 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2.2 TD4 P132b General Electrical Failure |
 
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 239   
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first thing id be checking is the battery connections and main earth connections...
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24th Mar 2024 8:33pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44  
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So, Still nothing… the MAP looks good. The Connector to the L316G as part of the Turbo looks good….
Hmmmm… If i buy a new Turbo Actuator for a 2.2 TDCI is there anything i have toi look out for? B |
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25th Mar 2024 5:18pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Often these faults can be caused by something loose, check the main power harness such as starter, connections, alternator, battery posts, mega fuse security, main battery ground points.
Check the battery has good voltage at rest and when running. Some of these can cause phantom DTC’s hence intermittent faults, the intermittency caused by a loose connection causing voltage drops or poor ground continuity. You can look up the Diagnostic Trouble Codes on Generic OBD2 lists such as Ford, which isn’t going to be 100% accurate but as a guide. Due to the number of DTC’s I’d imagine a general fault o main harness, and thus Lilly a main live or ground fault that has multiple supplies. Definitely check the Alternator is producing proper voltage when running, you can do that at the battery but it should be producing at least 14.2V to 14.8v and that should be steady. Ideally you could do with watching or getting a passenger to keep an eye on that voltage whilst being driven, wihitut changes in load if should stay stable. If not, then there is a loose connection somewhere or the alternator isn’t working as it should. If it’s starting fine it’s unlikely to be the starter. If you had one fault it’s likely to be it, but a sudden list of quite a few means there is a common fault and as that’s electrical that’s something along the above. Grounds coming loose or having high resistance due to being loose are quite common on Defenders due to vibration, wet mud underneath and generally being vibrated a lot due to the nature of the machine. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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25th Mar 2024 6:44pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Super, Thanks. That is what i also thought… but since I deleted them nothing. Can drive. Will for sure check the wiring…
Only P132B remains…. And that causes the Engine to go into safe mode… so driving to my Garage is a bit of a pain (200km in limp mode….). So if I could get that one off.. (cleared and 2-3 Seconds later its is back) I’ll check the Turbo Actuator Linkage tomorrow if that solves it.. B |
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25th Mar 2024 6:53pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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Yes, I can imagine. I’ve had similar.
Just be careful not to lose the little c clip, free up the vanes manually and that should be it. I use 3 in 1 light oil on the pivots regularly, I believe LR use a kind of ceramic grease. However, it is really expansive and wouldn’t last forever, grease often hardens over time of not replaced and due to the heat there wouldn’t be surprising it gets sticky. When I had it, it was turbo actuation stuck open… If it still continues, then possibly replace the EA but only if it still happens and if the vanes feel free by manually operating the vanes. It’s the upper pivot (at the EA) that comes off, the lower one doesn’t need to. Needle nose pliers takes the little clip off easy enough. Hope that helps, and keep us posted.  Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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25th Mar 2024 7:00pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Hi, Well it ids actuall jammed to the lower position. Both clips needed to go in order to take the arme of... and it was a pain to get it on again. The movement itself is fine
So, I say that the actuator unit is dead..ish. B |
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26th Mar 2024 9:04am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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There shouldn’t be any movement on the EA side with the engine shut down, just in the vanes on the turbo side.
So I take it on the turbo side it was stuck and not free through its travel? If so then the vanes were probably stuck, if it goes back to its free travel of movement. You can try a new EA, it’s worth checking the wiring near there going into and out of the connector that there isn’t any breaks in those wires around the connector. If those still don’t work out, then a new Turbo might be needed, but, check and try everything else cheaper first. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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26th Mar 2024 7:53pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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No, turbo side was free as free can be. The arm was tight, pushing down at the max… that’s why thought maybe the actuator motor was jammed….
Now I made it. Drove the full 200km at max 60 on the German motorway. And sometimes I had the battery and ignition symbol on after a bump or so with cut but only for a brink… so I say it is still electric. Most likely I guess now it is ground somewhere….. and I’m an electric noob😭 B |
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26th Mar 2024 9:55pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19578
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That’s very very likely to be a loose live or ground for sure, possibly battery clamps are loose.
Hence the bump cussing that. You’ll find it, or get it looked at. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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26th Mar 2024 10:31pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Well, well… I‘ve checked :Battery, all 5 Grounds (Frame, transmission, Instrument, and both at the engine bay), all Fuses, Tried to follow all main Cables…. Cannot find something…
Oh and a had a new error, this time Oil Sensor no signal that would be no error 8… any idea where to look and blind spot, knowing rubbing point? P132B still is one and comes back now at 3-4 Sec in….. B |
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27th Mar 2024 2:20pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 239
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Perhaps a look at the connections to the ecu..
It still sounds like you are loosing power intermittently to the ecu and therefore sensors etc.. Ideally you would want a scope connected to the power sources... Triggered to detect a drop in voltage and waggle the various looms and connectors till you see it capturing a trace👍 |
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27th Mar 2024 4:17pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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Now, I’m trying ton understand the cables by analysing the Electrical diagrams. It seem all armed are part of the ECM Connector C0411….
If understand correctly only the ECM connector C0872 has the Grounds to Connector C0556/C0559/C1947 (to right auf the ECM) ECM gets Power via connector C3766 and Fuse F9 , all from Connector C0872 where also Ground connected to.. B |
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27th Mar 2024 5:41pm |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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I have now checked the VNT plug C2519 to C0411. All 5 cables are fine. So I say it is nothing on the main Sensor harness (C0411 plug)
It then must be on C0872… hmmm B |
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28th Mar 2024 11:03am |
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| Borbarad Member Since: 05 Aug 2020 Location: Hamburg Posts: 44
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FFS…
So, I did check the whole cabling, didn’t found a thing… Anyhow. The New Actuator did arrive and after replacing that one the error code went and the Defender did run normal again… drove nearly 500km so far… and now new issue… hand the same error codes again seems all electrical but couldn’t restart… well.. not anymore…. I can ignite and compression seems ok, but no bloody diesel… (and yes enough diesel ) MAde a new Topic… B |
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7th Apr 2024 8:36pm |
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