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RoadForce



Member Since: 17 Jul 2014
Location: Holland
Posts: 353

Netherlands 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Coniston Green
Mid cross member replacement: slide it in with sill removed?
Hi, my 130 HCPU's mid cross member has rotted through. I am still unsure whether I can patch it up or it must be replaced. In case of the latter, I noticed that YRM do a replacement with bolt-on brackets to attach to the cabin, see https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hdg-rear-body-...double-cab

The bolt-on brackets allow to install the brackets and hence attach the cabin once the cross member has been put in place, that looks ideal.

My question is: with the old cross member and brackets removed, if I remove the sill on one side, will this new cross member slide right in, or will it foul some other part?

I know a common approach is to cut the new cross member in half, wiggle the two halves in position and then weld them back together, but I'd rather avoid that. Also, I don't want to remove the tub to gain better access since I figure that's quite an added pain compared to removing one sill and sliding the replacement home. Any thoughts? Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000
Post #1075733 19th Sep 2025 2:09pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 886

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
My experience with DCPU says the YRM crossmember will slide in no problem, removing the old for me was no trouble.... It just crumbled up by hand 😂
Post #1075777 20th Sep 2025 7:43am
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RoadForce



Member Since: 17 Jul 2014
Location: Holland
Posts: 353

Netherlands 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Coniston Green
So how did you gain access then? Remove the floor/tub, or one of the sills and slide it in sideways as I hope to do? Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000
Post #1075778 20th Sep 2025 7:56am
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1667

United Kingdom 
a few ways to do the job. normally the seat mounts are rotted out so its 2 jobs in one.

if they and the side panel steel bits are good, then pop the floor out and it makes it easier.

clean wax and paint while its out

side panels off as well and make sure you use closed head rivets to refit.

plus some sealant/ sealing foam to fill the gaps to keep water and spiders out of the lr
Post #1075810 20th Sep 2025 6:53pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 886

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
There's some good YouTube vids on the mid crossmember replacement.... My replacement "escalated" but I'm pretty sure you can do it by just removing the floor.
Good luck.... 👍🏼
Post #1075830 21st Sep 2025 7:37am
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 886

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
There's some good YouTube vids on the mid crossmember replacement.... My replacement "escalated" but I'm pretty sure you can do it by just removing the floor.
Good luck.... 👍🏼
Post #1075831 21st Sep 2025 7:37am
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RoadForce



Member Since: 17 Jul 2014
Location: Holland
Posts: 353

Netherlands 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Coniston Green
I'd rather avoid having to remove the floor and/or tub (it's a 130 HCPU) because of all the additional work, hence the original question of the viability of sliding it in with only 1 sill removed. Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000
Post #1075834 21st Sep 2025 8:12am
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 886

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Yup.... As far as I understand it should slide in with one sill removed... As long as you can get the old one out....
Post #1075836 21st Sep 2025 8:48am
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RoadForce



Member Since: 17 Jul 2014
Location: Holland
Posts: 353

Netherlands 2000 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Coniston Green
Thanks, that would be great Thumbs Up Defender 130 HCPU Td5 MY2000
Post #1075842 21st Sep 2025 10:26am
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