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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2090   
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Use your angle grinder to cut the head off and knock it through ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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9th May 2024 12:34pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19677
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You could get a grinder in there carefully, just ensure not to cut anything but the bolt.
(The wheel might be in the way which is a pain…)… Then you can remove the mud flap bracket and then drill out the remains on the bolt and knock out the remains of the rivnut in a more controlled way which is safer and less likely to damage the surrounding steel. Cobalt HSS dill bits are good, they can be a bit brittle but are easier in hard steels and materials. It’s a harder more time consuming way of doing but it’s safer, and more reliable. If it still tries to spin drilling, stick a chisel into the side of it to keep it still, so long as PPE is used and keeps fingers away you’ll be okay. At least you can do it whenever you want at convenience and still drive it. 
Rivnuts are just little so and so’s for spinning, I think they are best avoided as much as practically possible. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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9th May 2024 12:45pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 678  
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Looks like an angle grinder job to me
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9th May 2024 12:49pm |
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| Cragster69 Member Since: 15 Jun 2021 Location: Scotland Posts: 174  
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I did mine with a pair of molegrips to hold the spinning rivnut, via the opening in the underside of the outrigger.
It's a bit more of a faff but I didn't have an angle grinder Craig. “Don't believe everything you read on the internet.” ― Abraham Lincoln www.scotgrc.co.uk |
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9th May 2024 1:59pm |
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| Lunar Landy Member Since: 02 Jun 2023 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 31 
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Hi All,
Thanks for the valuable advice, I did use an angle grinder, unfortunately I caught a bit of the surrounding chassis, just a bit scuffed but not much damage. What surprised me was they were bolts and not rivnuts, so the mudflap was easy to remove. It could have been problematic as the bolts protruded at about 8 mm from the nuts. I used shorter stainless steel bolts, it was a right faff in holding the nuts on the inside 
But being a skinny short runt the operation was successful with no need of the sear box! I looked at the rear mudflaps luckily there are in good condition, but the bracket bolts into the chassis must screw into rivnuts as I can’t see any openings for access?? Thanks |
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11th May 2024 12:39pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16947 
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Yes, the rears use threaded inserts but if I recall correctly they are hex-bodied ones, less prone to spinning. Instead the machine screw shears off leaving the end in the insert!
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11th May 2024 5:50pm |
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| Lunar Landy Member Since: 02 Jun 2023 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 31
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Thanks for your response, at least you have half a chance.
, I recently purchased a rear step and it was supplied with hexagonal rivnuts , smaller than the hexagonal openinings in the crossmember, being far to loose. So I drilled two more holes to accommodate the smaller one’s supplied, I had to file the edges of the the rivnuts to have a close fit in the holes. I’m about to use the diy tool to insert them.🙏 |
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12th May 2024 1:52pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2090
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My step has recently pulled the inserts out of the cross member after 12 years.
At least I dont have to get them out 😃 I think I'll replace with boss plates fed in on a filler rod and then welded through. Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. |
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12th May 2024 4:57pm |
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