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Yukyuk



Member Since: 22 Oct 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 5

 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Puma 2.4L Injector Seat cleaning.
Hi,
I am about to carry out my first injector seat copper washer change.
I have all the bits but I need a heads up on the best tool to clean the injector seat in the head.
There are general purpose kits around but I don't know what the reqired diameter is yet and as I dont intend to be doing this on other vehicles is there a "good" tool that is for the Puma 2.4L.
I'd rather pay a little more for a "proper" tool instead of buying a cheap general purpose chinese tool.
If you've used a good tool could you please let me know or even better post a link.

Thanks!! Very Happy
Post #1012225 23rd Oct 2023 11:43am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16892

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If you want good tools, stick with Sykes Pickavant for this sort of thing.

https://sykes-pickavant.com/collections/injector-service

For TDCi and TD5 I use 1745000 and 1750000. Circa £200-ish for the pair.

I note that there is also now 017500v2 which seems to be a combination of the two above at about the same price as the two above together but of which I have no experience.
Post #1012234 23rd Oct 2023 12:39pm
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Yukyuk



Member Since: 22 Oct 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 5

 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks,
but I believe that I need a 15mm or 17mm diamter cleaner etc.
Post #1012476 24th Oct 2023 4:46pm
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
Literally just done this too, I used the Laser 6101 kit and it worked a treat. Running so much better. If you were nearby Stroud you could defo have borrowed my kit 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012505 24th Oct 2023 8:35pm
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
Laser 6101 Diesel Injector Seat... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0183SUEC4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This one 👍 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012506 24th Oct 2023 8:36pm
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 787

United Kingdom 
I used am ebay special for £28 and it did the job perfectly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394308345694?mk...media=COPY
Post #1012518 24th Oct 2023 10:34pm
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
Bod
That looks identical to the Laser tools one, did the job and is 1/4 price, so even better Very Happy 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012524 25th Oct 2023 7:00am
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Yukyuk



Member Since: 22 Oct 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 5

 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Thanks everyone, it's good to hear from people who've done the job. My garage quoted me £600! So I'm hoping to save some money as well as making sure the job is done properly.

Are there any useful tips on the process?

I intend to take off the rocker cover and clean that as well, as I've read that the breathers can get blocked.
Post #1012551 25th Oct 2023 10:56am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16892

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The Puma is a bit of a pain since it is all too easy for any crud that comes out of the injector recess to end up in the lubrication system.

Remember to make sure that before you start in addition to the new copper seals you have new stretch bolts for the injector clamps (and a suitable tiny torque wrench for fitting them), new rubber seals for the injector/cover seal, and new seals for the fuel spill connectors (these latter are often not included in kits). If you have the later style of plastic clips for the fuel spill connectors these sometimes break, earlier engines had metal clips which are generally preferable (I don't know when the change was made, so you may be lucky). Again these clips are not usually included in kits.

The two most important points really are to make sure that you plug the hole leading into the cylinder straight away to prevent anything falling in, and take all practicable measures not to transfer the crud from the injector recess into the oily rocker gallery. You must also on the TDCi ensure that you do both of the injectors under each clamp in a single session, don't reassemble with just one of the pair done since the other will then leak.

It is probably sensible to carry out an oil change not long after doing this job, since any crud which has got into the lubrication system will hopefully have made it to the sump and/or filter by then.
Post #1012563 25th Oct 2023 11:54am
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
I used this to help me

https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...injectors/

And exactly as Blackwolf said did an oil change not long afterwards 👍 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012568 25th Oct 2023 12:01pm
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Matt_H



Member Since: 19 Sep 2018
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 41

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
This is a job that needs doing on SWMBO's 2.4 but I must admit I'm a bit wary of it.. by the time I've assembled the tools and had a faff about I'll probably be wishing I had a garage do it. One of the bits that confuses me is this:

"make sure that you plug the hole leading into the cylinder straight away to prevent anything falling in"

