in the ointment would be how to go about removing the gearbox and transfer box as they are both very heavy. |
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2nd Oct 2013 7:25am |
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| Mattyboy Member Since: 05 Dec 2012 Location: Sudbury Posts: 58 
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A good independent will do that job in a day and charge you half that, I know a couple in Essex but is that a bit too far? 07 Defender 90 TDCI
98 Defender 90 300 Tdi Land Rover Freelander MG B GT CBR 600 AEC Matador but no washing machine |
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2nd Oct 2013 1:51pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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Not the same but I just paid £800 for new TD5 clutch and Dual mass few. All OE parts fully fitted etc at a well respected Indy.
Could have got it cheaper at Mr Clutch etc but happier having it done by LR specialists |
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2nd Oct 2013 7:26pm |
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| theorangebandit Member Since: 03 Jun 2013 Location: Stowmarket Posts: 862 |
Buy a jack and then get a gearbox fork for the end on it that will take the weight while dropping the box. Or rent a friend and lift it together . Second option is the hernier option lol. Investigate the clutch first them things are good for a 100k miles. Them seal. Dont always leak inwards you may well be safe on that
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2nd Oct 2013 10:37pm |
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| Litch Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 760 
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What engine, looking at your previous posts I am assuming 200TDi?
Just done the clutch on my 300TDi, didn't need doing (it had only covered 35K miles from new) but I was having the bulkhead galvanised so it made sense to do a few other jobs while the vehicle was off the road. I already had the floor & seatbox out (I was having the battery-box galvanised at the same time) so obviously I went for the gearbox out option. Didn't use a hoist, I just removed the gearbox (R380) & transfer-box as one lump but they are very heavy so split them to refit (still done manually). As for the parts used, the original factory fit clutch was made by Valeo so I went to for a Valeo cover, 8-spring 130 Valeo plate plus HD fork & metal sleeved release bearing. While I was about it I replaced the master & slave cylinders, flexi-hose, clutch pedal assembly (for the later type with double coil spring) and cranshaft oil-seal, gearbox & transfer-box input oil-seals etc. That little lot came in at under £250 and everything was genuine and/or OE. Timescale, no reason why you couldn't get it done in a weekend singlehanded DIY as long as you had all the parts ready. Items like the seatbox etc actually come out quite quickly but make sure you have new fixings to hand (some might need cutting off and it is always nicer to rebuild using new parts where possible). ONE LIFE, GET IT! |
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4th Oct 2013 12:01pm |
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