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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 278

Scotland 
Wastegate lever 'play'
I am trying to get to the bottom of the severe lack of power in my 200tdi 90.

Really struggles to go above 50mph and dies on the slightest of hills.

I am working my way through all of the advice from other web searches - collapsing hoses etc

Based on an issue I had with a mis-fire on my TD5 Disco, which turned out to be a seized wastegate lever, I decided to check the wastegate on the 200tdi. The actual actuator seems to be doing what it should - stiff but can be moved with pliers/grips. However, the wastegate lever on the turbo just seems to be flapping about, it is very loose. Is this normal? Should there be any resistance or return spring on the lever?

Any help appreciated.

The 90 is mechanically 'standard' other than a recently replaced fuel injection pump (from 'Diesel Bob'), running 265/75/16 MTs. I have owned it for 20+ years, although it was off the road for the last 6 or 7 years waiting for the recent rebuild. I know I may have gone 'soft' driving relatively higher power euroboxes over the last few years, but I do not remember it being this slow, and I was always able to keep up with motorway/dual carriageway traffic - now I am def in the slow lane!
Post #998683 5th Jul 2023 9:43am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4406

United Kingdom 
Hi Mean Green. I love the 200tdi superb engine. Sounds like you are venting boost.

Ok, wastegate levers. If the actuator connector rod is still connected to the waste gate lever arm then with a pair of mole grips clamped over the connecting rod you should be able to move the mechanism towards the waste gate lever, but there will be a lot of resistance from the spring in the actuator bulb. Proper strong spring.

If the actuator connecting rod is disconnected from the waste gate lever then the lever should flap around easily, it should not be at all stiff.

If in the first case it is easy to move the connecting rod then the actuator is broken and needs replacing.

If in the second case the waste gate arm is super stiff without the connecting rod being attached then this needs to be freed up using a light oil and lots of working back and forth to get the full range of movement.

Other things to check. The waste gate actuator pipe from the turbo is prone to perishing, going hard and not sealing and venting boost.

The pipe that enters the back of the injection pump (banjo bolt on top cap) can chafe and prevent the injection advance diaphragm from working properly.

The injection advance diaphragm under the top cap can perish and split, although it is rare.

Hope that helps in the first instance. Thumbs Up
Post #998690 5th Jul 2023 10:36am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3210

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Does it emit black smoke when you try to push it hard?
If yes, then it is a problem with the air induction, either split turbo hose, clogged intercooler, or leaking intercooler or even a failed turbo.
If no, then not enough fuel, and first thing to check is the hose from the turbo compressor to the fuel injection pump. If all is good, then something could be amiss with the injection pump. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #998711 5th Jul 2023 1:24pm
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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 278

Scotland 
Thanks Geo & Dinnu

I am not aware of any significant black smoke - just completely gutless and makes a lot of noise for no progress.

I will have a good look at all the hoses, then turn attention to the pump. I am sure some googling will answer this - but how do you check it the injector pump is working properly (or at optimum) ??
Post #998928 6th Jul 2023 5:06pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4406

United Kingdom 
It would be worth plumbing in a boost gauge to see what the turbo is doing, even if only to check.

Have a check of the intake hoses for splits (you would hear a whistle if this was the case) or internal de-lamination which would restrict air flow with increasing boost.

When was the fuel filter last changed?

Could be the lift pump has failed.

As for the injector pump, it should be able to pull enough fuel in spite of a bad lift pump, but if the internal fuelling pin is sticky or seized then the engine will not get enough fuel at boost. It has been known for the pin to get sticky and for the boost/fuel control rod (the large one attached to the diaphragm) to have a groove worn in to it. To check these you will have to remove the top cap and lift the diaphragm out.
Post #998930 6th Jul 2023 5:23pm
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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 278

Scotland 
An update - I had the 90 intercooler and pipework pressure and smoke tested - no leaks.

I have also plumbed in a boost gauge - turbo is boosting to around 0.8Bar, so that would appear to be ok.

Does that point to a fueling issue? or is there something else to check?
Post #1000453 16th Jul 2023 10:12pm
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