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Shafski



Member Since: 19 Jun 2023
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Montalcino Red
Puma on I.C.E.
There are probably a number of forum members who, well, in their “youth” dabbled a little with I.C.E. There was an era, (albeit last century), when updating, or in a lot of cases, just fitting, a stereo of some descript, was the start of the new generation. Certainly memories when some cars didn’t even have fittings for stereos, and that well known high street chain of motor factors would sell you a centre console, or under dash tray for your Din E.. or Din D, (let’s all be honest here) unit. Flush speakers, what! Where are the Sharp or Pye box speakers for the parcel shelf? A time when you relied on that infamous double beep from the Moss Security alarm, which your neighbours just loved alongside its unprecedented dawn chorus.

Evolution expanded, smaller independents opened, the US scene quickly picking up pace on our side of the pond. Pioneer, Alpine, Sony, Kenwood, Clarion, JBL, Soundstream, Rockford Fosgate, Phoenix Gold, JL, Infinity, Kicker, all protected by your Clifford, Cobra or Toad. The list goes on. The Edgeware Road was littered with unheard brands, huge Watt amps and larger than life Subs to add to your boot. The I.C.E. phenomena was game on.

I can’t be the only one still with remanence scatted around the house. If we are talking amnesty.. I have cleared out a lot, and I mean a LOT!.. but couldn’t part with my 2 Soundstream USA’s.. My Kicker tube which I imported in ’95 via a suitcase from a holiday in the “Sunshine State”; the long “negotiation” as to why my then girlfriend had to wear half her clothes home. (I mean, that’ll learn her for having the bigger case right?), plus a Sony Pre-amp Control Unit. I think that’s it. Head unit’s came and went.. faster than you could say quarter light in the majority of cases, albeit my favourite still sits with the Full Logic Sony XR7171.

As theft thrived, manufacturers built into dashboards, quality and sound of the manufacturers now standard items soared, and the after market contracted. There’s a whole generation now who just wouldn’t have a clue.

…Fast forward to 2023.. I bought a Defender!

I left the I.C.E. off the cars programme of works, thinking an updated head unit would do. And it did… until I went for an 8 hour drive to Scotland.. and then I had it.. the epiphany. With the seats, the soundproofing, etc etc. the journey as a drive was great! Better than great. In fact I’d say less taxing then an 8 hour run in the previous incumbent executive vehicle, but what she missed.. was soul.. and I don’t mean Marvin Gaye setting up in the back, I mean the rhythm and beat, the pair of under dash Pioneers just weren’t cutting it, it lacked depth, clarity, absorption. It was offering me elevator music, I wanted, no, commanded, auditorium!

Alongside my amnesty, lies a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000X5. Now this joined my armoury when I had a previous fling with a Z3, but as this was post 90’s undeclared from the core amnesty Whistle . The Z3 had the same problem as the Defender, with the added lack of roof. Hence the 1000W. That ended up in a load of bespoke work and customisation which I let go with the car, just removing the amp on sale for… well… the Defender as it turns out.

So here we go.. The Defender..

Stage 1.

Where the fun* do you put the amp.?

This particular peach does not fit “nicely” in the battery compartment. Will it go in? Yes. Can I make it work? Of course? Will I be happy.? NO.

Under the rear seat? No. I use those. Back of the rear seat?. Maybe, can be a pain with the wiring.. when folding.

Under the cubby box? See interior already done. Cubby box just perfect height now.

Limited options prevail fast… a floor build? Maybe one side of the arches? Research and researched more.. builds.. watched a load on you tube (other media channels are available), skimmed forums and pictures throughout, nothing, a real lack of inspiration..
Everyone seems to favour smaller amps under the front seats, or they have a bulkhead, or they use the cubby box.. but I’ve not found one build where anyone has utilised the sides?

Why?. So either it’s a first, or it’s just not common, or not shared, or it’s going to be a disaster for a reason I’m yet to find out. But that’s what I’ve decided.. the Amp is being side fitted, after all, it’s classed as a van, why not board it?

So.. If your interested in my Eureka moment.. and looking for some inspiration.. this is what I did; of course if you decide to copy, or take inspiration from it, and you fun* it right up, I accept no responsibility, like ever/at all, and you need to just accept what you’ve done from the get go as a new personal challenge and find a solution to making it right again 😊. If you however find success or improve, share share share. Hell – if you fun* it right up, share that too… we all need to learn.

As I was….. in order. (sorry, you’re probably 2 cups of tea in by now and wondering where this is going!).

One WHSmith flexi curve from school. Mark angle of trim.


