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Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS DCPU Tonga Green

Just a quick question:

You say you want to mount a winch and a tow ball to your front bumper......... If the winch is the same height as the tow ball your winch rope would have to go up and over the headboard/ top part of the flat bed which means it won't be workable.

If for recovery- as above get a smaller winch mounted to the trailer and Anderson connectors- it also means you just pull up, winch whatever onto the back, strap down and drive off- no need to mess around un-hitching, turning around, re-hitching, winching, strapping down, un-hitching, turning around, re-hitching, driving off.

If winching a vehicle with trailer (3.5 ton) out of a field you don't need anything massively chunky as you will not be 'properly bogged in'. Something like a simple 4 ton (metric) winch with a snatch block will do the trick. But also think about what you are going to winch off...... you will have to think about ground anchors etc. A cheaper option will be to look into waffle boards/ sand ladders/ traction mats as then you just throw them down in the areas you are likely to lose traction.

HD springs- again as above- wait and see how she feels before worrying about it. I have a TJM bull bar with Warn 8274 which is very heavy- it took 2 years for the front springs to get really tired and needed changing.

Glyn

27th Jan 2013 9:41am

Birdy

Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: CÃ´te d'Azur
Posts: 855

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

“I would not fit a winch without heavier rated springs”

It depends how long you intend to keep the vehicle… If you’re gonna thrash it and it’ll be gone in a couple of years there’s not much to be gained.

My 110 TD5 (ROW HD spec but I think the front springs remain standard - the anoraks can confirm) was fitted from new with a Husky and, over time, the front of the truck DID sag.

Peter

27th Jan 2013 6:17pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7710

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

you could go for a higher load TDS 12,000LB one, which would cope admirably. its normally only the gearing that is changed for a greater pull, they use the same motor.

current draws for different motors are also worth considering. the lower it is the less extra stuff the vehicle would need for prolonged winching ops. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

28th Jan 2013 2:55pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

Go Beyond wrote:

Alternatively use a snatch block to effectively halve the load on the winch (although halve the speed as well) and get a smaller 8 / 9000lb version

This one again. You're not halving the load, you are halving the AMPS only. And depending on how many wraps are on the winch, the speed is actually unlikely to halve as there are less amps being used. It's a little slower but not half.

And I totaly disagree with "standard springs". If you put a winch on your vehicle and don't change the springs it will handle like an absolute dog. A decent set of springs will still mean you can turn into corners quickly and the vehicle will stay planted. For the price of a set of springs it's frankly daft not to do it.

28th Jan 2013 7:24pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7710

^^^ is correct.

in theory you halve the speed as twice the rope is out.

in reality as more ropes is off (remember you loose 1000lb for every layer on the drum) is easier going on the winch anyway, so current draw is less, plus you have the mech 2:1 adv. so speed will be slower but it wont be half. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

28th Jan 2013 8:15pm

BigMike

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

The mechanical advantage - on paper it helps but the reality is that if you use a snatch block the angle of the rope is so acute that any advantage you get is reduced considerably. If the wheel part of the snatch block was say, a foot in diameter then sure, there would be an advantage, but tiny as they are, it's too tight to really give you much.

Anyway, HD springs are a must I say. I've driven defenders with and without HD springs with winches and can say that on standard springs the vehicle handles like a sofa sitting on a beachball at each corner

29th Jan 2013 10:11am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16933

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

60k plus miles since I fitted a Husky (with wire rope) to my DC on standard springs.

No sag, no handling issues of any kind.

29th Jan 2013 10:49am

Glynparry25

Member Since: 16 Feb 2009
Location: Miserable Midlands
Posts: 3015

I have to agree with blackwolf- I first had my husky and now my 8274 on standard springs and had no problems with general every day driving/ off-road. The shocks on the other had took a battering and ended up changing mine for OME and Koni after 35k miles because of the type of driving I do.

Now, yes it feels a little more planted when hitting the harder-faster stuff off-road but in all honesty I wouldn't go any faster around a corner on road.

Glyn

29th Jan 2013 11:16am

BigWheels

Member Since: 21 Mar 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1405

2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

I've been considering whether a synthetic rope would make much difference for occassional use. More weight lower = better centre of gravity & fairleads + wire give more front protection. Heavier weight makes it harder to lift, an anti-theft deterrent maybe. Steel also less vandalisable.

Whiplash from a snapped steel cable is dangerous, apron or no. Cheap to replace & less attractive... Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender

9th Feb 2013 3:06pm

Go Beyond

Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6676

Another thing to consider with synthetic rope is it deteriorates in sunlight so should either be covered or removed when not in use ....

9th Feb 2013 3:24pm

BigWheels

Member Since: 21 Mar 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1405

Dyneema says its ropes are UV proof, not sure about others. But the muck it picks up needs cleaning off while steel only needs oiling. Land Rover Defenders. 67 years heritage, minimal appearance changes, still going strong all over the world. Not a fashion vehicle, but fashionable to own. Made for the needy, not the greedy. Ta ta Defender

9th Feb 2013 7:45pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7710

Go Beyond wrote:
Another thing to consider with synthetic rope is it deteriorates in sunlight so should either be covered or removed when not in use ....

the colour deteriorates but the properties of it dont.

i would cover it or remove to keep the road grime off it though.

for occasional use i would keep wire, it requires less after care work/cleaning. Cheers

James
110 XS Utility
130 Puma Station wagon/camper (in the making)
90 Puma Hardtop

12th Feb 2013 8:27am

Undergroundfrog

Member Since: 27 Jan 2013
Location: Herts
Posts: 31

2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Baltic Blue

speedymarktd6 wrote:
chadjizz wrote:
i am also thinking about getting a winch. just to chuck another question in the mix.... whats the max power winch you could run.... i have a 130 and tow trailer loads of fencing into feilds, so if i get stuck i could be winching min 3.5ton. im thinking a superwinch talon 18000lb (8ton) (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120915766659?ssP...1423.l2649) or is that just going to rip the front bumper off!!!!!

I would go for a milemarker hyd of the power steering on a 130 there wouldnt be a lot in it price wise

Hmmm, mine is a MM hydraulic winch off the standard ps pump and it don't work in high at all, so be careful as you may be disappointed

12th Feb 2013 9:54pm

SteveG

Member Since: 29 Nov 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 656

BigMike wrote:
The mechanical advantage - on paper it helps but the reality is that if you use a snatch block the angle of the rope is so acute that any advantage you get is reduced considerably. If the wheel part of the snatch block was say, a foot in diameter then sure, there would be an advantage, but tiny as they are, it's too tight to really give you much.

Using a snatch block on a double line pull will roughly halve the load. The angle is not too acute and you don't need a foot wide pulley block.

Cheers

Steve

12th Feb 2013 10:41pm

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