 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma One Touch Up Down Power Window |
 
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 177   
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I appreciate that having power windows at the front might be seen as a luxury in a Defender by some.
Still, LR implementation of it is very basic, as one have to continuously push the window switch to roll down either the driver or passenger windows in full. Plus the switch for the passenger window being on the other side of the dash, I find it rather unconformable to have to bend during long seconds to operate it when I'm alone and driving (and need my two hands to steer and change gears already). In short, my 110 Puma is lacking the one touch up & down feature ! And I decided to remedy this. So here's the write up of what I did if anyone is interested to follow a similar route. A quick search on this forum revealed this has already been discussed and was possible to implement: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic48715.html I also came across this blog http://defender90xs.blogspot.com/2014/03/o...ndows.html with in depth details, however this is just overcomplicating things, and I'm willing to keep things as simple as possible. I sourced 2x WC1000 units from Autoloc (via ebay) - one window requires one WC1000 unit.  Click image to enlarge The WC1000 unit will be installed "physically" behind the center dash (close to the window switch) with some strong double sided tape and "electrically" between the window switch and the window motor, so that when the switch is pushed "one touch", the WC1000 unit will control the motor to fully roll down or up the window. Another push of the switch will stop the window from moving further if needed to open only halfway for example. The connector (C0321 and C0242) at the back of each window switch has 6 terminals connected as such from factory : Pos 1 : Ground Pos 2 : +12V Pos 3 : to motor : +12V at rest : Grounded when "down" is pressed on the switch Pos 4 : to motor : +12V at rest : Grounded when "Up" is pressed on the switch Pos 5 : unused Pos 6 : for switch light bulb
To move the window up or down, one side or the other of the motor is pulled to ground by the switch to allow current to flow. This is what is called a "negative trigger", hence I have used the "negative trigger" inputs on WC1000. Both Ground and +12V are available at the switch connector already, hence no need to route new cables, I have spliced these to feed the WC1000 unit directly. Another note is that the WC1000 unit is preset to a certain amount of force required to drive the window motors. With my defender this was not sufficient as is, the window was only moving about one mm at a time and stopping. The fix is to cut the the loop wire as printed on the WC1000 unit itself, as this will change the resistors to a higher value in the internal circuit path. Works a treat. Last advice is to test with both ignition on only (engine off) and engine running at idle, to make sure everything works as expected before reassembling. The following picture show the original installation manual that came in the box with the WC1000. Click image to enlarge And this one reflects the wiring I did on my 110 Puma, should that be of interest (with the disclaimer that I am not responsible for any consequence if you decide to follow it) Click image to enlarge Very happy with the result 
/Mat Last edited by MatLandy on 6th May 2023 10:57am. Edited 2 times in total |
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6th May 2023 9:32am |
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| andy2111 Member Since: 17 Oct 2021 Location: Kent Posts: 365  
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Impressive! Wish I knew about this when my auto electrician was rewiring my truck! TD5 hardtop to Puma inspired Poptop - my build thread
2002 110 TD5 Hardtop ¦ Full Puma interior ¦ Carpathian grey / Santorini black ¦ X-Vision-X poptop |
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6th May 2023 9:45am |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 539 
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Thanks for a great write up. The lack of one touch does not bother me but it's good to know there is an easy fix.
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6th May 2023 9:50am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 177
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BW, I would think that what you are describing is indeed possible to achieve although I have not tested it. The WC1000 has 2 terminals for negative triggers which you can use for the first switch and 2 others for positive trigger which you could use for the second switch. Note that that in this case the 2 switches will be wired differently, to either work as negative or positive trigger respectively.
/Mat |
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6th May 2023 10:47am |
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| shanecl Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: Louth Posts: 458  
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Brilliant
 , thank you for the write up, added to my basket now |
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8th May 2023 11:16am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 980
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Any UK suppliers? Peter
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9th May 2023 12:40pm |
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