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| familymad Member Since: 13 Dec 2011 Location: Bucks Posts: 3466   
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Hi fella,
This was the same fault on my TD5 D2. It was a 15P engine too. Nano com gave me the info and off I went to buy the kit. Used the £50 kit and replaced the shuttle valve. It seemed to work for 7 days but no joy and the lights came back. Doing some more reading, it seems as the engine loom gets older, weird elctromagnetic interference can affect it and flick the lights on. I never got a fix but after an engine change with the used engines loom fitted, fault never came back! 1951 80" S1 2.0 1995 110 300TDI 1995 90 300TDI |
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24th Aug 2015 7:43pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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You may not have the electrical problem, it might be that the shuttle valve itself in the block may be stuck as opposed to the shuttle valve switch problem that can be rectified with a new part as you've described. With the electrical problem there can also be a problem with the pcb within the modulator assembly itself. This is where the "wire bypass" can help by avoiding the plug/socket where the switch assembly fits to the bottom of the modulator.
The good news for you if it is actually the shuttle valve itself is that there is a repair kit for the valves but it does need the modulator to be taken off whereas you can just change the switch assembly in situ. There are a few good web pages that come from America that can help you in repairing the Wabco units as they're pretty generic across a multitude of car manufacturers. Wabco themselves have a lot of information out in the public domain for the units fitted to Defenders and the like 
As for the switch assembly, I fitted one to mine about 18 months ago after getting the Shuttle Valve Switch Failure on my Nanocom and it's still fine. |
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24th Aug 2015 9:06pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
This company gets good reviews,£200 gets it rebuilt,(if it can be).The shuttle valve repair kit is very successful,again it depends on how accurate the diagnosis was.For that use a specific Lr diagnostic,Testbook, Nanocom,Lynx,Hawkeye,Autologic.
http://www.ecutesting.com/land_rover_common_ecu_failures.html Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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25th Aug 2015 12:41pm |
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| Maris Widgeon Member Since: 11 Dec 2013 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 216 
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Thanks for the help everyone ,have had issues in the past and usually a 30 minute thrash around the fields sorts the problem out. This time it seems to be a bigger problem, so will have to go a bit deeper with some tests and if nothing comes up ,then I will give the kit a go.
The MOT is not far away so it needs sorting. Thanks again, Nick. |
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25th Aug 2015 5:29pm |
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| Thor Member Since: 17 Dec 2011 Location: Didcot Posts: 446  
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Mine came on a few years ago, tried ecutesting and there's was nothing they could do with it. Ended up needing a new ABS modulator. The best value for money war a bearmach one I think. Around £1400 with 2 years guarantee.
Then it came on again 4 weeks ago....panick!!!! Turned out to be front left ABS sensor, had that sorted and came on again a week later.........front right ABS sensor. MOT in 2 weeks so will have that done at the same time. 😎 Strong people are harder to kill and generally more useful! |
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25th Aug 2015 10:11pm |
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| Hairysteve Member Since: 15 Jun 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 692 
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Hey Thor, new modulator plus both sensors, can I ask how much this has set you back?
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26th Aug 2015 6:09am |
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| Thor Member Since: 17 Dec 2011 Location: Didcot Posts: 446
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Steve,
The modulator was around 2 years ago. The two sensors are the currant problem, one I had changed 2 weeks or so ago which solved the lights for a week then they came on again due to the front right sensor, which ill have done when it goes in for its MOT and a couple weeks time. From memory; ABS Modulator - £1400 or maybe a touch more from Bearmach I think it was. The sensors, also from Bearmach were £190 ish each. A lot cheaper the oem but with the same 2 year guarantee. There is a thread in the TD5 technical section as there was a couple of us having issues the same time. Found it for you...,, http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic20998.html Strong people are harder to kill and generally more useful! |
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26th Aug 2015 9:55am |
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| Maris Widgeon Member Since: 11 Dec 2013 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 216
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An update on my original ABS modulator problem.
I have the fortune to know a really good mechanic who worked through different tests after getting the original " Stuck shutter valve"problem. He changed the shuttle valve kit which got the abs working,but the three amigos would not cancel.Bo//!!ks. Being a real mechanic he stripped the electric motor out and found that a small bearing on the end of the motor had collapsed due to it being sat in water and rusty. This is were the pumping action is achieved and the valves were also seized preventing the modulator doing its job. A £1.60 bearing later with lots of anti seize compound and it went back together and is at present working as it should. How the guy even got the thing out , I take my hat off to him and hopefully it will perform for a while, it is working better than it ever did before . The total cost has come to about £120 plus 5 hours of his time. Best price for a new modulator was £1200.00 +vat. Probably be telling you all how it has failed again in a few weeks ,but hopefully not. Cheers Nick. |
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2nd Oct 2015 6:03pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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That sounds like a good result, and yes anyone who has worked on the ABS modulator block on a Defender begins to understand all about keyhole surgery
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2nd Oct 2015 8:50pm |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1287 
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Reply deleted as question asked not relevant!!
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26th Jun 2023 5:41pm |
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