 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Corrosion on rail above crossmember |
 
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| TomB8 Member Since: 17 Nov 2022 Location: West Sussex Posts: 117   
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I don't have experience with later models (not much with older ones either, yet!) so someone else may be better placed to answer, but it's not part no.10 here?: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...head_44863
You should be able to get the part number from lrworkshop if it isn't the link above. My understanding is that stainless is worse for galvanic corrosion, so best to use normal screws, put some grease in the holes and use nylon washers to reduce steel to ally contact |
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4th Mar 2023 11:40pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 952  
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I think your right saying no#10 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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4th Mar 2023 11:46pm |
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| peanutbob Member Since: 12 Feb 2009 Location: UK Posts: 325
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Many thanks for the replies…perfect!
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5th Mar 2023 9:31am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3544  
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Mind that is not that easy to replace that aluminum rail, as it is ‘integral’ with the tub with lots of spot welds.
Probably the source of the galvanic corrosion is the steel ange bar which connects that rail to the crossmember. I have been wanting to remove that mounting angle bar to get it galvanized and prevent the issue that you are talking about. But unsure how difficult it is with the tub in situe. Hence I have been postponing the job. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Mar 2023 9:54am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11325
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As Dinnu says, that 'rail' is an integral part of the tub and difficult to replace without at least lifting the rear of the tub up, away from the crossmember.
It depends on how bad it is but if it were mine I'd try and effect a repair in situ. This could be, for example, drilling out the existing holes to a larger diameter to remove the corrosion and then plating over with small sections of flat aluminium, pre-drilled with appropriate holes. Fix with Sikaflex and then repaint in to match and it'd be quite unobtrusive. For the bolts, on mine I've swapped them for stainless but isolated them from the aluminium with nylon washers and a dab of Duralac:  Click image to enlarge Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Mar 2023 10:35am |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 679  
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I have done the same as Darren on my 2012 and no sign of corrosion yet. I also remove the bolts once to liberally spray through the holes and between the aluminium and steel with ACF50
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5th Mar 2023 10:51am |
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| peanutbob Member Since: 12 Feb 2009 Location: UK Posts: 325
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I’ll be going for the in situ version 😂
Thanks! |
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5th Mar 2023 11:27am |
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| Cragster69 Member Since: 15 Jun 2021 Location: Scotland Posts: 225 
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I also have this problem.
Found this replacement part from YRM https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-body-moun...series-23/ and another option https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/s2s3_90_rearbody_angle_330271.htm I'm currently working my way through the rusted and seized original Torx bolts, I snapped an easy out and had to use a 6mm diamond hole saw to get through the hardened steel. I wasn't sure how easy it would be to replace once all the bolts are removed, it looks like there is an angle bracket in each corner that is spot welded and how much upward movement of the body would be needed or could be achieved. Craig. “Don't believe everything you read on the internet.” ― Abraham Lincoln www.scotgrc.co.uk |
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6th Mar 2023 3:42pm |
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| Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 659 
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It is caused by road salt and mud collecting on the upper section of the tub mounting rail and reacting the with alloy, not caused by the bolts used. Tub has to be removed completely to replace the rail, I’ve done plenty over the years.
Replacement tub mounting rails are available with only tabs where required (like the old pre td5 tabs, but on a rail), not continuous angle which prevents this corrosion from occurring. Tub below had replacement rear panels too which makes the rail replacement easier. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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6th Mar 2023 5:12pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1596 
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Mine is also going rusty. I’ve been on the website and think it’s this.
https://yrmit.co.uk/product/body-chassis-m...der-later/ If so is it a straightforward job? |
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6th Mar 2023 6:11pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3544
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You would need to lift the tub by just a little bit, but enough to maneuver the bracket from under the quarter panels. I think 10mm would suffice. I have no idea how flexible the body is (doors open) is to let you do the job however. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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7th Mar 2023 8:14am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11325
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That's the mounting rail that's bolted to the crossmember and is the part that the visible ali section under the door is bolted to. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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7th Mar 2023 9:32am |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1596
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Thought it was. That section is very rusty on mine now.
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7th Mar 2023 9:37am |
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