 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Seized crossmember bolts |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870   
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If all fails, drill them out (or at least drill the heads off). Torx heads allow easy centring of the drill bit.
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5th Jun 2023 12:08pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks Blackwolf.
Trying to find the most un-intrusive method tbh, in the hope of maintaining the captive nuts on the crossmember. Its only for a bit of tarting up with stainless bolts, so it it ends up needing to be drilled out then I'll leave them for the time being, knowing they'll be tackled when i have the chassis swapped. |
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5th Jun 2023 12:42pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3200  
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Did they budge just a little? What normally can happen, rust and what not on the exposed thread of the bolt would bind on the threads as you undo them a bit. The ones behind the rear wheel can be cleaned off with a wire brush (or a die), but the ones behind the fuel tank are more difficult to get to unless you remove the tank. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Jun 2023 12:57pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11240 
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You could try a better penetrating oil (which WD40 isn't) such as PlusGas but as Dinnu suggests, try and get to the backs. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Jun 2023 1:18pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Not a single micron of movement unfortunately @Dinnu.
I did spray the WD40 on the rear of the outermost ones (under the Land Rover/Defender badges) but to no avail. I used WD40 as I had a tin to hand, but as @LandRoverAnorak has said, its not really the best product for the job, so I'll have a look for some proper penetrating oil. As for the 6 under the door, if access to the rear isnt easy then I can help but feel that they may be a lost cause (for the time being). |
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5th Jun 2023 1:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870
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If you do drill off the heads, then it becomes possible to lift the body and get full access to the rusty nightmare it conceals. However if (as I suspect) you don't want to do quite that much dismantling, a further option is to screw them right though until they fall out of the back of the captive nut.
Usually the really rusty bit is the bit protruding where the sun doesn't shine between the cross-member and the body, and the thread in the nut is not too bad. If after removing the head you drill a hole in the end of the screw you can hammer in a suitable Torx bit, douse everything you can see with Plus Gas, then screw the now-headless machine screw in rather than out, until it comes right out the back (or is that front) of the captive nut. |
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5th Jun 2023 1:33pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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See if any of the local restorers or classic specialties have an induction bolt heater they can put on them for you
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5th Jun 2023 2:24pm |
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| Snowy90 Member Since: 23 Feb 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 482 
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I have found WD40 to be pretty useless for this found RP-90 to be better or as others have suggested other better quality penetrating fliuds. as said before front and behind.
You may have tried but i also find tightening the bolts even if they don't move then undoing several times generally breaks the rust bond eventually. Back and forth with the impact gun. It wouldn't take much heat to expand the bolt, in tight areas with plastic around i have used a fireproof matt to protect close by items and one of those small "creme Brulee" blow torch with good effect, dont judge and don't tell the missus where her blow torch has gone! An induction heater even better if you can track one down. Failing that as mentioned drill them out with a drill bit just under the bolt size and once the head is gone you will find either the thread winds itself out or you will be able able to chip out Good luck |
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5th Jun 2023 2:56pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks all for your ideas, will definitely be giving some of them a go over the coming weekends.
Blackwolf, you are pretty accurate in that i wouldnt want to be lifting the body.. I'm just a man with a drive, no lift or anything so that's why I was after the simplest thing to try. Out of curiosity, could it work to use the new bolt to push the old bolt out if i got the heads off of the old ones? Lord-Haggis, that's definitely something I will look into. I had assumed heat=fire and therefore burnt paintwork if the aim strayed, so this potentially less risky form of heating could be a great avenue to explore. Snowy90, I am starting to learn this over the years - WD40 is best saved for removing sticky labels from plastic products... I hadnt tried the tighten then untighten method just yet as I am down to my last T40 bit, but maybe its worth getting a couple more and giving this a go. I also have a small blowtorch - smaller even than a creme brulee one - its meant to be a gas soldering iron but it has different attachments, but it could be worth a try if i can keep it away from paint. Who thought that getting a Land Rover with my late dad's inheritence would be a good investment... oh yeah, that would be me  |
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5th Jun 2023 3:44pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16870
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No, this wouldn't work because the new screw won't be turning the old one. If only it was that easy!
It will be once it and you come to a mutual understanding of its needs and moods. It will be a demanding friend but if looked after (and treated a bit like a loved but cranky family member) it will provide rewards. Sadly one of the rewards is not having to worry about what to do with your spare cash, because you won't have any! |
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5th Jun 2023 4:48pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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These are also a good option for many landrover fittings.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/teng-tools-ttid...lsrc=aw.ds |
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5th Jun 2023 5:44pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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I thought that would be the case, you're pushing it rather than rotating it. Didnt stop me hoping though 
Very true, its much like having a dog in many respects. Drives you to despair but nonetheless holds a special place in your heart, even more so in my situation.
Fantastic, thank you. Will get them in my basket ready for the next time I checkout. Hopefully theyre more robust than the attachments I've had up until now, and the tool works well. |
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5th Jun 2023 5:51pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1756
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Do you know anyone close by with a Milwaukee 18v impact wrench ? they can provide nearly 1900N.m of impact torque as I suspect the 400N.m from your current one is insufficient. Loosen, tighten ,loosen tighten etc may break it loose after application of plus gas penetrating oil.
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5th Jun 2023 5:57pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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I’ll have a chat with my neighbour as he does Artic’ lorry trailer repairs So is most likely person I know to have one…
Thanks for the heads up 🙂 |
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5th Jun 2023 6:08pm |
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