How on earth do you plug that hole, but then also use a power tool to clean the seal seat, as that surely has to go across the hole too? does the plug sit lower down than the seal face?
Post #1012688 26th Oct 2023 10:17am
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
The laser kit i bought comes with plugs and a threaded pole to put them in/out. I didn't remove rocker cover, just did injectors.
I too was putting it off and dreading it, but found it surprising simple and satisfying. Only had 1 injector that was a bit hard to get out. 1 looked fab, 1 was well grubby, 2 moderately grubby. So defo needed doing, the tappety noise has gone and my provent crankcase catch can has very little coming out of it now.
Having the bonnet vertical (bungee’d to the rafters 👍) made it easier, it is a bit of work out. The LRM instructions and pics were easy to follow and adapt to cleaning not replacing. Would defo do again 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012695 26th Oct 2023 10:42am
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Minch90



Member Since: 15 Sep 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 
Yes the hole and plug are a bit lower than the seat, although if you get too enthusiastic with the brush it will pick up the plug, so be careful as you take the brush out. I used paper towel wrapped around the pole thing from the kit to clean the crud out. 2.4TDCI 90 - everyday brilliance
S3 V8 Lightweight - in the garage being ignored #newchassistime
S3 lightweight - 2nd car 24V fire risk with a full tilt and the windscreen down
S1 80" - first car fun - 75mph in neutral downhill once #wobblesallround
Post #1012696 26th Oct 2023 10:44am
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Matt_H



Member Since: 19 Sep 2018
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 41

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Thanks very much for the tips Very Happy

I think I'd have to get the rocker cover off as well and have a good clean. One of ways I thought that there was an injector seal issue is that there was a hot oil smell coming in with the heater blower when the engine was warm, and having a look about, I could see there is a slight misting of oil coming out of the rocker cover gasket on that side of the engine. A bit of duct tape around the ridiculously poor fit of the heater air intake join has solved the smell in the short term, but looking at things like this:

(skip to 4m56s )

...really confirm to me that I should get the rocker off as well.
Post #1012698 26th Oct 2023 11:23am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16892

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Matt_H wrote:
This is a job that needs doing on SWMBO's 2.4 but I must admit I'm a bit wary of it.. by the time I've assembled the tools and had a faff about I'll probably be wishing I had a garage do it. One of the bits that confuses me is this:

"make sure that you plug the hole leading into the cylinder straight away to prevent anything falling in"

How on earth do you plug that hole, but then also use a power tool to clean the seal seat, as that surely has to go across the hole too? does the plug sit lower down than the seal face?


If you look at the image below you will see six little threaded things in the lower centre of the photo. These are cylindrical with a very small flange on one end and a blind threaded hole in the flanged end (in some ways like a blind Rivnut) and yu screw one of these lossely onto the end of the threaded rod which is just above them in the photo.

You then use the rod to insert the cylindrical plug into the hole that the tip of the injector pokes through into the combustion chamber or cylinder, and unscrew the rod from the plug. The result is that the crud you are about to remove from the injector seat and the recess for the injector body cannot fall through into the cylinder. Once you have thoroughly cleaned the injector recess (with the suitable size brush from the three on the left of the photo) and the injector seat (with the suitable sized brush from the two at lower right) and then removed any loose crud (if using a vacuum or airline hold the plug in place with the threaded rod first), you can then remove the plug by screwing the threaded rod back on and extracting it.

The brushes are rotated with an electric drill using the flexible shaft (between the threaded rod and the thinnest (long) brush in the photo).

The final step if necessary is to use the very thin brush at the top of the photo to clean the hole the plug was in, and for this you apply grease to the brush to that any displaced crud sticks to the brush. It is unlikely by this stage that anything likely to damage the pistons, bores, or head will fall in during the final stage.

Hope this makes sense!



Click image to enlarge
Post #1012720 26th Oct 2023 2:35pm
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