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Cut out backing board. Whoop whoop – back to the 90’s with my 18mm MDF and jigsaw!


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Out with the pocket hole jig, (Trend PH/JIG/BK 114MM as I have one) - test fit to sides.


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**(Top Tip). Use a drill depth guide when drilling into the side support panels to ensure you don’t drill too far create small portholes! Slow and steady here wins the race.
Line up amp on board and mark placement.

Drill and set in machine threaded inserts to hold amp, and you’ll note to the right, 2 additional inserts. These cover a trim piece to hide the side mounting holes giving an overall better finish.



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**Machines inserts give much more useability going forward if you needs to take the amp off and on etc. without weakening the MDF.

A final test fit


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Board is then covered in Then covered in matching Alcantara. Amp in.


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Tea Break.

Cable routing falls next.. where and how do I get what I need from where to where.

If you’ve accepted the Double Din challenge, you’ll know that it’s a little tight behind there. Reflecting this I’d ordered the Audison BT6.2-550 phonos. 6 leads, into 1. Game on. With my smugness and excitement, the packaging became toast! The feel quality is excellent, I’ve nailed this.

But!

6 into 1 comes at a price. Quite a large moulding at each end. c. 3cm large! Drat!

Further deliberating, looking at options, routes.. testing.. it’s just too chunky for in cabin for me. I’ve seen pro builds where they’ve built tunnels/bridges down the centre inside, but that’s just not my thing Outside it is then.. Grommets ordered.. 38mm drill in hand…

Hole one.. falls under the rear seat.


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Hole 2 in the tunnel, just behind the main grommet hole from the passenger side compartment.


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All cables go into flexible conduit. Phonos and front speakers are run across the rear and then follow the same path as the 13 pin trailer wiring. Have plenty of cable ties on hand. Make it secure. There’s plenty of diagrams online to follow this route.

The power cable and under seat speaker wiring goes straight up the nearside, (separate conduit of course) tagging onto the loom already running the same way. The power cable goes direct into the passenger tub, with the speaker split into 2 under the middle access panel, then access each of the relevant seat tubs through existing grommets.

Speakers are pre-prepped before getting close to the car.


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Up front is the Defender choice of many, the Focal K2 ES1000K component set up. New 12awg wire is used throughout. All speakers are fitted with XT60 soldered connectors allowing easier swap out, replacement, or removal is required. All cabling is sleeved.

The tweeters, in the top of the dash are amended to -3Db on first crossover pass, noting their position in relation to the 4 inch. Crossovers are easily slotted and hidden behind the dash. More on this later, and the plan for frequency set up.

The existing tweeter blank is levered out, (I felt a little robbed that there was no tweeter behind mine). The new Focal took a few passes of insulation tape just to pad it out for a more snug fit into the hole, with the 4 inch fitting straight into the existing placement under dash with no issues.



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Next, it’s time for Captain Brave Pants.

I’d opted for a pair of Audison Voce AV 6.5 woofers to fit to the seat boxes. Due to the nature of location, I was not prepared to reach of the jigsaw so blew the budget on a 146mm holesaw. (to be honest I bought a 133mm first out as the internet told me it was what I needed, but it was too small for the Audisons).

Armed and ready, I reached for the box to line up grills.

Oh.

No grills.

Goodness gracious I thought.. double drat !

How the world has changed. £35, and 4 days later… the grills arrive. (AV GR 6.5)

Bish bash bosh.. 2 holes.


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**(Top Tip) Insert a piece of MDF into the seat pod pre-drilling. Should you become over enthusiastic the MDF would (hopefully) stop the follow through rather than the battery (which of course I left fully wired in situ), or the wiring/brain on the other side taking the brunt of those circulating large teeth.

With the pods then back lined with 18mm MDF, (also with the 146mm hole cut out), so reduce resonance, and tighten the sound. (In theory at least). With the rest of the Defender already silent coated and dodo Matted, this is just adds cherries and sprinkles.


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The battery side speaker backing MDF is deliberately longer to use as fitment for the amp fuse holder, without drilling any more holes through the body work giving a tidier finish inside. Presentation is key, and also makes life easier should there ever be a problem, rather than trying to address operation spaghetti.


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So that’s basically it.

Wiring in. Speakers in.

Nothing in this phase planned or considered for the rear cabin (2nd row). With 6 speakers up front and hopefully my near 30 year old Kicker tube in the boot.. who needs to give anything to 2nd row’rs? (they’ll only complain, too loud, too quiet, best just not to hear them)

All hoovered and put back together, it’s time to focus on the rear wiring to the amp.

