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mifa



Member Since: 16 Dec 2022
Location: Denmark
Posts: 15

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tonga Green
Oil pickup tube surprice
Morning!

A bank holiday is usually equal to pulling out the list and working on the Defender!

It’s a 2007 pickup that used to be an Estate vehicle. It has 170 K and, according to the only owner before me, was serviced at the local indie.

Last week, I replaced the injectors and removed as much debris as possible from the head. Then, I changed the oil and filter (clean) and replaced the oil sump pan gasket, which was leaking.

The sump had tiny debris in it, as shown in the first picture (I can`t see the point in the design where it will not empty!). I found this thread

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1058908.html, and thought I better check the oil pickup tube when it was apart.


Click image to enlarge

In the following picture, I placed my flashlight at the end of the tube to see what was inside, and it was dark!. When trying to see the mesh, I learned from the thread that it should be there it was full of gunk. Big Cry


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I spent about 15 minutes trying to clean it with brake cleaner, diesel, and compressed air, which all took some effort, where the last picture is more like it should be I would assume. Last, I fitted a new o-ring and tightened it up to 10 NM as stated in the WSM. (Cleaning was not finished when the picture was taken, some of the tube stille have debries I know)


Click image to enlarge


I have not done this before and do not know if this is normal, close to disaster, or in between, but it worried me about the effort I had to put into cleaning it, considering the oil flow must have been compromised.

This is only to share an example because I was searching, and there was not a lot of information online. Pulling the oil sump pan is not normal, but keep it in mind if you are in that area anyway!

I do an oil change annually, and because it's not my daily, I only drive 7-8000 km a year, and see clean filters when changing.
Post #1065841 19th Apr 2025 11:04am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20841

United Kingdom 
This is why it pays sometimes to replace the oil pan, all be it it’s a once in a blue moon job.

A mag drain plug would help a lot, but not many people inc myself use a mag drain plug on the sump.

Is there one? What size is it and what do people use?

I think typically, most people just replace the drain plug with oil change and that’s it.
A magnetic one would be useful to collect debris for removal at each service interval.

Though the drain isn’t the lowermost point, like the diffs there is room for collection of metallic debris in the bottom which of course doesn’t just flow out.

Magnetic drain plugs do help collect that, I did consider looking for one when I last changed engine oil.
But there seemed a lot of conflicting info around so just settled for the LR part no that is the right size and fit. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #1065861 19th Apr 2025 2:07pm
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mifa



Member Since: 16 Dec 2022
Location: Denmark
Posts: 15

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tonga Green
In the process I fitted a Stahlbus drain plug to reduce the mess but changing oil and having the option to drain directly down to a waste container.
Post #1065869 19th Apr 2025 3:04pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5923

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Is that a sump thread repair to the drain hole?
Post #1065908 20th Apr 2025 7:12am
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mifa



Member Since: 16 Dec 2022
Location: Denmark
Posts: 15

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tonga Green
No, its the drainplug fitted again. I bought a new oil pan because I read they would bend.

But I only had to give et a slight push with a screwdriver and it let go, therefore I don`t really think its bend and will keep i as a spare with the plug as well.
Post #1065920 20th Apr 2025 10:38am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1263

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
So like many cars no regular oil change. I dare say Defenders are more at risk because: they are work vehicles and spending money is something business don't like to do. They were cheap cars when new, and not exactly cherished at the time. They are tough so they don't need an oil change right?

Most engines run for many miles even neglected. It is what it is, if it runs good don't worry about it. Just clean up and keep it looked after under your ownership
Post #1065929 20th Apr 2025 3:23pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20841

United Kingdom 
The oil pan design was also updated too, and they are thin and tin worm can get in as mentioned which is a concern.

I use a thin film of black Dinitrol wax over it, never had a problem.
Yes, it gets hot, it’s important to leave it to gas off for at least a day before heating it up a lot.
But long term, that keeps it nicely protected, and keeps water off a lot more.

I replaced mine, because the seal started leaking, but in that process it was worth updating due to age and to the new type sump pan anyway. The pan itself wasn’t too bad, but as the seal was leaking it’s best practice to fit a new sump pan anyway. _\Hennessey|Venom| F5/___
___\⭐️Lone|Star|State/___
____\We|Will|Win/___

____/🇬🇧🇺🇸\____
_//*⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰*\\_
Post #1065930 20th Apr 2025 4:54pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 231

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Oh dear, yet another thing I should check on mine as pretty much everything else had been ignored or abused.

Deposits in an oil pan are not an issue. They are stable and not going anywhere.
Post #1065962 21st Apr 2025 3:53am
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