 | Home > In Car Electronics > Anderson connector/10AWG Cable |
 
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
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Started the wiring in earnest today. The beauty about using 35mm DIN mounted Wago is the fact I can always mount DIN fuses if the Blu Sea reaches full capacity and they will still all be contained in the same place. Have to run the six core cable plus ground from the battery bay passenger side to the driver's side, I may even run a second cable giving me future capacity for roof/rack lights planned. (Second relay within box is spare and will be paralelled off with existing one later).
DIN rail mounted fuseholder with 12v LED that illuminates if fuse ruptures.  Click image to enlarge Main Auxiliary Distribution. Click image to enlarge Driver's side box to 'pick up' existing automotive relay wiring to transfer to battery bay main box. Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th May 2013 6:31pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745 
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That looks complicated! 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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20th May 2013 8:23pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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^^^
Believe me it's not as complicated as what's there at the moment and it will make any future additions so simple as the supplies and most of the wiring will already be there either under the driver's or passenger's seat. Fuses can be added at will and potentially the limiting factor will be the 70 amp carrying capacity of the 10mm cable, but I should get nowhere near that with my current plans.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th May 2013 8:45pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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The box with the relays and the fusebox therein gets connected straight to the battery thereby supplying the fusebox on the right hand side (protected by a 60 amp fuse). The two feeds from the fusebox going to the uppermost relay are for my Lightforces each feed will be individually protected by a 10 amp fuse.
Four cores of the seven core cable are the outputs of the relay (2 off) and the positive and negative of the coil of the relay (another two cables), the remaining three are currently spare. The seven core cable (together with perhaps another seven core cable) will be routed from the battery bay, under the vehicle into the driver's side and connected to the second junction box where it will connect to the existing feeds for the lights together with the dip/main beam feed (to activate the relay) and the earth of the relay will be switched by the Lightforce OEM dash isolation switch (currently connected to standard automotive relays which will be stripped out and binned). I also have a subwoofer to connect to the fusebox and a cooling fan for the subwoofer both fuses of which are already in the vicinity of the battery bay. All fuses and relays will be in one convenient waterproof box adjacent to the battery and I will have two (maybe three) spare fuses in the fusebox and 10 spare cores ready for future projects already fitted and routed in preparation. Hope this makes sense. Does to me but then it should.....  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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20th May 2013 10:13pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Ran in two 7 core cables from the battery bay to the driver's side bay this afternoon. Got rid of the old automotive relays and wired up the junction box as planned. Second 7 core cable is a spare as mentioned for any future additions/modifications.
Click image to enlarge Tucked the box out of harms way and secured with velcro for easy removal and access to work on in future. Click image to enlarge Passenger's side distribution box is currently lying in footwell just needs a few circuits connecting, old fuses removing and placing in compartment. Ain't the lighter evenings just great? If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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22nd May 2013 7:19pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19645
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Busy confusing laymen again I see Mal.
 Looks nice and neat though! Much better than having a jumble all over the place and that ends up even more complicated I reckon. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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22nd May 2013 10:45pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Didn't finish work til late and wanted to get down to Poole Quay for 4X4 night. Did get there....but a bit late by the time I finished wiring up the Landy.
60 Amp Mega Fuse connected up and velcro fixed to battery. Click image to enlarge All finished and 'boxed up' under passenger seat. Two spare fuses in fusebox (as many as I wish on DIN rail) four spare earths and 10 cable cores running from box on passenger side to driver's side. Should take the toil out of any future additions. Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th May 2013 9:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19645
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Looks near on perfect Mal.
Just the way I like to see things myself too. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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24th May 2013 10:00pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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The subwoofer connector, various in-line fuses and lots of wiring used to be directly under the passenger seat, everything but the wires feeding out from the ancilliary supply box is now neatly tucked away. OCD does have it's benefits in giving you the motivation to do something about it.
Happy with the end result and glad I had the foresight to run in extra cables for furure useage, didn't fancy getting caked in waxoyl and grease thrown off my propshaft joints all over again feeding more cables later. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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24th May 2013 10:41pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19645
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I've got the same thinking with what I'm doing too. I thought when I have to take the headlining out I ought to sort out anything else I want up under there at the same time there and then at least so the wiring is there even if not wired up. Hate having to dismantle all the time just to do one thing and not only that it can put wear and tear on items too can't it.
Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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25th May 2013 12:02am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5745
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Got the rear Anderson wiring in today, ran the wire main + feed from the under the drivers seat, along with the fuel lines and looped up into the rear light wiring area and then looped out down to the towbar bracket. The reason for looping into rear light wiring area is so I can fit a kill switch in the rear mounted to the metal cover that hides the wires for the rear lights.
One of these kill switches > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PWN736-Switch-Ba...27cb63b8f6 Realised I didn't order the covers for the Anderson plugs and didn't have any heat shrink tube so ordered them and also need to get some stainless screws to mount the plug. Once the I rewire and fit the Carling switches I will do away with the rear kill switch and control the power with a Carling and a decent relay such as > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/70-80-amp-Relay-...5656206342 For an earth I ran it back into the lighting wire area and earthed to the body/Same wire as the towing wiring. Just the front one to do next. Oh and while sorting out the wiring box I found another 3 pairs of Anderson plugs I didn't know I had ! 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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25th May 2013 8:36pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8578
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AWG to mm2 conversion can be found HERE
As a rough rule of thumb when talking about reasonable cable size their current capacity is about 7 to 8 amps per mm2 |
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25th May 2013 10:39pm |
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| Christian Member Since: 23 Feb 2013 Location: Doha Posts: 66  
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This topic is of the highest interest to me
I really like the idea of tidying up everything with DIN rails. Although, the relays with such a mount are usually limited to 16A, if not less. Above, we already are talking about contactors, and they get huge and expensive. Do you have anything in mind to go for high amps switching, while sticking to rail mount ? I hate dealing with automotive relays and their connectors that don't tight well to big cables... Chris |
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27th May 2013 3:19pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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I dislike the automotive relays for the same reason and the fact for a little more outlay you can get indicator relays such as the ones I got that take any reasonable size cables up to 4mm. Higher amperage compact contactors are readily available but the higher the amperage the higher the cost. Page one here on the link below has contactors 12VDC coils up to 80 amps all 35mm DIN mounted. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&...5&y=28 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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27th May 2013 4:47pm |
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