 | Home > Technical > Transfer Box front flange oil |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3214   
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I believe that later transfer boxes had the output flanges glued to the output shafts, and the glue prevents the oil to migrate along the splines. I used Loctite 648 when I removed my output flange - after cleaning residues of the old glue of course. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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23rd Aug 2023 7:38pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2266  
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Not sure how common but definitely you need to drain the oil. You will need that felt washer, a seal and a new nut. Before ordering parts I would check the condition of the flange where the seal seats. If just replacing the felt washer, then you could probably get away with the oil inside the box, unless you want to put some sealant. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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23rd Aug 2023 7:38pm |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349 
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There is a felt washer/seal behind the nut and steel washer.
Oil seeps through. Best (read cheap fix) I can suggest is remove said felt washer, wash in something that will get rid of the oil, let it dry and "pack" the washer with sealant. Then put it back. |
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23rd Aug 2023 7:45pm |
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| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 275  
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Thanks for all the replies. Will be spending this weekend removing the transfer case to replace the output shaft seals, and will replace the washer.
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25th Aug 2023 9:31am |
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| jfh Member Since: 08 Jan 2014 Location: West Coast Posts: 349
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You can do it on the vehicle.
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25th Aug 2023 9:48am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16909 
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Unless you need to do significant further work (such as replacing the bearings) it is a waste of time removing the transfer box from the vehicle, you're creating a huge amount of extra work. Replacing the front flange, oil seal, etc., on the vehicle is a one-hour job. Removing and refitting the transfer box is a full day's work (possibly two if you haven't done it before) and is quite involved, plus there is also the risk of dropping the transfer box on a squashy part of your anatomy. On the plus side, if you do take the transfer box out you can inspect and grease the output adaptor shaft coupling, and it is not much extra work to remove the gearbox and put a new clutch in while you're at it! |
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25th Aug 2023 10:19am |
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| John P Member Since: 26 Dec 2013 Location: West Sussex Posts: 275
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Sorry my answer wasn't that clear. I'm replacing a leaking seal on the output shaft on the gearbox, and will replace the seal on the transfer box side as well. Also inspect the output shaft at the same time. So the transfer box has to come out to do this.
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25th Aug 2023 10:43am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16909
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That makes sense! You have no choice but to do the bigger job then.
Beware that removing and refitting the female part of the output adaptor shaft from the back of the gearbox is not particularly easy - the bolt can be hard to remove and the part may need a decent puller to remove it. Also be very careful when refitting not to use the bolt to pull the splined cup back on, it is not unknown for the head to come off the bolt. |
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25th Aug 2023 12:05pm |
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