 | Home > Td5 > Britpart - engine parts |
 
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 274   
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I don't have personal experience of the parts you are referring to but when it comes to critical internal engine components I would advise you to avoid 'pattern parts' and go genuine or a recognised specialist engine parts manufacturer. For peace of mind $50 is a price worth paying in my opinion.
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16th Mar 2023 1:24pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 16857 
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For ANY part I consider Britpart to be the supplier of last resort.
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16th Mar 2023 2:07pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 805 
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I agree with Blackwolf on this. They’re OK for cheap consumables that are not critical, such as a pedal rubber.
For an engine component, run a mile and buy genuine or branded OEM. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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16th Mar 2023 2:17pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4932
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anything to do with engines, you are best off getting the genuine stuff.
When i had the vvc engine in the rover metro, i bought a Copy sensor for the coolant system, they would only last so long and i had to change them, Switched to the genuine one, and the quality was night and day for a start and it lasted till i got shot of the car. Also even using cheap stuff as a last resort, I bought a crank senor for my defender as a test, and i tell you what, i don't know how they get away with quality, It caused more trouble to the point it would have thrown anyone off. The car started ok, but as soon as you applied revs to move it, the car would just cut out. Last thing you wanting is to be buying twice etc, Bleeding a rover metro coolant system isnt fun i tell you! Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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16th Mar 2023 2:54pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 4932
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I am still on the fence with none critical stuff too, because i have had rear lens melt from bearmach and i have had to repair my dash due to manufacturing weakness where the symbol thing attaches too. Anymore crap fails on me from likes of britpart or Allmakes, and i am belling them. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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16th Mar 2023 2:57pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 805
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Their quality is beyond poor, but sadly they’re the only manufacturers for certain older parts. I struggle to find genuine/quality parts for some of the specific One Ten items I’ve needed recently. Charlie
1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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16th Mar 2023 3:02pm |
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| 4RF RDS Member Since: 19 Jul 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 898  
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Genuine… or original equipment like Valeo, VDO, Bosch etc.
Good luck. 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris) 2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam) 2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX) 1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy) 1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood) 1967 MGB GT Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats. H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956) |
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16th Mar 2023 8:28pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3186  
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For a saving of 50 bucks I would not risk it.
But I fitted combustion chambers from a blue box after some considerable modifications to them to make them correct on my 19J. But that was a saving of over €300 (almost the cost of the engine before overhaul). How they will perform is something I still need to evaluate. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th Mar 2023 10:41pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3612 
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I wouldn't buy anything Britpart that was reliability, safety, or cosmetically critical, hence I wouldn't buy anything Britpart.
A search of any LR forum results in a littering of issues people have had with their stuff, real shame as they have the best LR catalogue of parts DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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17th Mar 2023 7:31am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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The penny pinching of the lower end parts is insane to me, you wonder how many hours of work have been lost, further damage caused to other components and general hassle of remove, refit, return. Yet people keep buying them.
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17th Mar 2023 9:13am |
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| Puddings 3112 Member Since: 05 Dec 2020 Location: Down South Posts: 44 |
given the fettling required to get Blue Box and other pattern parts to fit correctly with OEM, have often wondered if building an entire vehicle from Blue Box would see it actually fitting together perfectly with all the mixed alignments coming together liked a 3D jigsaw
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17th Mar 2023 11:22am |
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 110 
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Whilst I am fairly new to defender ownership, I would vote OEM as well. I did the cambelt on my 300tdi and the supplier sent me a britpart crank seal by mistake (ordered OEM) and it has leaked from the day I put it in. Now I will need to take it all apart to redo it and probably replace the belt due to oil contamination which, as others have pointed out, has cost more money and time in the long (or not so long!) run.
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17th Mar 2023 1:44pm |
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