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kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

Woe upon woe

So my clutch went on the M1 recently.

Today decided to replace the master cylinder to see if it will fix it. - Sadly it did not - pedal still goes to the floor and stays there even with new master cylinder, fresh fluid and bleeding.

Anyway in the middle of the job there was a thunderstorm. I had taken off the bonnet to make access easier and by the time I got a tarp to cover the engine bay, a huge amount of water got in.

Car wont start now - doesn't even turn over. Any ideas where to start looking?

By the way - how do most access the pedal bolts? My 2009 reg has a type of carpet but seems like would require lots of stuff coming out to properly remove it to access properly. I just removed screws near the drivers door and managed but less that ideal.

26th Aug 2023 6:49pm

GREENI

Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10363

Removing the clutch pedal assembly is quite simple. The floor covering goes up to the lower dash. Get your head under and you’ll see two wide metal ‘flaps’ that the covering tucks under, get something wide (like a scraper) and fold these down. Remove the brake switch plastic cover… give it a hefty tug, don’t be scared.. the two pedal switches are held on like a bayonet, twist 45-90 degrees and pull. You can now tug down on the floor covering. Just enough to see the bolts to the pedal assembly.

The pedal assembly is held on with 6 bolts, using a 13mm ratchet spanner ( for the lower bolts ) and a 13mm socket and medium extension on a ratchet (or easier, an impact gun) spin them all out.. the top 2 are close to the lower dash, difficult to see, easy to access.
Remove the rubber off the pedal, remove the hose and fitting from the cylinder and give the whole assembly a tug up, the brake lines would need to be unclipped from the bulkhead and clutch assembly to get the pedal out, don’t be scared…they will clip back in later.. sometimes the pedal will need pressing down to allow it to be removed out of the gap..
This is where my knowledge runs out, as I’m used to throwing the assembly in the skip and fitting a blanking plate to the bulkhead, because LS3 automatic!

28th Aug 2023 7:01am

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

Thanks Greeni, I managed to replace the master cylinder but it appears that the slave is kaput also

28th Aug 2023 10:47pm

HardCharger

Member Since: 03 Mar 2013
Location: Manila, SFO, Amsterdam
Posts: 679

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Transmission needs to come down then. Get a new secondary cylinder and the new version of the plastic fittings that go onto the secondary cylinder.

Since the transmission is down, check you clutch disc and pressure plate. Grease the output shaft generously.

Reassemble. Should be OK if you replaced all the parts that are kaputt

29th Aug 2023 2:54am

kmac

Member Since: 07 Oct 2009
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 1294

Thanks, don't want to try this myself due to weight of transmission.

Had a senior moment with regard to starting the car, for got to resynch the fob as I had disconnected the battery negative as per Haynes to swap the master cylinder.

Car starts fine, but not drivable as clutch cannot be worked. Will have to recover to a garage

29th Aug 2023 11:10am

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