Cutting away the unrequired conduit, all cables were dressed, then routed along the side of the tub, up and in behind the trim panel.


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Once all wired, the system was set:

Front speakers added to teh Hi Pass Crossover Setting picking up c. 90Hz and above.
The Audisons were wired into the Rear Speakers, with the crossover set to Low Pass and 80/90Hz and below.

Sub, and yes the old Kicker is in.. set to about 70Hz and below.

Input levels set at 3/5 volume, and as per the manufacturers specifcs.

50% Fosgate Punch equalizer for good measure.


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and that's it...


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I.C.E.'d Thumbs Up Shafski
_________________________________________

2015 110 Montalcino Red Utility “Harriet”
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic88791.html
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1025843.html#1025843
Post #1025843 24th Feb 2024 5:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19607

United Kingdom 
Rockford do some nice really Amps and with good SQ! Really like the attention to detail and effort put in, as you know Defenders aren’t easy to fit that’s for sure. Thumbs Up Laughing
(which adds to part of the fun and the challenge).

Only thing I’d suggest, you might like to consider? Is swapping, the AGU fuse holder over to an AFS, with ANL fuse possibly
Only they tend to be more reliable, or possibly even a breaker, but with a well wired system I don’t see the point much in breakers unless it’s a system that is regularly worked on or removed.

What I’ve always known is how shocking it is, that some people (usually those who just simply don’t realise the consequences) connect to the battery positive supply with direct live to Amp and no fuse at all.
I have known of people completely lose their vehicle and end up a complete write off, due to catastrophic fire, simply caused by for example an accidental or damage inducing dead short on an un-fused supply, direct to an Amp or other wiring, wired up in the same way.
Or there is a few that may see an Amp with a fuse in-built, and feel that it is fused because of that not realising that it needs fusing within 20” max of the battery live supply instead and without this the run between the battery live and the Amp would o be unprotected, if there was overload or damage resulting in a short it WILL catch fire in next to no time.
And the fact that the fuse is to protect the cable not the device specifically, and that the fuse rating needs to be just below the cable max current rating.

Always best to be safe than sorry, AGU fuses work and that’s the main thing anyway so that’s good.

Thumbs Up Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1025851 24th Feb 2024 6:37pm
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Shafski



Member Since: 19 Jun 2023
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Montalcino Red
Thanks custom90steve Thumbs Up

I’ll do some more research into alternative fuses, pro’s cons’s etc. I installed the Rockford Fosgate wiring kit (4AWG), which came with the AGU.. so maybe next time I pull the seat out..

Rolling with laughter

Wise advice to others about whichever instal option, always instal the fuse close by. That’s why I added the photo, it’s a key part of the instal. That along with actually setting up the amp, which not many documented instals have commented on.

Having the 6 speakers in the cabin, to me at least it makes sense to get them complimenting each other rather than running around like an U11’s football game where they are all chasing the same thing. Having them set up by frequency (albeit everyone will have their frequency range taste), gets you a so much better team/speaker/sound assurance… if you’ve gone to the effort of installing, make it sing Laughing Laughing Shafski
_________________________________________

2015 110 Montalcino Red Utility “Harriet”
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic88791.html
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1025843.html#1025843
Post #1025893 25th Feb 2024 8:42am
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3025

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Nice work mate.
Edgware Road brings back some memories. Back in the day I spent a small fortune on car stereo stuff down there. Also there was an amazing little shop in Willesden which always had the newest imported kit and some of tidiest installs in the country. The panels on my 205 1.9 GTI used to flex to the beat and I couldn’t see out of mirrors because of the vibration. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1025911 25th Feb 2024 12:17pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19607

United Kingdom 
Shafski wrote:
Thanks custom90steve Thumbs Up
1) That along with actually setting up the amp, which not many documented instals have commented on.

Having the 6 speakers in the cabin, to me at least it makes sense to get them complimenting each other rather than running around like an U11’s football game where they are all chasing the same thing. Having them set up by frequency (albeit everyone will have their frequency range taste), gets you a so much better team/speaker/sound assurance… if you’ve gone to the effort of installing, make it sing Laughing Laughing

1) Oh yes, that’s a fair bit of tweaking involved with that to get things just right and it’s pretty much set to the owners preference, I tend to like just above the low lows, and don’t like to much of a sharp high.
Some of the Tweets around now are such high frequency and powerful that they are ear piercingly loud literally and not good at all for hearing at such high level frequency, but set up just right they can hit just the right band only when wanted.
We’re lucky in a way with Defenders to have good output Alternators as standard, many other vehicles don’t and the free spooling Alternator is good too, reducing fuel use, when current load is lower.

