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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
Adjusting bulkhead
I’m in the process of a full restoration of my 2002 Defender TD5, including a new chassis installed. I’m about 95% complete and put on the doors today and… suprise suprise, they don’t align. I’ve read a ton on forums and watched many YouTube videos and I’m stumped.

My rear doors (it’s a 110) for the most part line up. The front doors are way off, maybe a good 1.5 inch on top and looking at it… it’s clear the bulkhead needs to be tipped on top towards the front of the car. So all bolts for the top, sides, etc. are loosened as are the bolts for the bracket that attaches the footwell to the chassis. Also the side large bolts that attach the bulkhead to the outrigger is loosened.

Now for the life of me I can’t get the bulkhead to budge. At all. So what have people used and note the car is newly painted so I need a solution that won’t destroy the paint. Thoughts?


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Post #998648 4th Jul 2023 9:48pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1571

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
What distance in cm have you got between the bulkhead edge and B pillar?

What brand chassis and bulkhead?

Is the screen bolted to the roof?
Post #998651 4th Jul 2023 10:10pm
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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
On both sides I have 88.1mm (should be 88.265) on the bottom and 87.7mm on the upper on both sides. Windscreen is not tightened, just loose bolts. Chassis is a Maer which I’ve been really impressed with as almost everything lined up exactly.
Post #998666 5th Jul 2023 7:02am
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Jimb1978



Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 804

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black
What about the bolts that hold the wing in place either side of the radiator. I seem to remember them being a slotted hole in the chassis. This might give you the movement you are looking for? 2002 110 td5
Post #998791 5th Jul 2023 9:52pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3213

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Also ensure that the bonnet slam panel and its braces to the chassis are loose when adjusting the bulkhead.
Wonder if you could jack up under the doors themselves, and let the doors push the bulkhead forward. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #998816 6th Jul 2023 5:53am
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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
The only bolts that tie the bulkhead to the chassis would be the brackets at the footwell and as you say, the slam panel braces. I’m wondering about the steering column however, does anyone know if this needs to be loosened (which would be an absolute nightmare to do at this point).
Post #998994 7th Jul 2023 6:34am
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6038

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
There should be enough movement in the splines on the steering shaft.... undo the pinch bolts so the UJ's can slide on the shaft.

Dont forget to tighten them afterwards though! Shocked
Post #998996 7th Jul 2023 6:57am
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1534

United Kingdom 
is it the original bulkhead or an aftermarket one as it looks like a puma dash but you say its a td5?
Post #999005 7th Jul 2023 8:08am
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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
It's the original bulkhead. I have put in an aftermarket "ministry of defender" Puma dash (not for the faint of heart I have to say).
Post #999008 7th Jul 2023 8:14am
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1571

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
Are they new or original doors?


Some of the aftermarket stuff is absolute rubbish and not fit for purpose I’ve had some total nightmares trying to get them to line up. Some I’ve had to take extreme measures with a portapack hydraulic ram Whistle

The top slanted portion of the bulkhead needs to come forward it appears from the images and the measurements.
Post #999057 7th Jul 2023 1:20pm
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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
Doors are original. Funny you mentioned a porta power as that’s what I’ve come to the conclusion on is I’ll need to use mine to push the top of the bulkhead forward a bit. For those that have done this before, do you anchor off the B-pillar (for the porta power?)
Post #999062 7th Jul 2023 1:33pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1571

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
We can’t talk about such things in public Laughing Whistle

Someone could possibly attach a soft long ratchet strap and some padding around the whole thing so as not to damage any paint and something solid and pull it forward, but you have the dash fitted as well.

You should have adjustment in the bulkhead footwell to chassis brackets.


If you are going to go to such measures I’d go off something solid like a chassis member, just place something like a big solid wooden block to spread the load.

It doesn’t take much sometimes, the only other way is a few hefty folk to pull while you tighten the bolts.

I normally fit it all together in a certain order, but have had to resort to a few more persuasive methods with aftermarket stuff and other folks work unfortunately instead of stripping the whole thing apart again.
Post #999071 7th Jul 2023 2:38pm
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mrodey



Member Since: 18 May 2023
Location: Svedala
Posts: 14

Sweden 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Scotia Grey
Thanks for the input. Dash is coming off for sure. I’ll try to rig a way to push the bulkhead forward bracing off the seat box since it is firmly bolted to the chassis. It’s my own fault for not setting the distance correctly when I first fitted the bulkhead back on. I just forgot with everything that had to be done.
Post #999092 7th Jul 2023 5:22pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2555

Scotland 
Yep. You’ve got to get brutal with it. I used a ratchet strap down to the front of the chassis.


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Post #999152 8th Jul 2023 7:29am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 443

United Kingdom 
You can pass a thin strap through behind both screen blocks and then run forward to something solid like another vehicle etc , just ratchet strap the bulkhead forward now. The wing's should be fitted once the doors are aligned properly.
Post #999438 10th Jul 2023 10:58am
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