 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > New Defender not starting |
 
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9   
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Hi guys, this is my first post, so I'll try to introduce myself first.
Three months ago I purchased a gorgeous almost brand new 2008 Defender 90SE with 3.500km on the odo. After quite a few years and other cars, this is my second Land Rover; first being the 1979 Land Rover 109 Series III, which was actually my first car. 109 was in a pretty bad shape when I got it but I fixed it and we had some great times together. It was my first love and I knew the Defender was the right car for me, ever since. I was searching for the car for months, deciding between 110 and 90 models, older and newer and finally decided on the new 2008 Defender 90SE. After I got it I immediately noticed a few common problems: loud whine when stepping off the gas in higher gears, clunking noise and vibrations when slowing down/stopping, loud clutch and few other "minor" problems... These problems are being fixed as we speak, although the local authorized dealer is giving me a pretty hard time and it is taking ages. Unfortunately my Defender has one more (not-so-minor) problem which is puzzling the guys at the workshop. Occasionally it won't start; when this happens the oil pressure, engine and preheating indicators do not lit, temperature gauge shows maximum temperature and starter does not turn. OBD shows no power to ECU. The only way to restart the engine is to disconnect the battery or remove 30A Main Relay fuse. If you leave the car in this state for couple of days, it also completely drains the battery. This can happen 3 times a day or once a week. Thank you guys in advance for all your suggestions, Klemen Last edited by Vger on 17th Jun 2009 1:24am. Edited 3 times in total |
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11th Jun 2009 11:30pm |
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| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109  
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Hi Vger and welcome to the forum and regards from the other side of the world.
Some time ago I posted here a LR bulletin about a failure in the starter. please check the following link- http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic852.html I hope that can guide your dealer. Cheers Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"  Click image to enlarge |
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12th Jun 2009 1:44am |
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| sasha2001 Member Since: 02 Jan 2009 Location: New Zealand+ russia Posts: 206  
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Welcome, Upon reading your starting sypmtoms, I had a similiar thing with my td5
Turned over ok but would not start, temperature gauge had gone to red so naturally ECU would not allow start!! then would start and run rough and the oil warning light would come on and it would idle rough and then "fix" itself and then repeat this behavour Checked ECU gave a "topside switch failure" ie stuffed etc, then I read that one guy had a few td5s like this and he cleaned the earth on the ECU computer and chassis end and added another earth strap from the ECU to a different part of the body and fixed it, It fixed mine also and was going 3 months after when i changed to the Puma 110 Yet a garage would have replaced the ECU and if they used the old earth maybe there would still have been a problem, not sure if related but who knows |
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12th Jun 2009 2:08am |
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| dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 
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The problem is P110 C0602 fuse and/or the relative cables
if you read SSM37318 explain this problem. See attached files http://files.me.com/daniele.gardellin/oogje5 The SSM bulletin tell us: 1. Water temp in red indication 2. No starter 3. no ECU communications BUT IT ISN'T ECU PROBLEM!!!!! |
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12th Jun 2009 11:22am |
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9
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Thank you all for your warm welcome and your help!
I just returned from the workshop and they are diagnosing the problem again. I talked to the electritian and he just found the SSM 37318. He said the problem is similar but probably not the same, since the car starts fine when you reset the ECU. He checked the mentioned fuse and it was fine. When he pulled it he noticed the same simptoms (water temp in red zone, no starter, no ecu) - like when you pull the 30A fuse. He'll recheck all ground connections now... The funny thing is, the engine runs beautifully, it never stalls or runs rough. Then you stop, turn off the ignition and try to start it again.. nothing! Sonic3d: did the starter turn in your case? If the problem sorted by itself, it sounds more like problem with immobilizer strategy (SSM 34184). |
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12th Jun 2009 2:37pm |
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| Sonic3d Member Since: 28 Jan 2008 Location: Ross on Wye Posts: 1505  
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No the starter was completely dead |
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12th Jun 2009 7:54pm |
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9
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Hmm... I guess it's something else then, since the starter should turn when the immobilizer is active. I'm very interested what your dealer will say about it. Please keep me posted. Good luck. |
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13th Jun 2009 12:02pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266 
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Hi Vger,hope you get it sorted,what spec has an SE got we don't have that in the UK ? 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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13th Jun 2009 1:26pm |
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9
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Thank you! SE is top specs model, like XS in UK, i think. Mine is also equiped with ABS/ETC, winter package, sunroof, boost alloys, towing hook, etc. Oh, one more question guys. When I turn on signal lights, the trailer indicator blinks for a second. Is this normal? |
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13th Jun 2009 1:40pm |
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| Grockle Member Since: 24 Nov 2008 Location: Peak District National Park Posts: 2266
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Yes it's to let you know it's ok
 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up. |
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13th Jun 2009 2:08pm |
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9
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Thank you!  |
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14th Jun 2009 1:23pm |
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| AndrewS Member Since: 10 Apr 2007 Location: Hereford Posts: 3707 
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I have had an intermittent non starting problem. I presumed it was the thick earth lead from the battery to chassis. (Common fault on TD5) but that was OK. After a bit of thinking I realised that every time this happened was when the second set of keys were close to the vehicle (in passengers pocket). The fix was to get the second set of keys away from the vehicle lock, unlock and start.
This has happened on both my 110s. I must add not every time the second set of keys are close just now and again. I presume it is an alarm issue. |
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15th Jun 2009 8:00am |
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| Vger Member Since: 10 Jun 2009 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 9
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Thanks for the suggestion. I already tried taking the remote fob off to see if the problem could be caused by immobilser/alarm. Without the remote fob the starer turns and the engine starts and stalls in a few seconds... I dunno.. Did the starter turn in your case?
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16th Jun 2009 2:27am |
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| hadenough Member Since: 22 Nov 2008 Location: salisbury Posts: 11
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Sorry to say we have a 110 county and it does it all the time we have to lock and unlock with the key fob and then it usual starts .
Hope this help |
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16th Jun 2009 1:45pm |
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