What alternator output does the D3 have? Does anyone know? I’m guessing at least equal to pumas or better? Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1025915 25th Feb 2024 1:44pm
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Kev the Rev



Member Since: 04 Jun 2023
Location: Ripon
Posts: 16

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Keswick Green
I was having a sort out last week and chucked away some Pye shelf speakers that I've been sitting on for 50 years just in case I needed them. Hope this isn't the start of a come back.

I fitted an Alpine sub woofer to my TDCI with a Mud stuff box under the cubby which raises the cubby to the right height too
Next I need a pop out head unit as I can't even read read the buttons on my Sony
Post #1025930 25th Feb 2024 3:48pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19607

United Kingdom 
I have the Pioneer AVH7200DAB, 1DIN flip out, there are various 2DIN options from various manufacturers and the new Stinger option for considerable price.

I’m really happy with mine, the only advantages I can see that some 2DIN units have, that I don’t,
Is HDMI on some units and also factory switch clearance.
I think the Stinger option is really nice, top of the range, but the price is, very, very, expensive.
It does however, have HDMI I believe, and solves most issues such as switch clearance for 1DIN and switch relocation for 2DIN
Despite this (price),it will be popular in due course…

I believe it has options for compatibility and homogenisation with 1DIN or 2DIN pre-existing installations.

I’m very happy with what I have, so have no plans to change, works really well the Pioneer, with Car Play and I use the paid subscription TomTom Go App, which I find is the best Sat Nav system that I’ve used before.
The only update I’d like to see on the App is automatic MPG calculation upon routes selected is useful.
So giving you fuel cost use per journey info and MPG. (Garmin do this I believe, I expect some other Apps also do too).
I have emailed their tech team before regards a possible update, of which may be looked into in due course, if that’s implemented that would make it a perfect App in my opinion for my uses.
Of course there is Waze, Google maps etc and other options out there.
(We all have our different likes and dislikes. Mr. Green )
You can use Wi-Fi connection, or BT, but for good SQ and to avoid battery drain I prefer to use wired connection with high speed USB 3.0.
That way you preserve SQ to the highest bitrate, with lowest losses, admittedly Wi-Fi or BT still is very good anyway with little difference in losses. Nothing your audibly likely notice).
The DAB works very well indeed with the Naka DAB powered aerial, ensuring it’s fully Mylar shielded along the entire cable length and any DAB connection units.
And whilst at it, any other power connections ferrite clips are used is well worth doing.
I was surprised how much of an improvement there was after entirely shielding the entire DAB system, the ferrite clips also just help cut down excessive EMI to vastly lower levels which is especially useful on LED’s light bars, USB PSU’s and small electronic devices that can be known to give off EMI and EMF radiation.
The best thing to do where possible is keep clean signals, and use the HU as a signal processor rather than as the system Amp as the output is typically quite low as standard anyway and simply muddies the output.
A nice clean shielded RCA output is the way to go, it’s surprising how much better SQ difference high quality RCA signal cables induce too!
Most Defenders have good grounding as standard too, so that’s not typically too much of an issue so we’re lucky in that respect. Mr. Green Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1025946 25th Feb 2024 5:38pm
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cd110



Member Since: 21 Aug 2023
Location: Surrey
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Looks really good. As I started reading I realised your car looked a bit familiar and twigged it was you I was chatting to at the West Berkshire Cars and Coffee last month! Are you going next week? I'll be there with my landy this time as my EGR cooler was indeed the source of my coolant leak!
Post #1025996 26th Feb 2024 12:18pm
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Shafski



Member Since: 19 Jun 2023
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 73

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Montalcino Red
Good spot! That was us at the WBCC.. not sure how you picked her out from this set of photos, I’ve feeling a job for you at GCHQ could be on the cards? Laughing

I didn’t realise it was this weekend for the next one.. come round quick don’t they! Just looked at the dates, and it looks like I have clashes for months ahead now unfortunately, although on the plus it’ll hopefully be warmer next time I can attend!

Great news that it was only the EGR, and yours is back on the road Thumbs Up Shafski
_________________________________________

2015 110 Montalcino Red Utility “Harriet”
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic88791.html
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1025843.html#1025843
Post #1026005 26th Feb 2024 1:13pm
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cd110



Member Since: 21 Aug 2023
Location: Surrey
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
I recognised your seatbelts! I remember you mentioning the place you got them done.

Might see you again some point in the summer!
Post #1026030 26th Feb 2024 4:53pm
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