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simon119

Member Since: 05 Apr 2012
Location: SG11, Herts
Posts: 40

Do any of you that have fitted a rev counter to a TD5 know the VDO part number for the counter, not the LR part number??

My dad does work for VDO, if someone knows their part number i'll get him to make a few inqueries next time he is there. See if there are any out the back as it were.

Cheers

Simon

4th Nov 2012 11:51am

Steve B

Member Since: 22 May 2009
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 586

The part in mine is a 333 015 009K.

Steve

4th Nov 2012 1:56pm

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

me@td5.org wrote:
I don't think it would be quite as simple as just switching to 4cyl but I suppose if we don't try we will never know. A simple assumption would be that the ECU sends out a wave that has a frequency the same as the engine speed. When I get my defender back I'll try and find out what it is doing.

Hmm, it seems it is almost that simple. This is based on internet research as I haven't yet been able to test it on the car.

The signal out from the ECU gives 2 pulses per revolution, much the same as most 4cyl petrol cars. So the frequency is not a problem the problem is the signal strength which would need to be at 12v rather than 5v. Not too difficult to fix though!

edit: Elsewhere the internet says it's a 12v output..so it seems the only way to be sure will be to test it. If it works then a £35 TIM Tacho and a £5 box of electronics may do just what we all need!

4th Nov 2012 5:12pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

bob neville wrote:
Jon is correct if you have ABS/TC - you have to tap into the existing wire on 19
<snip>
If you move the temp and fuel gauges along to the right so that the rev counter is next to the speedo you may have/want to extend some of the gauge wires as it is a bit tight.

The only other thing you need to do is find a SWITCHED 12v supply for the gauge (not the purple from the clock as that is permanently live), an earth for the gauge and the +/- for the lights.

All the extra wires are easy to run from the existing gauges, either splice in or use piggy back spade terminals (especially for the lights).

Bob

Thanks Bob and Jon. Mine does have ABD/TC so I'll have to tap into the existing line, I guess. I'll find the other connections from somewhere convenient behind the dash.

For the lights, I expected to re-use the existing one for the clock and just move them around to suit the gauges in their new positions. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

4th Nov 2012 6:28pm

farmer giles

Member Since: 09 Feb 2011
Location: worcestershire
Posts: 1299

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue

Click image to enlarge

when J E Engineering sorted out my TD5 with a rev counter they relocated the clock in a pod by the rear view mirror. Croytec used to sell similar types of pods that might fit?

hope this helps

5th Nov 2012 11:04am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

Thanks FG, that's an interesting solution. Unfortunately though, I'm going to be having a rear view camera screen there. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

5th Nov 2012 5:17pm

I.AM_a driver

Member Since: 11 Jun 2009
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Posts: 404

the standard analogue clock has one connector which includes the lights and the permanent live, so if you're using the ground from the clock for the tacho then you'll need a separate or piggy-backed ground for the illumination.

I didn't bother relocating the analogue clock as I use the digital clock on the stereo. Mark S
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Thread in 'My Defender' Forum

11th Nov 2012 4:33pm

chinnus

Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

did we get to the bottom of what the output of pin 19 on the ECU is? If that is enough to drive the VDO tacho then you wont need to spend the extra 30 odd quid to get the modified VDO tacho from croytec

26th Nov 2012 9:16am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11240

The VDO one that I have (which is now for sale) is a modified one that is designed to work from the output of pin 19. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

26th Nov 2012 9:26am

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

chinnus wrote:
did we get to the bottom of what the output of pin 19 on the ECU is? If that is enough to drive the VDO tacho then you wont need to spend the extra 30 odd quid to get the modified VDO tacho from croytec

I hope to have put a scope on it by the end of the week when my Defender is back. But as Anorak has one up for a reasonable price I'd snap that up.

26th Nov 2012 9:39am

chinnus

Member Since: 24 Aug 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 119

Is the modified VDO unit, actually modified?? Has anyone found out?

Kind regards

5th Dec 2012 4:05pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red

The output of the ECU is 5v 4 cylinder. I use a simple pull up circuit (transistor and a couple of resistors) to convert it to 12v and it will work with any electronic compatible tacho. I have seen a TD5 ECU with a 12v output BUT that had ABS connected and we never got to the bottom of why that particular vehicle was outputting 12v when all the ones I've seen since are 5V.

This is a "standard" mod when using a Compushift driven auto box with the TD5 as the Compushift needs a 12v input. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

5th Dec 2012 5:10pm

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

Dave is that just using a single transistor switch or a darlington driver?

5th Dec 2012 7:38pm

davew

Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

Just a transistor, as long as the Tacho is happy with a digital input rather than expecting a signal from the coil -ve then a transistor is fine. Most of the after market tachos these days are happy with a digital input.

I use something like this...

The 2.4K resistor can be reduced a bit if needed and can certainly be larger (up to around 10K) depending on the current requirement of the tacho. I wouldn't go smaller than 1K for either resistor, if anything go a bit bigger. This circuit inverts the signal but that doesn't really matter.

There are all sorts of variations that would work just as well, this just happens to be the one I use for both TD5 and Megasquirt tacho drivers. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/

6th Dec 2012 12:17am

me@td5.org

Member Since: 16 Jan 2011
Location: Warwick
Posts: 856

Cheers, I will experiment.

6th Dec 2012 8:28am

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