 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Transit clutch and Output shaft change, couple of questions. |
 
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115  
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Hi everyone,
I have a huge backlash (probably from every part possible) and my clutch is starting to make some noise so I decided I would change clutch and outputshaft... Myself.. I am not a mecanic but I have always been servicing my cars (At least the basics) myself.. The most I've done was a timing belt change on my ex Alfa, but I feel like taking the gearbox out is on another level.. I will have a good few days (5-6) to do it so I can take my time, but I would like to know what can be expected to go wrong (Exhaust bolts to change, anything involved in taking the gear box out with the car on the ground) so that I am more or less ready. I will go with the transit 4x4 clutch, I also want to change the Spigot bearing. Because the car is new to me and I have no idea how is the alignment between the GBox and the TBox I want to avoid the One piece LOF outputshaft and go with the basic LOF one so that nothing else gets damaged in case of a real bad alignment. If this does not make sense, let me know, I can always change my mind. So, so far here is what I got in term of material needed. For the Clutch: - Clutch Sachs 3000 950 727 - Master cylinder 6284 600 602 - Central slave cylinder LPR 3279 (LR068979) *Any brands recommended?* - Clutch control valve LR068982 - Slave cylinder adapter LR068981 - Spigot bearing LR004390 - New bolts URC000030 For the Output shaft: - TDCI Output shaft MT82 (LOF) - Oil Seal LR0058800 Transfert box seal: ICV100000.G I also need a few new tools on top of the basic ones I have (feel free to add some more): -3 Legged puller, one for the Spigot (This type https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/383575022014) and one for the output shaft (Like this one: https://www.uktools.com/sp-10032000-self-g...150mm.html) -Slide hammer? (Probably no need because of the puller) -9/16in slim headed propshaft socket? I´ve seen people using 52mm socket to push the bearing in place, any other methods? I know that the Gbox and TBox assembly is really heavy, so I intend to somehow build some support with a jack or 2, happy to hear from people that done it on the ground. Also happy to hear if it really should not be done. I will update this post with the new ideas, I appreciate any help. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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13th Apr 2024 11:02am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16894  
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That method will not work with the TDCi spigot bearing due to the design of the bearing assembly, which is the reason so many folk including "professionals" end up destroying the crankshaft.
You may be able to extract it with a puller such as that in the OP's post but a purpose-made puller such as that from SP is vastly better. https://sykes-pickavant.com/products/09584...ction-info https://lofclutches.com/shop/clutches/defe...pickavant/ |
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13th Apr 2024 12:43pm |
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: aberdeenshire Posts: 510 
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Thanks Blackwolf for the clarification as said all my vehicles are TD5 or earlier.
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13th Apr 2024 12:50pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115
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I have seen that you've done the job a couple of times, did you do it on the ground? Engine crane needed? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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13th Apr 2024 1:04pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16894
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On the ground, no crane but using a transmission trolley jack.
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13th Apr 2024 4:10pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3213  
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Since you are replacing the adaptor shaft (unsure why you do not consider Ashcroft’s - no affiliation). It will be far easier to take out the transfer box first, and then the gearbox in 2 separate units.
I have removed transfer boxes without lifting a wheel off the ground. Not removed a gearbox…yet! Be aware that there are different lengths of bolts that bolt the transfer case to the adapter housing. Get the wrong one in the wrong hole, and it will jam or wreck the transfer case. On mine, I have replaced the bolts with studs, glued into the case. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Apr 2024 4:14pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115
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Thanks, that's what I was thinking to. Did you have the car on jack stands? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) Last edited by Waka56 on 13th Apr 2024 5:23pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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13th Apr 2024 5:01pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115
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Okey, I'll deffo write down what goes where and take pictures. For the adaptor shaft, I wanted to keep a weaker link and see how it goes (might also go for original). The car as 200kkm with a severe backlash, I don't know if it is original or just a pretty bad alignment.. Want to drive it myself 30-40kkm see how it goes. Edit: I see that a lot of people with shaft going bad after 25kkm swapping to the stronger version. Did new problems arised while upgrading the shaft? (In the Gbox or Tbox which would mean even costlyer problems) Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) |
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13th Apr 2024 5:06pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3213
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The Ashcroft adaptor shaft is not stronger, it just allows some oil to leak into the otherwise dry splines. The oil is then contained by a cover. Infact Ashcroft used to just modify the original shafts, and make the cover. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Apr 2024 5:53pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115
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Yup, went thru a whole thread and came to just what you say
Thanks 
The ashcroft uses the oil from the Gbox right? Does it make it fiddlier to fit/more prone to oil leaks? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD) Last edited by Waka56 on 13th Apr 2024 6:26pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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13th Apr 2024 6:07pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 798  
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Quite amazing that Land Rover managed to make the exact same mistake twice. You would think such a predictably design error would be in their gearbox design 101 |
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13th Apr 2024 6:11pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16894
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No, on its wheels, but you have to raise it to get the MT82 out from under the chassis. If you don't need the box out from underneath you don't need to raise it. I just used a high-lift under the rock slider whilst I dragged the box out. |
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13th Apr 2024 7:17pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3213
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Correct. Fiddlier to fit? No, at least not in my opinion. Actually I think its a tad easier compared to the flimsy cover and the need to put a cable tie on the original design, especially if the adapter housing is still on the gearbox. Prone to leak? Well there are 2 possible leak points. One is with double O ring on the cup, and a large x sectional o ring on the shaft. Mine has been there for almost 4 years and no sign of leakage. Main problem with O rings is when they can get into a square profile, and stop sealing. But when that happens, I guess the O ring on the transfer case intermediate shaft would have also started to weep. So anyhow, its still a TC out. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Apr 2024 8:31pm |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 115
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Anything you'd do once the transfer case is down? Mine is most likely leaking a bit. Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
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14th Apr 2024 12:04pm |
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