DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Defender 90 puma low milage but was used on a farm.

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > My Defender > Defender 90 puma low milage but was used on a farm.

Page 3 of 4

Print this entire topic ·

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

Thanks for the complement NickMc if we lived closer together I would have no problem helping with a project but I'm sure anyone could do it if they had the tools. I am lucky I have been building up a tool collection for many years.

2nd Sep 2023 8:08am

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

Thought it was time for an update not had as much chance to work on it as I would like as been working away most the time this year.

Some new parts 2x swivel ball kits & brake callipers to allow vented disks.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

made a start on painting some parts

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

made a start on the axles

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Aframe

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

rear axle on & brake lines made up

Click image to enlarge

31st Dec 2023 11:38am

Screbble

Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2056

2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver

Looks marvellous- better than new 👍

31st Dec 2023 1:29pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3618

Great work

31st Dec 2023 2:18pm

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

split the engine & gearbox to check the clutch glad I did as one of the springs had fallen out.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

new Clutch kit from LOF

Click image to enlarge

engine & box in

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

front & rear anti rollbar

Click image to enlarge

1st Jan 2024 10:55am

LJMARSDEN

Member Since: 08 Jun 2021
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 285

wicked stuff

I have alives comfort springs but with fox shocks, theyre lovely. Luke Marsden

06 V8 1UZFE Defender 90

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/defender__v8/

1st Jan 2024 5:18pm

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6038

Great work, lovely workshop!

1st Jan 2024 6:39pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19608

Re: Defender 90 puma low milage but was used on a farm.

I’ve just caught up with this thread, very nice build and I love the attention to detail.
It’s great to know almost every nut and bolt as you go through each section with an eye for detail.

Landy addict wrote:

Click image to enlarge

I cannot understand why LR dual skinned this area, when I was looking at mine a couple of years ago I noticed it, I would have thought it would have made sense to either use thicker plate, or box section with drainage if for captive wiring but a semi sealed dual skinned set up seems just like a corrosion trap for little reason to me.

Landy addict wrote:

Then 2x coats epoxy chassis black

Click image to enlarge

Looks excellent.

Landy addict wrote:
Finished bulkhead.

Click image to enlarge

Excellent again, surprised the corrosion was so bad in very specific places on it looking at it, but, very good in others. Evidently rust trap areas, probably best all of us keep an eye on.

Landy addict wrote:
Aframe

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Really nice, I have the same on mine, something else to stick a grease gun on is always useful.

Landy addict wrote:
split the engine & gearbox to check the clutch glad I did as one of the springs had fallen out.

Click image to enlarge

Oh yes, been there done that before. Just out of interest was it a LR Gen clutch or perhaps you aren’t sure? Mine was just the same last year and it was a LR offering…
My 90 has the Sachs Transit 4x4 clutch in now, I’ve very happy with it. This one I have and the LOF offering seems two leading offerings. LR’s offering I have my doubts about, so much so I didn’t
feel like having another put in.

Landy addict wrote:

Click image to enlarge

I think that the ARB lower link to ARB Stabiliser bar bolt is in the wrong way around, it looks a little on a skew, I could be wrong but I think the bolt goes through the ARB eye and the nut is on the link side.
As I said I could be wrong but the WSM probably shows the orientation, if I’m wrong, I may well be but the bolt being placed through the ARB, and the nut on the link side I think means it sits a bit better I think. Happy to be corrected though if I am wrong.

Plus the ARB eye tends to move / pivot more than the link. Nuts towards the centre of the axle, then the ARB eye pivots just behind the washer and neck of the bolt head just beyond the washer, on the shank of the unthreaded part of the bolt.

Keep us posted on your build if you can, coming on really nicely so far, keep up the good work.

It must be so nice to have the workshop in peace and quiet too, without interference from others I.e. neighbours or limited room etc too.

Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧

1st Jan 2024 8:05pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Great work. Great progress too.

Click image to enlarge

I do not think that area is double skinned. However the aluminum is sandwiched between the seat belt anchor going to the chassis outrigger and the seat belt reel bracket. I had ordered a new pair of genuine brackets that go between the tub and the chassis outrigger, and surprise surprise, they were just bare steel, no coating whatsoever. No wonder they rust and cause the galvanic corrosion as seen here. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

1st Jan 2024 9:51pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1571

diesel_jim wrote:
Great work, lovely workshop!

The other vehicles in it aren’t bad either

1st Jan 2024 10:01pm

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

Re: Defender 90 puma low milage but was used on a farm.

custom90steve wrote:
I’ve just caught up with this thread, very nice build and I love the attention to detail.
It’s great to know almost every nut and bolt as you go through each section with an eye for detail.

Landy addict wrote:

Click image to enlarge

I cannot understand why LR dual skinned this area, when I was looking at mine a couple of years ago I noticed it, I would have thought it would have made sense to either use thicker plate, or box section with drainage if for captive wiring but a semi sealed dual skinned set up seems just like a corrosion trap for little reason to me.

