 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replace "Safari Brackets" without taking off roof |
 
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230  
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Potentially you could do it, as looking at the aftermarket replacements from YRM these do not hook over the tub like the side cappings. If this is the case, then your biggest difficulty would be keeping the seal between the sides and the tub lifted whilst you slotted the new corner bracket into place.
YRM Brackets, for reference pics: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-gal...er-series/ Though these are series, so could have changed between series and Defender. |
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7th Jul 2023 9:25am |
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| nwicki Member Since: 27 Dec 2021 Location: Stuttgart Posts: 11  
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Thanks for the quick reply.
Jup I saw these replacement brackets, hence the thought of just pulling them down and slotting them back in again. There's a different bracket which is most likely the right one: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hot-dipped-gal...er-series/ But what seal are you referring to? |
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7th Jul 2023 9:33am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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There is a foam (I think) seal between the tub cappings, and the side panels. I will try and post a picture shortly.
Edit:- On second thoughts it wont be that easy. The side cappings go over the top of the safari bracket, then the foam sits between the side cappings and the side panels. Black line represents roughly where the safari corner bracket will sit, orange it the foam seal I refer to. 
To get the Safari bracket off you'd need the roof off, then the sides (though there is a fiddly way to remove sides without removing roof), and then remove the side cappings before you could then remove and replace the safari brackets! |
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7th Jul 2023 9:41am |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 635 
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I disagree about removing the roof.
As OP says you can remove the bracket by drilling the rivets and pulling it down - at the risk of scratching the paint - so I'd mask the area off. The OE triangle/corner bracket has a lip at side by the door seal, not the top so can be pulled out. The YRM design is no different to OE (ASR2450 & ASR2451). The seal mentioned is between the top of the capping and the roof section, not between the capping and tub - so is irrelevant. I'd use OE spec, galv adds a thickness that can only hinder fitting the new bracket. They're only a £2 each aftermarket. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge link to original LRM article here for more pictures https://www.landrovermonthly.co.uk/article...-cappings/ JB @Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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7th Jul 2023 10:04am |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 635
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Good luck with that, you will drive yourself crazy and make your local paintshop very wealthy 😉 JB @Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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7th Jul 2023 10:05am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks for sharing, I hadn't realised that the lip was to the side. Never had my defender apart so that's useful to know. That said, I need to do the cappings too, so its no easy win for me  |
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7th Jul 2023 10:11am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17911 
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I am both amazed and somewhat depressed that the author of that article went to all the trouble of replacing the manky cappings but did absolutely nothing about the corrosion on the tub underneath the cappings before refitting the new/replacement ones. Why would anyone do that? 
I assume that he is just tarting it up to flip for a profit and is not interested in doing a proper job. Pity the poor sucker who buys it thinking it has been done well.  |
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7th Jul 2023 10:36am |
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| Lodelaner Member Since: 04 Feb 2010 Location: Lambourn Posts: 635
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It’s either Ricky Gervais or Trevor Cuthbertson. I guess he was doing it to create the article on deadline. JB
@Lodelaner Instagram Youtube greenlaning and other LR related content |
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7th Jul 2023 11:18am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3595  
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Done it on a family Defender. Yes, they do slide down, but could put a small fight as the corrosion between the ali and the steel could create a good hold. As mentioned above, care not to scratch and damage the paint on the rest of the quarter panel when sliding down. Rivets need to be sealed type, 4.8mm x 12mm (or 3/16" x 1/2"). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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7th Jul 2023 11:45am |
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| nwicki Member Since: 27 Dec 2021 Location: Stuttgart Posts: 11
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Thanks guys for that super quick answer!
 That gives me hope. I also think it could be possible with a bit of masking to not mess up the paint. But will have to paint the bracket anyways as I want the rivets to be in body colour again. Good to hear your thoughts and experience on this issue. Couldn't find anything about it in the Landy Universe out there.
@Dinnu – The single rivet in the capping needs to be removed as well right? So I need to paint that part also… bummer. I'm definitely not planning to do a Landlord special like the guy in the article haha…  ... Will order the brackets today and will see when I find the time to do it. Maybe later in the summer..
Thanks and best, Nico |
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7th Jul 2023 11:52am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3595
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All 6 rivets need to be drilled out. The hinge side has one less rivet from factory.
I left my rivets unpainted. Unsure if I will ever paint just the rivet head or not, but I can assure you that my tub and cappings are painted 200% Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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7th Jul 2023 1:47pm |
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| nwicki Member Since: 27 Dec 2021 Location: Stuttgart Posts: 11
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Looks like a stunning and neat Landy, judging it from that pic. Thanks! I'll give it a go and see what I'll be doing with the rivets. Painting the bracket without it being attached is of course much easier, but it looks like corrosion already started to spread 1/2mm to the tub so I'd need to paint a little bit more anyway.
Thanks, thanks, thanks! |
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7th Jul 2023 1:51pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1681  
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They can be removed in situ as they’ve said in the most excellent LRM arsetickle.
You can paint the heads with a small artist brush and you’d never notice. Make sure you use the right closed head rivets, you could maybe scotch brite the heads first before fitting might help the paint stick better. |
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7th Jul 2023 2:27pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17911
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Personally I'd be inclined to go properly "old school" and use solid rivets wherever there is rear access, as LR used to do originally. I'm not a big fan of breakstem fasteners. It is a little more work and takes a little longer, but you're not in a production environment where time equals money and the result looks so much nicer.
Easier to identify if your P&J ever gets stolen, too. |
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7th Jul 2023 2:57pm |
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