Getting the old cross member out was a faff as the thing is a bit rusty and the floor panel was fixed with sicaflex
Finally removed the floor panel and and just attacked it with a grinder to take it out in sections. The bolts were done from the top making it even more of a challenge so had to grind them out.
The old cross member was fed out through the side after removing the side panels. All in all a bit more challenging than expected.
The fuel lines also make this quite interesting but doable with a bit of swearing.
End result is a big hole. Yey.
Now onto installing the sides that have a recess to allow the new wider seats to fit.
Has anyone done this?
If so any pointers as it looks like there’s a bit missing. Or do you just chop the existing metal to fit.
It’s an easy job if doing a chassis change but NOT a couple of hour job on a car in situ. Let’s just say that…
Spoke to the lovely helpful guys at YRM and they sent a template.
It would have been handy to have this in advance or on their website but have it now.
For future reference here it is:
Grinder time again.
You cut the original body to make the shiny stainless bits fit.
End result is below:
And with the new bits installed on the kit and riveted it looks a bit like the below:
I know… what could possibly go wrong…
It’s only metal. However was really down on Saturday but now can see the end is in sight I’m a little bit less stressed.
Wanted the comfort and safety of the puma seats.
However In hindsight i wish I hadn’t bothered.
Congratulations on your work! Years ago when the 1992 200 tdi 110 was our main car, I took out the middle row Land Rover seats and installed Exmoor Trim hi back seats instead. It was a straight forward swap but they do not make them any more.
Today was a bit of a lightbulb moment. If the old cross member needed to be cut into 3 parts then how do you get the new one in as a solid section.
The answer is with great difficulty. Unless… you remove yet another bit of the car.
So after again speaking to Yrm. The upstand was drilled and removed and the new section is finally in. it’d be great if the New Cross member raised sections were boltable. So you didn’t have to remove yet more car…
Next step is installing the support brackets for the puma seat latch. God knows what issues that’ll bring but will solve them one by one.
Using this time to buy a new upstand. When that arrives then will just carry on. A bit of Dinitrol required while the floor panel is open.
Excellent effort there Whilst it is all open it might be worth slathering the top rails and brackets with something like Lanoguard or waxoyl. Since it is all nicely exposed.
I have the standard TD5 cross member to replace this year, which is much easier, except for the internal roll cage that needs removing before anything can start