 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A-Frame ball joint bolt snapped |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17821   
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Assuming you've managed to separate the ball joint taper already, I suggest removing the whole assembly from the vehicle and dealing with it on the bench. It's likely to be rust and corrosion giving you grief and you will .probably find it easier to drift out (or cut the bolts) in a vice.
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13th Jun 2025 4:59pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2267 
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That’s a real pain.
As Blackwolf has said. It’s better to take the whole assembly off and get it in a vice. If you don’t fancy that, then get the bolts/holes doused in proper penetrating oil (not WD40!) and get some heat on it. Use a punch or smaller diameter bolt to knock out the remainder of the broken bolt. I used penetrating oil (PlusGas) over the course of a few days before tackling mine and the bolts came out easily - not much help to you I know. |
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13th Jun 2025 5:11pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 103  
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Make sure as blackwolf says that the ball joint is loose, this will release some tension.
Then I would try to put a nut on the remaining part and attack it with an impact driver if you can get one there. Escalate with penetrating oil and heat. Removing the entire upper link is the final solution but can of course be problematic as well. |
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13th Jun 2025 5:32pm |
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| Mudbelly Member Since: 13 Jun 2025 Location: Ireland Posts: 2 
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Thanks folks.
The second bolt snapped also before I saw this but loosening the castellated nut first would have loosed the tension? I used a lot of heat and a DCF900 gun but the bolts snapped, I don't fancy taking the A-Frame off but is it worth trying the castellated nut next and see if things loosen up and see if I can knock out the 2 broken bolts. @Screbble the 2 nuts where the broken bolts are were no problem to loosen even without the gun. |
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13th Jun 2025 6:17pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2267
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If you can…
Try and create a ‘gap’ between the two arms and the ball joint casting and get some decent penetrating fluid in there. As you don’t have the nuts on, and only half the bolts, you should be able to hit the casting and create some movement. I am assuming you intend to replace the ball joint assembly as a whole. After all this trouble I do hope it’s a Gwyn Lewis greasable ball joint! Fingers crossed you’ll soon be sorted 👍 |
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13th Jun 2025 6:35pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 103
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Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you have done so far but if what you still have there is the bolts without their heads and you put the nuts back on and then tighten the nuts with the gun, that will either pull or rotate the bolt. With some luck it will break the bond.
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13th Jun 2025 7:58pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3572  
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In a similar situation (trailing arm to axle bolt) what worked for me is weld a bolt - head side to the bolt you want to remove, place a socket or tube or similar of correct length over the bolt, washers, and use a nut to pull the bolt out. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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13th Jun 2025 8:55pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20881
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+1 Good bit of kit.  _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___ ____\We|Will|Win/___ ____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____ _//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_ |
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13th Jun 2025 9:39pm |
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