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foremanyvr



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 16

Canada 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Coniston Green
Gap filler
Hi,

I'm updating interior carpet with Exmoor kit and found these issues when taking out the original.

This gap had some sort original fill that has cracked and dried over time and also some rust forming.

Any tips on how I can fill this gap and stop any future rust from forming here?

Thanks!



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Post #1064324 31st Mar 2025 5:55pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1854

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Probably used dumdum or similar originally, I'd use a sikaflex / tiger seal polyurethane to seal it up now.

You can carefully drill out the unpainted pop rivets on the outside, slide the wheel arch panel out and then do a proper rust kill and treat that area from both sides.

hth Keith
Post #1064333 31st Mar 2025 7:23pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Malton
Posts: 592

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
Try this stuff, it's similar to the original.

https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1979-body-caulking-10-strips
Post #1064409 1st Apr 2025 12:34pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1886

 
ickle wrote:

You can carefully drill out the unpainted pop rivets on the outside, slide the wheel arch panel out and then do a proper rust kill and treat that area from both sides.


I'd absolutely support this. The bottom of that C pillar can be a rusty place. If you look up from underneath, where it joins the sill, there will be a drain hole. There might even be a rubber bung in there. You can get access (for 'rustkiller' or similar) down into this pillar on the other side of the door catch.

Actually your car isn't looking too bad here overall. Maybe there's less salt on your roads in winter? Mine was a goo-ey crusty mess before I tackled it (some pics in my 'tinkering' thread if you can be bothered). Yours looks almost new by comparison. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #1064417 1st Apr 2025 1:38pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1247

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Conscious you are based in Canada, but if you are going through this effort to get your Defender in good condition you might want to consider additional protection to what is a bit of a weak point in the Defender design

https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/land-ro...ld-gl1017/

Actually if you decide to go down that route have a look at the rear cross member protection and my personal favourite the front protection and mudflaps relocation outboard which stops mud from soiling your doors.
Post #1064418 1st Apr 2025 1:49pm
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foremanyvr



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 16

Canada 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Coniston Green
This is a good idea. I think I’ll do this while I’m in there. Thanks for the tip.
Post #1064435 1st Apr 2025 3:35pm
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foremanyvr



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 16

Canada 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Coniston Green
Quote:
Actually your car isn't looking too bad here overall. Maybe there's less salt on your roads in winter? Mine was a goo-ey crusty mess before I tackled it (some pics in my 'tinkering' thread if you can be bothered). Yours looks almost new by comparison.


Just had it imported from Italy so it hasn’t seen a winter in Canada yet. We don’t have a ton of salting in the west compared to east.
Post #1064437 1st Apr 2025 3:45pm
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the gamekeeper



Member Since: 01 Jan 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 97

England 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Tonga Green
leave the gap as a drain hole
Post #1064454 1st Apr 2025 6:07pm
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