 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Slow Clutch? (with Poll!) |
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| pedrocandrade Member Since: 30 Sep 2022 Location: Rio de Janeiro Posts: 26   
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Alright, a few updates. First, I added the bushings to the gaiter, but saw no noticeable improvement. I then saw that the oil I was using in the gearbox (Total Traxium FE 75W90 shown before) was a bit thicker at 40°celcius than the Castrol BOT 130M specs. That’s no longer available, so I bought the new one sold by Land Rover, which is Castrol BOT 328. This one has the same specs as the 130M as far as I could tell, which is also quite similar to the Syntrans Multivehicle75w90 that I saw some of you use.
Did the change yesterday and it turns out the box was overfilled as well. Had 3.7 liters in it! I added the correct 2.2 liters and saw a big improvement. When the box is at 40° celcius or warmer (checked from the bottom of the casing with an IR gun thermometer) it’s perfect. Starting at 25° celcius (ambient temp in Rio these days) I still need to sometimes revert to neutral to engage first. I can also “count to 3” after depressing the clutch and it will go in 90% of the time. There’s still the freak 10% of times where it doesn’t work at all and I need to engage 4th and slightly release the clutch to “move things around” before going back to first. Still diagnosing that. Might be clutch related. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone in the forum for the help. I wouldn’t have thought of the overfilling issue without your excellent comments. I’ll keep looking at this issue in regular maintenance and will report back with any news. |
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12th Nov 2023 4:58pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 990  
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Great insight, thanks. I‘ve just had the oil changed after 60k km (37k mls) and gear changes are even smoother now
Castrol Transmax Manual Multivehicle 75W-90, successor of the Syntrans, 2.2 litres, minus a few drops because they didn‘t tighten the drain plug correctly…  |
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12th Nov 2023 5:39pm |
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| pedrocandrade Member Since: 30 Sep 2022 Location: Rio de Janeiro Posts: 26
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Good news! I installed a new clutch from LOF, along with new master and slave cylinder and all the accessories in their kit, and the problem is completely gone!
I no longer need to wait for the whole system to warm up to be able to have clean "neutral to first" engagements at the stop sign. The gearbox works perfectly from the get go. And it's much faster too. Changes between all gears are perfect. Since I replaced a lot of things, I cannot say exactly what the culprit was. If I had to guess, I'd blame the slave cylinder. But it wasn't leaking, though. The old clutch was not at the end of its life. Just a bit worn and with the well known loose and noisy springs. So I'll never know for sure. Anyway, I'm relieved that it wasn't a gearbox issue. I also installed a LOF ExtremeSpec Output Shaft and the whole transmission feels a lot tighter. The car is a joy to drive now. |
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9th Apr 2024 1:51pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 235  
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That sounds like a good result.. I have like yourself replaced every component on my clutch system... Including the hydraulic lines..
I still get a black debris appearing in the base of the clutch master cylinder.. Nothing like as severe as it was when just replaced and changing the hydraulic lines and flexible rubber hose for a pioneer s/s line also helped, but it still appears so it can only be slave and master cylinder seals that contribute to it now.. I'd be keen to know if you notice any debris collecting in your master cylinder in a week or so.. I did post a thread about it and kept it updated for a good few months, but there was no one offering any other thoughts about it once the biological groath /water contamination had been discounted.. |
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9th Apr 2024 3:27pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 324 |
HIGHTEC TOPGEAR SAE 75W-90 S
The oil has the lowest viscosity at cold temperatures of all the gear oils I have compared, and works excellently for me. Basically, you have to shift gears with care and "put on" the gears so that the synchronisation has time.  |
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9th Apr 2024 3:36pm |
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| pedrocandrade Member Since: 30 Sep 2022 Location: Rio de Janeiro Posts: 26
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@andy63. Sure thing, I'll look into that. Does the debris get down to your clutch pedal or simply stay lodged inside the master cylinder box?
@hornet. Thanks for the tip! I recently switched oils to the Castrol BOT 130M which is the current genuine LR oil for the Puma. It has worked fine and I see no need for something with even less viscosity now. My problem was clearly not gearbox oil related. Actually, I live in Rio, in quite warm climate around 25-40º celsius. Far from the cold temperatures that would demand a lower viscosity oil. The issue I had seemed to have been connected to a faulty slave cylinder. It improved when warm, but it was not about the gearbox oil, but probably the slave cylinder getting warmer. |
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9th Apr 2024 7:30pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 235
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Cheers.. I'm just curious as mine is still getting this debris.. Which is visible in the clutch master cyl reservoir..
See attached photo of the last time I checked😩 Click image to enlarge |
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9th Apr 2024 7:49pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 19560
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Needs a good flushing, but it’s probably residual debris in the concentric Slave cylinder, so it comes back after a shorter than expected time. (After bleeding).
Happens a lot, and rubber breakdown with age, not too much to worry about though. My old Mastercylinder lasted a good ten plus years. Diesel$ Live$ Matter. ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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9th Apr 2024 8:15pm |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 324 |
delete
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17th Apr 2024 2:18pm |
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