 | Home > Td5 > 110 td5 2002 fuel tank removal |
 
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 400   
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I did this when I replaced my rear X member. First job is to empty it...make it as light as possible, then disconnect all the accessible pipes. The 4 fuel pipes attached to the fuel pump are notoriously fragile and eye wateringly expensive so be careful when you disconnect them and colour code them with tape so you know how to refit them. So what I did was put a jack at the front with a length of timber between it and the metal cradle . Undo the front bolts and lower the jack until you can get your arm in to unclip the fuel pipes. Squeeze the clips and remove by pulling straight out, don't apply any force sideways/up down as the plastic tip will break.
The tank cradle has two studs at the rear (see pic) which will need to be undone before it can be completely dropped. Bear in mind if you grind the nuts off the studs the studs will probably also be corroded beyond use so you may have to weld on some new ones. If you're welding a cross member you can do this at the same time. When you refit you offer up the back of the cradle to the cross member, start the nuts a thread or two, man handle the tank in then raise it and secure with the front bolts. I say it like it is easy, it is not...A willing volunteer might be helpful. Be careful when putting your fuel hoses back in for the same reasons mentioned when taking them out. Might also be wise to fit a new fuel pump while the tank is out. It's a mare of a job with the tank in the truck. I have seriously considered cutting an access hole in the floor to access the top of the tank, a bit like a Disco 2 has. You can always buy an access hole cover for a boat to seal the hole afterwards, check Ebay for them.  Click image to enlarge |
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12th Sep 2025 5:03pm |
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| M.teague Member Since: 28 Aug 2025 Location: Kernow Posts: 6 
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Thank you,
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12th Sep 2025 7:51pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8408  
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Those rear nuts, if you cut them off will need new threads welding on as above. Simplist way is to put an impact gun on them and remove ornshear them off. To be fair lots of the ones I have done look terrible but have always come undone.
The fuel tank fittings are a nightmare, they don't always undo very easily and they do snap the male parts off the pump. I tend to leave the pipes connected. I do slightly different to above in that I undo the front and rear cradle bolts and pry the rear out studs out then lower the whole lot, keeping tank on cradle, front end up as pipes on it still, rear cradle drops down and access gained for xmember work. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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12th Sep 2025 9:37pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5361
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Also drain the tank too, me and my dad ended up doing this with my 90 TD5, after we did the fuel pump change, fighting a full tank is impossible. i ended replacing the tank guard too, and my dad made me up another little pipe breather. Not sure what the story is with the 110s Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back
In the words of my Good Friend, Gary Forrest 1980 -2025 " we will work something out" |
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13th Sep 2025 2:34am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8408
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It's probably worth replacing the 19mm fill breather whilst your on there, they perish for a past time. Cheers
James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Sep 2025 8:29am |
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| M.teague Member Since: 28 Aug 2025 Location: Kernow Posts: 6
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Thanks for all the replies,
Re the fuel lines, is it possible or prudent, when the tank is down onto a support to then detach the lines from the fuel filter head rather than from the tank, i have to address some corrosion behind the filter so i will be removing the assembly in due course, also i have read about depressurising the system by removing the pump relay and running the engine before removing the lines. after refitting everything will it all need bleeding and priming, this is a bit daunting for me, is it as complicated as it sounds?, |
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13th Sep 2025 10:19am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8408
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Td5 will bleed simply enough, ign on depression accelerator 10times within 10s to run purge cycle. Repeat until ypu can't hear air. It will run the pump for 90s iirc or so.
Removing at filter is usually simpler but feeding pipes back can be awkward and betting is male fittings on pipe ends are brittle anyway. I would pre empty and buy some male to barb fuel fittings somif ones breaks you have a replacement to fit. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Sep 2025 1:37pm |
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| Roukmuth Member Since: 25 Sep 2022 Location: Aurillac Posts: 4  
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Here you will find a tutorial on how to remove the fuel tank from the Defender Td5.
I hope you find it useful.  https://meca1.co.uk/dm1-bb-pomgo110td5/ |
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14th Sep 2025 8:46am |
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| M.teague Member Since: 28 Aug 2025 Location: Kernow Posts: 6
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thats a great guide,
Thanks to all that have taken the time to help and reply, i will be carefully cutting an access to the pump and associated pipes and cables and proceeding with caution, |
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14th Sep 2025 10:36am |
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| DefenderCan Member Since: 25 Nov 2023 Location: Canada Posts: 23 
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I would remove the rear floorboard in the boot/trunk of the truck.
Simple 10mm and a few rivets, however there are about 30 or so Hulk Bolts. The worst bolts known to man. Unless you have the special removal tool, you can punch a notch in the head and unscrew these bolts. Refasten with a normal hex. this will be a job and will take time, but you can also address structural concerns or apply rust corrosion spray on places you couldn't do otherwise throughout the year If you are also in the bush and your pump dies, and you have one on hand you can just pop the floorboard and there you go.... you wouldnt need to worry about the weight of the tank when refitting Hope this is a feasible alternative... |
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18th Sep 2025 10:15am |
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