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JamesFrench



Member Since: 21 Nov 2020
Location: Mullion
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Keswick Green
Play in handbrake drum and oil leak
Hi all.

Started getting some creaking noises from under the my 2000 110 defender SW a couple of days ago. Only when pulling away slowly either forwards or backwards. Approx 50% of the time. Had a look under the car today hoping that it was a prop shaft UJ or the like but unfortunately not. First indication something was amiss was a fair amount of oil that looks like its been flung around from the handbrake drum, not ideal. Chocked the defender and released the hand brake, the play was now evident. When moving the prop shaft around the whole rear housing of the hand brake drum moves about 5mm in all directions.

The oil leak sounds like the rear seal needs replacing but the noise and play in the system I’m struggling to diagnose. Failing output shaft bearing or could it be in the interface between the drum and the shaft? Searched away and looked at the exploded diagrams but any knowledge from the forum would be greatly appreciated.

This is all complicated further by being away in the French alps with the defender for the winter, don’t really have a trusty local mechanic to pop by for a chat! Have a fairly well stocked tool kit so the more diagnosis/repair I can do the better.

Thanks in advance.
Post #983421 23rd Feb 2023 1:25pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
Drop Grenadier a line, he is not far away and may know of a garage you can go to Thumbs Up

So the creak might be coincidental, there is a lot that creaks on a Defender after all Rolling Eyes

Replacing the rear seal is not a difficult task, even with rudimentary tools, just need the bits. Is the oil leak actually coming from the rear seal or could it be coming from the intermediate shaft o-ring?

If the rear seal it will likely soak through to the brake shoes and out by the propshaft.
Post #983423 23rd Feb 2023 1:39pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 770

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Oh dear. I believe the aft output shaft rides on a roller bearing so any play is probably that bearing going out and taking the seal with it.

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/100623/lt230...x-pictures

I have take a Series transfer box partly apart to change that bearing (different transfer case). But I think if you are inclined to, your best bet is to get some tools and find a quiet place to take it apart in situ. You would not be the first to fix a defender on the fly. They are quite field fixable.
Post #983424 23rd Feb 2023 1:45pm
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JamesFrench



Member Since: 21 Nov 2020
Location: Mullion
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Keswick Green
Many thanks for the reply’s, I’ll definitely give grenadier a shout.

I’ve added a photo and link to video to help narrow it down. Does look like the oil is making it all the way back and out by the prop shaft. Assuming the seal is toast my thoughts turn to if the bearing on the output shaft is the culprit for the play.

https://youtube.com/shorts/07mb2tzMbBM?feature=share
Post #983431 23rd Feb 2023 2:47pm
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JamesFrench



Member Since: 21 Nov 2020
Location: Mullion
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Keswick Green

Click image to enlarge
Post #983432 23rd Feb 2023 2:51pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3141

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Looks like the drive flange nut is loose.
If it is the oil seal, then the leak would normally ge along the back plate, and not through the prop shaft nuts. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #983433 23rd Feb 2023 3:03pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3141

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Nut should be pretty tight, Front and Rear Output flanges 162 Nm 119 lbf∙ft

Depending on transfer box year, old transfer box used to have a felt washer as a seal.
Later Landrover applied loctite to the splines to seal in the oil.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/torque-specific...-box-lt230 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #983436 23rd Feb 2023 3:11pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
JamesFrench wrote:

Click image to enlarge


Yup that is definitely the output seal. Take off the prop, remove the drum and see what is inside contamination-wise.

It could be that the nut (under the proper flange) has become loose or as you fear the bearing has play in it and needs replacing. You will not know until you take a deeper look at it. It might be that all you need to do is clean the area up and tighten down the flange nut, it is a long shot, but it might do the job.


For reference;

Output bearing and flange - https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...ange_53758

Transmission brake - https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...able_53764
Post #983444 23rd Feb 2023 4:46pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 770

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Yes I agree the leak looks to be coming from the mating surface of the drive shaft, indicating the oil is coming through the splines of the flange, which in turn could be the flange being loose on the shaft.

That would be good as you can just get the correct socket and some locktite and get it all snug down again.
Post #983469 23rd Feb 2023 7:49pm
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JamesFrench



Member Since: 21 Nov 2020
Location: Mullion
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2000 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Keswick Green
Tried to get the prop shaft off on Friday but unfortunately the 14mm spanner I had wasn’t cutting mustard. After a trip to the tool shop for a 14mm and 30mm socket, (fortunately had the ratchet and extensions with me) yesterday I set to having a deeper look.

Prop shaft off and cleaned it up and had a good feel. To my immense relief the shaft felt smooth and the nut was loose! Tightened it up and the play in the drum is gone. Prop shaft back on and gave it a test and all seems good. Note to self for my return to the uk, replace prop shaft nuts and bolts, don’t think there is any chance I would get the rear ones off “in the field”.


Click image to enlarge


Thanks to all for the help. The depth of knowledge on here is incredible and invaluable.
Post #984024 1st Mar 2023 7:23am
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: aberdeenshire
Posts: 507

Scotland 
Prop shaft nuts are 9/16" AF not 14mm, close but not close enough.
Post #984037 1st Mar 2023 11:22am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4350

United Kingdom 
As htb2 says the nuts and bolts are 9/16". When you are next at the tool shop Get yourself a pair of 9/16" ring spanners and store them in the Defender.

One of the first things any DIYer should buy for their Defender. Nothing more irritating than rounding off prop shaft nuts/bolts with a 14mm spanner.

Two of these long spanners would be a good investment https://www.amazon.co.uk/GearWrench-81657-...amp;sr=1-4
Post #984050 1st Mar 2023 12:56pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 16809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
9/16" AF is notionally 0.2875mm larger than 14mm, so it really shouldn't be possibly to round off a 3/8"UNF hex with a 14mm spanner, unless I suppose you can't get it on adequately in the first place.

These are the best things I have found for the propshaft fasteners, used when necessary in conjunction with a good OE or thin-ring spanner. There are some attractions to buying second-hand though, they are not cheap.
Post #984061 1st Mar 2023 2:53pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 770

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I have one of these special elongated sockets so you don't clash with the propsfat pieces. Especially great with a impact wrench. Takes seconds

https://twinwoods4x4.co.uk/product/sealey-...-tool-1-2/

Still need the right spanner for the other end..
Post #984072 1st Mar 2023 3:55pm
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Chris86



Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 750

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 USW Chawton White
Prop
A couple of 9/16ths with some customisation is a big help.

I have one with the ring end bent at 45 degrees, and the open end ground down slightly narrower to fit in the yokes- the other one has just been made slightly narrower.....
Post #984095 1st Mar 2023 7:52pm
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