Landy addict wrote:

Then 2x coats epoxy chassis black

Click image to enlarge

Looks excellent.

Landy addict wrote:
Finished bulkhead.

Click image to enlarge

Excellent again, surprised the corrosion was so bad in very specific places on it looking at it, but, very good in others. Evidently rust trap areas, probably best all of us keep an eye on.

Landy addict wrote:
Aframe

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Really nice, I have the same on mine, something else to stick a grease gun on is always useful.

Landy addict wrote:
split the engine & gearbox to check the clutch glad I did as one of the springs had fallen out.

Click image to enlarge

Oh yes, been there done that before. Just out of interest was it a LR Gen clutch or perhaps you aren’t sure? Mine was just the same last year and it was a LR offering…
My 90 has the Sachs Transit 4x4 clutch in now, I’ve very happy with it. This one I have and the LOF offering seems two leading offerings. LR’s offering I have my doubts about, so much so I didn’t
feel like having another put in.

Landy addict wrote:

Click image to enlarge

I think that the ARB lower link to ARB Stabiliser bar bolt is in the wrong way around, it looks a little on a skew, I could be wrong but I think the bolt goes through the ARB eye and the nut is on the link side.
As I said I could be wrong but the WSM probably shows the orientation, if I’m wrong, I may well be but the bolt being placed through the ARB, and the nut on the link side I think means it sits a bit better I think. Happy to be corrected though if I am wrong.
Plus the ARB eye tends to move / pivot more than the link. Nuts towards the centre of the axle, then the ARB eye pivots just behind the washer and neck of the bolt head just beyond the washer, on the shank of the unthreaded part of the bolt.

Keep us posted on your build if you can, coming on really nicely so far, keep up the good work.
It must be so nice to have the workshop in peace and quiet too, without interference from others I.e. neighbours or limited room etc too.

Thanks for the comments Steve as for the ARB I think it is the right way round going by the diagram below the bolt might be skew as it isn’t tight, I left them all slack just in case I needed to remove it.
If anyone ells is reading this that knows the correct way can you please comment.

Click image to enlarge

It was original LR clutch

Double skin on the bulkhead footwell I was thinking of drilling a small hole into the cavity & spray some Lanogaurd then put in some grommets to seal it off again.

1st Jan 2024 11:00pm

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

Dinnu wrote:
Great work. Great progress too.

Click image to enlarge

I do not think that area is double skinned. However the aluminum is sandwiched between the seat belt anchor going to the chassis outrigger and the seat belt reel bracket. I had ordered a new pair of genuine brackets that go between the tub and the chassis outrigger, and surprise surprise, they were just bare steel, no coating whatsoever. No wonder they rust and cause the galvanic corrosion as seen here.

Thanks for the comments Dinnu, you are correct this is not a double skin area I think the reference was to the bulkhead footwell. I have ordered some replacement anchor points that are galvanised I will coat them with several coats of epoxy just to be safe.

1st Jan 2024 11:13pm

Landy addict

Member Since: 03 Dec 2022
Location: Argyll
Posts: 44

LJMARSDEN wrote:
wicked stuff

I have alives comfort springs but with fox shocks, theyre lovely.

I was going to go for the Fox shocks but thought they might be too soft for me I was told these new Alive shocks developed with Bilstien to give an in-between hardness so thought I would give them a chance.

1st Jan 2024 11:17pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 19608

Landy Addict - Ah that explains it, I’ll have a look at mine tomorrow. I know they do sit skew wiff when not tightened up when I’ve had mine off before.
I know mine were bolted on the same way they were from the factory and I mirrored that when I have had to take them on and off.
I might just be thinking it, the WSM is usually right, only it has been known that the WSM can have anomaly’s in it and some errors though rare there is the odd spec in it that has been found to be incorrect.
I would lean to believe the WSM is correct now, seeing as you mentioned they weren’t tightened up and probably mine are the same way as yours are fitted and the WSM.
It’s been known for the links to be accidentally fitted upwards too, easily done for sure.
In some cases, it’s the poor diagram sketches or descriptions, there is a few mis matched torque settings too in there I believe.
Damper washer orientation can be a troublesome one as well.

With the double skin bulkhead parts, I thought about spraying rust proofing in there too but when I had it and the application straw I seem to remember it was difficult to get in there as the gap between the two was so small and obstructed in many places.
I think there was small rubber bungs in places, similar to wiring blank grommets that are painted over.
Which gives a bit of access, but, it’s very difficult to do a good job of rust proofing in there.
Could it not be filled with a liquid rustproofing solution rather than aerosol spray?
Not so good regards leakage down onto the floor though if it did.

Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧

1st Jan 2024 11:58pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1571

3M do a good Creeping cavity wax if you want to try something between the panels.

2nd Jan 2024 2:40am

Page 3 of 4

All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum